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August 20, 2011

Government in China - A Primer

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com


The Chinese system of government has three main branches: the Communist Party of China (CPC), the State Council (also known as the “Central People’s Government”), and the People’s Liberation Army (PLA). The Constitution of the People’s Republic of China guarantees the legal power of the CPC, which exercises control over the state, military and media. Functionally, the government has three arms which carry out CPC-led policy: the National People’s Congress (NPC), the State Council, and the President.

The NPC meets once a year, usually in March, and, the most recent NPC elections of members (called “deputies”) took place in March 2008, at its first meeting of the new session, officially titled the “1st Plenum of the 11th National People’s Conference”. Terms of office for each delegate are 5 years, with the next likely change of office coming in March 2013. Deputies are elected to the National Congress by each of the 23 provinces, 5 autonomous regions, 4 municipalities, 2 SARs (“Special Administrative Regions” - Hong Kong and Macau), and even the armed forces, over a three month period. The amount of delegates sent by each is related to the number of electors in each delegate’s constituency.

When the National Congress is not in session, legislative work is carried out by the National People’s Congress Standing Committee (NPCSC), which meets every couple of months. The NPCSC is made up of 150 members, elected by the NPC. The NPCSC decides how many NPC deputies are allotted to the NPC from each of the 35 electoral bodies just below the NPC (provinces, regions, etc.), but in any case, the total number of deputies does not exceed 3,000. Furthermore, a minimum of 15 deputies come from provinces and autonomous regions with small populations and ethnic minorities have at least one deputy of their own in the NPC. The Chairman of the NPC is elected by the NPCSC.

The State Council is the chief administrator of the People’s Republic of China. It is chaired by the Premier, and contains the heads of each governmental department and agency, falling under a few different categories - Ministries, Commissions, Organizations, Offices, and Institutions. A comprehensive list of all governmental bodies under the supervision of the State Council can be found here. The State Council also oversees the provincial governments, and maintains a relationship with top Communist Party leadership, as most State Council members are high-ranking Communist Party officials.

The State Council also has a Standing Committee, made up of the premier, four vice-premiers, five state councilors, and the secretary-general (not the same as the General Secretary of the Communist Party). The State Council meets once a month and its standing committee meets twice a week. The vice-premiers and state councilors are nominated by the premier, and appointed by the president with National People's Congress' (NPC) approval. The premier is nominated and appointed by the president with NPC approval. Incumbents may serve two successive five-year terms.

Most, but not all, positions of power within all branches of the Chinese government belong to members of the CPC. The CPC was founded in Shanghai in 1921, and, after fending off the invading Japanese and then defeating the Kuomintang (KMT) in a civil war, took power in 1949. In late September, 1949, the CPC along with a few other groups, held what was effectively, their first Constitutional Convention. On October 1, 1949, they proclaimed China a republic, and in 1954, had instituted the initial version of the “Constitution of the People’s Republic of China”, which guaranteed the legal power of the CPC.

The CPC is the largest political party in the world, with around 80 million members. The most powerful body within the CPC is the National Congress of the Communist Party of China, which meets at least once every five years (a different body from the National People’s Congress). The next meeting should take place in late 2012 (as the last was October 19, 2007). The congress approves changes to the constitution, and elects (only a formality as positions are determined beforehand) both the Central Committee and the Politburo (officially called the “Central Politburo of the Communist Party of China” or “The Political Bureau of the CPC Central Committee”); subsequently the Politburo Standing Committee is elected. Currently, the Politburo Standing Committee has 9 members.

The Politburo meets once a month, and consists of just over 20 members. It wields a lot of power because many of its members hold power within the State Committee, and others are high ranking provincial officials. The Politburo Standing Committee meets once a week. This committee, the most powerful, most concentrated body of power in the CPC, has generally consisted of between 5 and 9 members, and its power has varied throughout the history of the republic; it was relatively weakened during the Cultural Revolution; later, many members were ousted by Deng Xiaopeng after their protests to the government’s response to the Tiananmen Square riots in 1989.

The PLA is the third branch of the Chinese government. It unifies all air, land, and sea military operations as well as a strategic missile program. It was established on August 1, 1927 (now called “PLA day”). The PLA has 3 million members, and the army has just over 2 million itself, making it the largest standing army in the world. Technically, the PLA falls under the CPC’s Central Military Commission, although it reports to two Central Military Commissions - one run by the state and another run by the CPC, with both usually having common leadership.

The Chinese electoral system holds both direct and indirect elections - at the village level, citizens vote directly for their representatives (to participate in “village councils”), and then, each successive level of elected official elects the next highest level. Therefore, most outcomes are predetermined, making such indirect elections a formality. At each level, and most especially at the provincial and national level, the CPC exercises a great deal of control over the outcome, allowing only party members, members of smaller parties, or non-party sympathizers to hold power. The divisions of power at the lower levels are complicated, and are typically based on how each area is divided - for example, if an urban area is divided into districts, then the officials who lead each district vote for the city’s mayor. If there is no such division, then it could be a direct election.

When I started researching this piece (mostly via wikipedia, the most accessible source of data on the internet, albeit confusing at times), I knew very little about the fundamental makeup of the Chinese government. I hope that, after reading this, you have learned as much as I have. As always, I am open to any corrections or modifications which can be justified and are brought to my attention.






May 23, 2011

Yangtze River Cruise and the Three Gorges Dam Pt. 1

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com

Yantze River

I booked my river cruise about a week prior to its departure to ensure I would get my desired accommodation and schedule. We left Chongqing from a port on the Jialing River in Yuzhong, Chongqing’s central business district.



Although the travel agent, the accompanying brochure, and even the Lonely Planet called it a river “cruise”, the accommodations and hospitality were spartan. Even Kathie Lee's old jingle couldn't sell this trip! Nevertheless, I had a nice roommate and settled in comfortably prior to departure. Judging by the other cruise ships at the dock that evening, this excursion was a popular one - through the Three Gorges, and ending at their eponymous dam, with a handful of sightseeing stops in between.

The ship pulled away from the dock after sundown, and we headed east, downriver. I slept soundly until the middle of the night, when a loud boom and accompanying crunching sound woke me up - I thought it was no big deal, but when I woke up in the morning, I got the alarming news: another boat attempted a turn and crashed into us. Not exactly what I wanted to hear. The damage our ship sustained wasn’t enough to sink our boat, but it did force us to remain in port - 12 hours of travel time was instead spent fixing a needless accident. This was no pleasure cruise, for sure.

Eventually, everyone moved onto a new ship and we were on our way. I spent as much time as I could taking in the view from the top deck as we went downriver. For miles we saw various sized riverine settlements, nestled into a rolling, mountainous landscape. Some had just a few small houses and buildings, and others were larger cities with ports, able to handle different volumes of river traffic. From either side of the ship, I could see high hills and small mountains - for millions of years, the Yangtze, the world’s third longest river (the Nile and the Amazon are 1 and 2, respectively) had carved this wending route from the Himalayas out to the Pacific through some of the most remote parts of China.

I was one of the few westerners on the boat. It took getting to know Sam and Ollie, two Brits travelling together, and Virginia, a retired schoolteacher from Brooklyn, to figure out when mealtime was, and what other activities were available to us onboard. I used my best Chinese to get to know about a dozen fellow tourists - off-duty policemen, families on vacation, and even a university professor. Like me, they were here to relax and take in the sites. I spoke to a number of the tour guides onboard - the trip was part of a well-trodden path for them; what I thought would be a discussion about years spent traveling the river (interesting to me, monotony for them) turned into Chinese and English lessons, ensuring mutual amusement.

There were a limited number of things to do onboard - I spent most of my time on the top deck, watching the landscape scroll like a movie reel playing out from side to side. Many of the Chinese played mahjong, a popular gambling game, others smoked (too much, I thought, when I had to breathe it in), while others just sat on the top deck, drinking Tsingtao beer and munching on pumpkin seeds ("gua zi"), carefully breaking the shell away - a tedious undertaking which helped pass the time.

When we passed through the first gorge (Qutang Gorge), before reaching the Daning River (check out this link for an easy-to-read map), it was as if we could reach out and touch this massive rock wall, tens of stories high. As I looked downriver, two mountains seemed to converge with the bending Yangtze disappearing into the distance. The highest peaks extended far into the sky, and were either bare rock faces or green mountain sides. The pristine turquoise river butting up against a muddy brown rock face formed a stark natural color contrast.

We had a few scheduled stops, which, like cruises I've been on back in the US, were geared towards tourism, and set up mostly to separate visitors from their renminbi. Things on the boat weren't so interesting, so disembarking even temporarily was a welcome change. The most notable stop we made was to see the "Mini" Three Gorges, also known as the "Lesser" Three Gorges.

We hopped onto a different boat when we reached the juncture where the Yangtze and Daning met, and took a three hour excursion up a smaller river, passing through gorges known as "Dragon Gate", "Misty", and "Emerald". The Daning was a bit narrower, so at times it seemed that the very tall rock faces blocked out most of the sky. It was amazing to see the work mother nature had put in at the end of the last Ice Age. Nearly flat, perpendicular slabs of rock stood like towering sentries over a pristine yet powerful body of water. And to think, we still had two larger gorges on the Yangtze to pass, the Wu and Xiling, which extended even farther along the riverbanks than Qutang Gorge.

When we passed through the Wu and Xiling Gorges farther down river, the experience was similar - massive mountainsides and cliffs carved out by the river. That we would pass through the gorges was no surprise; seeing their height from close up was unforgettable. Our ship was easily dwarfed by the land masses on either side. Mother Nature had done some of her most outstanding work forcing this river through the terrain, from the highest peaks of the Himalayas thousands of miles east to the Pacific, making its way past what are now some of China's most populated cities.

Up until I boarded the ship back in Chongqing, I had spent my time either in heavily populated urban areas or on crowded high-speed trains. The boat trip, while a little perilous, got me close to some remote parts of inland China. Just days ago, I had only heard about the Yangtze and the Three Gorges. By the time we disembarked in Yichang, I was grateful to have taken in a good portion of China's natural beauty, before heading to one of mankind's most significant construction projects to date: the Three Gorges Dam.

(to be continued...)





February 16, 2011

A Tale of Three Cities - Chongqing Pt. 2

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com

Chongqing


After a day and a half, I had seen quite a few of the sites in Chongqing, which were all in Yuzhong. As I stared at a city map, though, I knew I had only seen a small part of this massive metropolis. With an eye toward my trip to the dam, I knew I didn't have to leave Yuzhong to catch the boat. I wanted to see as much of this area as possible, so I hopped in a cable car that took me over the Yangtze River.

As the car started away, I had to do a double take. On both sides of the river, running up and down its shores, I saw a city more massive than I could have conceived (of course, I hadn't yet visited Shanghai...). Before I boarded, I thought I understood the scale and makeup of Chongqing - I compared Yuzhong to Manhattan; both have rivers running along either side which eventually converge. Taking my logic a step further, the outlying areas would be reminiscent of Jersey City, Brooklyn, Queens and the Bronx, flatter with more space, fading away in the distance. I was dead wrong. Instead, I saw massive buildings rising up in all directions, a handful of bridges stretching from bank to bank of the bending rivers, and water-borne traffic off into the horizon. Highways ran in every direction through available gaps in skyscraper construction and a network of tunnels weaved through the mountainous urban terrain.

Chongqing is a frenetically busy place and, like many of the other cities I had visited, there were plans for expansion - Chongqing already has two train stations, but now there were plans to extend the subway and build additional universities and technical centers. Sometimes, when visiting a large city in the western world, one can compare the population to a small country. In this case, the massive municipality of Chongqing, with over 30 million people, is more like a medium-sized one.

Before leaving the city, there was one last thing I had to do. Up to this point, I had eaten excellent Chinese food in city after city. I learned what Chinese breakfast was all about in Changchun, regrettably missed the Peking Duck in Beijing (rookie mistake!), but I sampled some great food in Xi'an and Haerbin as well. The Lonely Planet couldn't stress this one dish enough - a fiery blend of meats and vegetables with a side of rice in case things get out of control. In Chinese it's written: 火鍋, which is pronounced ("huǒ guō"). The literal translation is "fire pot".

I'll never forget the first time I went into a hotpot restaurant - I was starving and wanted to give it a chance. I couldn't read any chinese, and I at least thought I knew how to pronounce a few simple words like chicken, beef, pork, vegetables and beer. The waitress handed me the menu, comprised entirely of Chinese characters; I couldn't read it, so I did my best to build an order on the few words I knew.

Weeks before, my teacher Ren, and her cousins from Changchun, taught me how to ask for spice. "la" is the word for spice. If you want something very spicy, you could simply say, "hen la"; a little spicy, "yi dian die la"; without spice, "bu la"; spice on the side in a small bowl, "yi dian die wan la". I wanted the oil filled wok to have a little fire to it and add spice as I wished, so I asked for "yi dian die la" and "yi dian die wan la". I tried to tell the waitress (pretty sure I was flubbing it) that no matter what she put in front of me, I would eat it. The next thing I knew, I had a 40 oz. bottle of Tsingtao an arm's length away, and a wok full of spicy red oil with mysterious contents was placed on the cooking range in the center of my table.

Then, she brought over plates of raw meat and raw vegetables, and I carefully dropped them in the hot oil. The meat was thinly sliced and the vegetables were chopped, so I knew they would cook quickly. I watched excitedly as the entire pot bubbled and the food soaked up the oil and spices. I dipped my chopsticks into the oil, and pulled up an oily, hot, reddened mass of meat and vegetables. I could smell the spices and saw some peppercorns stuck to my food, so I ate slowly, keeping one hand by my beer.

I started to get the hang of it, and my eating became more bold. The portions I grabbed became bigger, and with the increased intake of spice, I took more gulps of beer. I knew the combination wasn't the healthiest, mostly because I was coughing and I could feel my face turning red. The taste was excellent, but the after-effects were tough on my stomach. I couldn't get enough though - the fiery spice, the Chinese beer, and the exotic sensation of eating a regional dish over 1,000 years old, made this an experience I would want to have again and again.

Fortunately, the only climactic event was that I enjoyed everything I ate. From here, though, the best thing to do was hop on the subway and head back to my hostel. Sleeping off a meal like this close to a bathroom was the most advisable idea. Over the next 4 days, I would eat hotpot twice more - good for the taste buds, but rough on pretty much everything else.

One more thing I want to tell you about took place before I left.

I made my way to another hotpot restaurant (they are everywhere), but this time I had help ordering. The restaurant was less than half full, and, because westerners are so rare in Chongqing, I could feel the curious stares on me as I entered. I was in the middle of ordering (again, not having much luck), when - lo and behold! - another foreigner came over to my table and asked me if he could help translate my order to the waitress. I was grateful to have someone who could do a better job of ordering than I could, and invited Sebastien (a German) and his Chinese girlfriend, Sally, to sit down with me.

I appreciated the company, and Sebastien's helpful gesture, and from there we took the conversation straight to a global level. They both live and work in Chongqing. Sebastien works at one of the many Marriott Hotels dotted around the country, and has been here for a few years now. Sally, who speaks perfect english with a Chinese accent, works for Proctor and Gamble. Sebastien works in a "front of the house" capacity, dealing directly with incoming guests. By this time, I had seen the massive globally branded hotels (many, if not all, are somewhere in Manhattan), and had been around the hustle and bustle of the city enough to ask him a single question: "where do most of the guests come from?" His answer: China, Europe, India, South America, North America, Japan, Singapore, London, New York, Buenos Aires, Russia, and the Middle East. Basically, everywhere! He also told me that although Marriott has about 60 hotels dotted around China, there are plans to build about 60 more.

The conversation went on - I laughed when he told me his American boss informed him he had to brush up on his English if he wanted a promotion; as if his native German, good English and fairly good Chinese weren't enough already. Now, looking back, maybe they weren't.

I turned to Sally, who, although she was about 25, was aware of the "financial crisis in America", as she called it. Comparing that to what westerners call it ("the global financial crisis") tells you all you need to know about the economy in China. Sally, along with every student in China, has taken mandatory English classes in school. A small portion of the more than 100 million students in China have even taken extra English classes through private companies. Why? When she told me, the answer couldn't have been more simple: "you can get a better job if you speak English and Chinese."

She came off as articulate, confident, and aggressive and it surprised me how much she knew about America. She discussed the US Presidential Campaign of 2008, and we talked about the financial crisis and its impact on the United States and China. She told me a little about her job - part of her duties are to communicate with P&G headquarters back in Cincinnati about once a month because she oversees the distribution of P&G goods to local convenience store chains. The P&G business model is a metaphor for the economic relationship between America and China: P&G in America finances Chinese manufacturing of P&G goods for distribution to the growing Chinese consumer market, as well as to America; you can come to your own conclusion about the relative number of jobs created in Chongqing vs. Cincinnati.

I got lucky - not only was I able to have tasty hotpot again, I got to speak to a pair of people who, in a small way, represent the shifting sands of the global economy. Sebastien, a young foreigner, has begun his career in China, having almost no work experience in his home country. The company he works for has plans for massive expansion in the local market, and no shortage of opportunity for him in particular. He can't find this in Europe. Sally represents the most modern generation China has ever produced - an unmarried bi-lingual, college-educated woman who works for a major multi-national corporation in one of China's largest cities. When you hear folks talking about the "global competition for talent", Sebastian and Sally are some of the participants in the game.

I don't travel to the other side of the earth to see the proverbial "largest ball of twine." I don't spend twelve hours in an airplane seat or 36 hours sharing a train compartment with 5 other people to be able to say tell my friends I was in this place or that one, and I don't need to go to every country around the globe. I went to China to learn as much as possible about what's going on there, and how China and the Chinese people fit into the global landscape.

It's clear that China will soon overtake the United States as the world's largest economy, challenging every economic assumption we have ever made in the west, and overturning those that are wrong. The Chinese are deliberate and focused on building a better life for all who live within their borders, and, like every other young, powerful nation that has ever existed, they are committed to doing it their own way. Looking back, sitting in my living room here in New York, I couldn't believe the "success" of my trip to Chongqing, mainly because I learned so much.






February 03, 2011

A Tale of Three Cities - Chongqing Pt. 1

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com

Chongqing


China (a/k/a the "People's Republic of China" or "PRC") controls 22 provinces. Each province has a capital, and the 22 provinces together don't make up the entire country - included in the PRC are separate entities called "autonomous regions", "special administrative regions", and "municipalities". There are 5 autonomous regions (Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia, Tibet, Ningxia, and Guangxi), 2 special administrative regions (Hong Kong and Macau), and 4 municipalities (Beijing, Shanghai, Tianjin and Chongqing). To add further fuel to the bureaucratic fire, in 2005, the government via the "Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development of the People's Republic of China" initiated urban reforms, one of which was to promote the concept of five "National Central Cities": Beijing, Shanghai, Tianjin, Guangzhou and Chongqing.

I knew before I left America that I would go to Beijing and Shanghai, I thought it likely that I would go to Guangzhou, and unlikely that I would go to Tianjin. I didn't find Chongqing as interesting, but knew I could get on a Yangtze River cruise from there, and - for some reason - the Lonely Planet talked up this strange dish called "hotpot", so I figured it was worth spending a couple of days there.

I reached Chongqing by overnight train from Xi'an on a damp and overcast morning. I did my best to decipher the Lonely Planet map, but foolishly did not stay at a hostel recommended in its pages. I boarded a public bus from the train station to get to the hostel, but because of the city's layout and misty darkness, I had no idea where I was going. I thought it wise to get off the bus and resorted to an old trick I used a bunch of times already - after I got in a taxi, I called the hostel and asked them to speak directly to the cab driver. Chinese-Chinese discussion would solve the problem more quickly than me serving as a translator. The taxi driver seemed to understand the directions, and as we started down the massive, windy highway, it quickly became apparent that I had lost all sense of orientation; this was the first city I'd visited that wasn't flat!



After I got settled in to my hotel, which was in the central district of Yuzhong and overlooked the Yangtze River, I immediately headed to the nearest bus stop - I wanted to get to the Three Gorges Dam museum. I made a short climb up a long hill, and did my best to decipher the signage at the bus stop - numerous busses stop there, with arabic numerals clearly indicating the bus route above the windshield. I wanted to see how many stops I needed to pass before I got close to the museum, but my bus arrived too quickly, so I just hopped aboard. Of course, though, I couldn't tell when my stop was coming up. I looked in my Lonely Planet, and found the pinyin pronunciation for the museum ("sanxia bowuguan") and asked a woman sitting next to me. When my stop came up, this very kind woman grabbed me by the arm and led me up a long curved hill toward the impressively designed museum's facade. I would experience hospitality and the kindness of strangers again and again.



I spent some time exploring the museum, eagerly anticipating my upcoming trip to the Three Gorges Dam. I spent the rest of that day searching for good restaurants, wandering around the city, and exploring the main shopping area, near what is known as the Liberation Monument. The area surrounding the monument is one of the main tourist centers in Chongqing - there are huge hotels like the Marriott and the Intercontinental within walking distance, the subway/tram system stops here, and massive construction projects are going on nearby. This is the part of Chongqing that says to foreigners: "open for business."

The next morning, I got on the subway right by my hotel - I was headed to the other side of the downtown area, and this was the easiest way to get around; I could avoid the windy roads and hills that were so confusing the day before. I was headed to the Stilwell Museum. General Joseph Stilwell, the museum's namesake, was the commander of US forces in the China-Burma-India theater and Chang Kaishek's chief of staff in 1942. The museum is his former home and guest house for VIPs of the Kuomintang.



The Stilwell Museum was tough to find (again, winding hilly streets and passageways made the journey from the subway confusing), but it was a hidden gem. Photos and storyboards inside trace over the history from 1940s China to the present, and US involvement in the area during that time. There are also photos that tell the story of commercial transactions that have taken place in China since then - companies like Coca-Cola signed major deals in Chongqing decades after the end of WWII. Stilwell's family lived there with him for a time, and in many photos, Stilwell is the only westerner posing with local Chinese. He studied Chinese, and immersed himself in Chinese culture as best he could while commanding a US fighting force with influence all the way to Delhi. The place had special meaning for me because my paternal grandfather fought with the US Army in Burma during WWII; he certainly would have recognized Stilwell's name, if he didn't serve under him directly. Stilwell's presence there and his desire to learn Chinese was memorialized after his death - five decades after Stilwell departed Chongqing, the Chongqing Stilwell Foreign Language School was founded in the city.

(to be continued...)






January 14, 2011

A Tale of Three Cities - Changchun

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com

Changchun


According to my research, there are at least 50 cities in China that have a population of over 1,000,000. I visited 13 cities on my trip (including Macau and Hong Kong, which are not considered part of mainland China), and each one except Macau is home to over 1,000,000.

Beijing, because it is the national capital and was the site of the 2008 Olympics, is one of the two most popular (and populous) cities in China familiar to westerners. Shanghai, China's financial capital, and the site of the 2010 World Expo, is the other. But, just as their American counterparts Washington D.C. and New York are dissimilar to much of America, Beijing and Shanghai have a similar relationship with China. All four are the most international cities in their respective countries, and serve a variety of functions as municipalities the size of small nations.

Which cities, then, are more representative of urban life in mainland China? Beyond the impressive facade a foreigner sees on a quick business trip to Shanghai, or a diplomatic visit to Beijing, what goes on in the dozens of other cities which will help push the Middle Kingdom forward into the future?

I want to look at three cities I didn't know much about, if anything, before my trip. What I saw and experienced in each of them left an indelible impression on me. There are probably at least a half dozen others that could be on this list, but even months after I returned, there are three cities I can't get off my mind. Here is the first one:

1) Changchun, capital of Jilin Province with a population of just over 3 million.

Jilin Province borders North Korea, and in the 1930s partly made up the Manchu State in the Manchurian Region. Before the establishment of the Manchu State, the Manchu people had been responsible for the formation of the Qing Dynasty, the final monarchical dynasty in China, overthrown in 1911. When the Japanese invaded Manchuria in the early 1930s, they installed the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, named Pu Yi, as the nominal leader of Manchukuo. He had been dethroned decades earlier, so the Japanese promise that he would eventually be able to rule China from Changchun enticed him to rule at their behest. In the intermittent decades between Pu Yi's overthrow and his return to power, the Russians pushed their influence in the region, asserting control over part of Manchuria they had sought since the late 19th century.

In 1945, the Japanese war machine was stopped in its tracks, and by 1949, the People's Republic of China (PRC) was founded. Soon after the formation of the PRC, Pu Yi was placed in prison, Changchun remained the provincial capital, and throughout Manchuria, one can still find evidence of former Russian and Japanese presence.

Changchun was the second city I visited during my trip to China in October 2010. Because my tutor Ren's family is from there, I became attuned to the local culture as soon as her cousins James and Monica (Zhang Jian and Yang Li, in pinyin) picked me up at the train station. They couldn't be any nicer as we went straight to my hotel to check in, then to a fantastic dinner. It was a damp and chilly evening when I arrived, but I was in great spirits, grateful for companionship, hospitality, and excellent food. Right away, I was plugged in to the local culture, grateful because I knew I would benefit from the experience.

Right from the inception of the PRC (People's Republic of China) in 1949, Changchun became China's motor city. To put it in other terms, Detroit has Ford and GM, Changchun has FAW ("First Auto Works"). Around the 1950s, FAW had an electrical engineer working for them with experience in Russia's automotive industry - his name was Jiang Zemin, and he would eventually become PRC President, part of what is known as China's "Third Generation" of leadership. Today, Changchun remains China's leading automotive production and R&D center, and is known throughout the country as a steel-based industrial hub. Changchun also has ties to foreign auto makers such as Audi and Volkswagen. Over the last few decades, the city's economy has diversified, but heavy industry is still a large part of the city's economy.

As James drove me around the city, we talked about his family's past, the life he and Monica share, and about the day to day experience of growing up and living in Changchun. I'll never forget how he introduced me to Chinese breakfast food (in Beijing, I had only visited either KFC or a place aptly called "American Steak and Eggs"). He showed me where he attended university - he studied business management, and now works as a salesman for a steel company in Changchun. He took me to the outskirts of the city to see Jilin University, the university with the largest student population of any in China. We drove their Suzuki down long, wide avenues and encountered moderate traffic. I'll never forget seeing the light-rail system cross our path (looked like something you might see on Back To the Future, Part II or Star Trek), or the massive highways; both with plans for further expansion.

Much of the city was modern - the buildings were shiny and new, and the roads were clean. Because the temperatures were below freezing (in mid-October), we stopped at Wal-Mart so I could buy longjohns. It looks similar to the Wal-Marts I've seen in America, except that everything is in Chinese. They didn't accept my credit card, so I had to pay in cash.

It was a Saturday, so Monica was off teaching English to university students. Their first trip outside the country was within the last couple of years, and they went to Thailand. In spite of having little exposure to the English speaking world, we were all able to converse in English pretty easily. I visited their apartment, a spacious apartment about 5 stories up in a complex right by my hotel. It was modern in every way, and, in terms of its amenities and style, would fit in any major western city.

We visited Jilin University's medical school, where James' aunt is a biomedical researcher conducting genetic research, and passed a park, constructed by the Japanese during their occupation, exclusively for the Japanese. I can't begin to describe the excellent food we had. Hot, spicy soups to counteract the frigid weather, spicy beef and seafood, steamed bread and seasoned vegetables - we washed it all down with "pi jiu" (beer) and the very dangerous rice wine. This was all in one excellent 24 hour period.

The next day, I got lucky again: Ren's dad was in Changchun when I was visiting - he's an art teacher at a university there, and returns to the US when school is not in session. He was showing some friends around the city, and I was invited to tag along. I couldn't help it when I first met him, I had to tell him how talented his daughter is - she's been teaching me Chinese for five months, and she speaks Italian as well as English. The world needs more people like her, and I made sure he knew that.

In the morning, the group went to Pu Yi's Palace - this was where the man made famous to Westerners in the 1980s film "The Last Emperor", lived and worked under Japanese occupation. We made our way around the grounds for a few hours before being whisked away to an amazing lunch - authentic Vietnamese food; of course, in the Far East, there is no other kind.

During the afternoon, we went to a park, and saw a sculpture exhibition. Changchun is up north, and it gets chilly there; as the sun started to set on the horizon, the group headed off for a final, fabulous dinner. We went to a restaurant just off the highway - this place was essentially a massive indoor park, ideal for weddings and banquets; our group had a private lounge with a massive circular dinner table. I had gotten to know the group as best I could - a few of them spoke English and I was doing my best to speak in Chinese, but it wasn't that easy. James and Monica rejoined the group and we had another excellent meal. We each got the chance to thank Ren's dad - while eating yet another excellent meal - for his hospitality.

The next day was a Monday - James and Monica headed back to work after a busy weekend, and I tried to take care of some personal business in Changchun. I needed to get a cell phone, and make arrangements to go to Harbin by train the next day. James invited me to his office during the afternoon, and he and his wife invited me to their place for dinner that evening. I will be forever grateful for their hospitality, and told them a few things:

1) Their nation is going to special places, and it is clear that so are they.
2) I hope someday they come to New York so I can repay their hospitality.
3) I thought that when I decided to spend 6 weeks in China, I would be by myself most of the time. So far, nothing has been further from the truth. They were very engaging and helpful, and I was grateful I met them early on in my journey.

The following day, I boarded the high speed train to Harbin. It is about 150 miles from Changchun, and the trip would take me less than 2 hours.





January 05, 2011

Beijing (Oct. 11, 2010) to Hong Kong (Nov. 23, 2010)

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com

China


I landed in Beijing on October 11, 2010 - the flight from New York was about 14 hours, and the time difference is 12 hours. I left on a Sunday afternoon and arrived on a Monday night. It was an extremely long trip.

Here is a list of the cities I visited, in the order I visited them, with a few additional pieces of information:

1) Beijing (a municipality without ties to a province) - I spent four days here, saw the Great Wall, Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, Olympic Village, and tried to, but couldn't, avoid eating at KFC. There was enough English speaking and signage around so I didn't necessarily have to rely on my minimal Chinese. I was instantly impressed with the cleanliness, infrastructure, food, and hospitality; not the last time I'd be astounded on this trip.

2) Changchun (capital of Jilin Province) - my tutor's family lives here, it's about a 6 hour train ride north from Beijing. Here, I had outstanding food, and saw some interesting places like the home of Pu Yi, China's last emperor (made famous in the west by the aptly titled film, "The Last Emperor"). Nearly nobody in Changchun spoke English, so I leaned on my Chinese skills much much more. I learned about industrial China by seeing the "FAW" headquarters ("First Auto Works"), and quizzed James and Monica on their family history. One of James' grandparents worked in a lock factory, and he works for a steel company. Monica, his wife, teaches English to university students. James took me to lunch, we went to Wal-Mart (it was cold and I needed longjohns), and we visited Jilin University, which has the largest student population of any university in China. I'll restrain myself for now, but have much more to say on Changchun later.

3) Harbin (capital of Heilongjiang Province) - further north than Changchun, here I went to "Tai-Yang-dao", Sun Island Park, Qi-San-Yi, a Japanese germ warfare base far outside the city, and mainly stayed in the central tourist area, taking in St. Sophia Church and walking along the cobblestoned ZhongYang DaJie.

4) Xi'an (capital of Shaanxi Province) - Here, I saw ancient China up close. I went to the Forest of Stelae Museum, which has large stone tablets thousands of years old; I went to the Xi'an Museum, walked along the city wall, saw the "Big Goose Pagoda" and visited the Terracotta Warriors, one of the most amazing things I've ever seen. This place was made for tourism, and its relationship to the ancient Silk Road was on display all over the city.

5) Chongqing (a municipality without ties to a province) - I had the amazing hotpot dish, saw the Three Gorges Dam Museum, the Stillwell Museum (a hidden gem), and skylines all around me as I took cable cars across the Yangtze River and Jialing River.

6) Chengdu (capital of Sichuan Province) - here I saw a Panda Reserve, spent a couple of days with new friends (who doubled as my Chinese teachers), had hotpot (once again), hung out in a park sipping tea and wandering around the city.

7) Returned to Chongqing and took a cruise down the Yangtze, ending in Yichang (Hubei Province) - I took a boat trip down the Yangtze, which passed through each of the impressive three gorges, stopped and saw the Mini Three Gorges as well, and made a few other stops during our three day journey. The trip culminated in Yichang, where I took a half-day tour the Three Gorges Dam.

8) Wuhan (capital of Hubei Province) - I spent two nights and one day here, where I went to a couple of parks, one of which was along the Yangtze, had some excellent food, and then caught the train out.

9) Hefei (capital of Anhui Province) - I came to Hefei because I had been invited by friends I made in Beijing. I spent the day with Terry and his dad, and visited their family on the outskirts of town. I had excellent food at every meal, again.

10) Shanghai (a municipality without ties to a province) - I spent 5 days here and saw excellent museums, spent time on the Bund, in Pudong, went to the top of the World Financial Center, and met up with new friends who took me to an amazing Uyghur (from Xinjiang) restaurant.

11) Guangzhou (capital of Guangdong Province) - I spent three days here, saw an old military base, walked along the banks of the Pearl River, tried to see the Asian Games (lines for tickets were way too long), and went to a couple of museums. This was my last stop in mainland China.

12) The Special Administrative Region of Macau - I spent two days here (thanks Liz!), saw some cool museums, surveyed the Portuguese colonial era architecture, and walked on the floors of a few of the giant casinos there, before catching a ferry to Hong Kong.

13) The Special Administrative Region of Hong Kong - I stayed in Kowloon, but made my way all over the city. I went to museums, a wildlife reserve, and even a beach. Of course, the food I had was excellent - I love Dim Sum.

My return trip to the US was from Hong Kong, through Tokyo and back to LA. I stopped in San Diego to see my sister before returning to New York on the Monday after Thanksgiving, 2010.






December 23, 2010

Preparation For My Trip to China

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com


On October 10, 2010, I left New York for China, with a plan to return to the US just before Thanksgiving. I'd been paying attention to the Chinese economy for years, finding it difficult to ignore the growth numbers coming out of there and wanted a closer look. About 6 months prior to my trip, I gave China more attention - I took Chinese (Mandarin) lessons, read up on cities other than Beijing, Hong Kong or Shanghai, got my visa, and started to network, hoping to make connections in China before I got there.

Just like I had for India, I was able to rustle up a few contacts to help me get a sense of what I was getting myself into. I sought advice on the food, climate, transportation and accommodations. I had a ton of questions across a variety of topics: "Were the cities really that big and crowded?" and "What is the attitude towards foreign tourists?", all the way to "What do Chinese people eat for breakfast?". I read everything I could get my hands on from the decades old Will Durant book "Our Oriental Heritage" to the months old "Lonely Planet: China". I learned as much as I could, but in retrospect, it was the tip of the iceberg of information about this massive, modern AND ancient society.

I wanted to get an idea of how the nation worked - was the economy as impressive as the outside world thought? How do Chinese cities compare to others? How much does its millennia of history affect modern China? What is it like in a nation of over 1 billion people? What is it like being on the fastest trains in the world?

As I was contemplating these questions, I was also thinking of my itinerary - I broke the cities I was interested in visiting into two categories: "must-sees", and "possibilities".

Here are my "must-sees":

1. Beijing - capital city, seat of power for the CCP, and home of Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, and access to parts of the Great Wall

2. Shanghai - China's crown jewel, the home of international business in China, its most populous city at the mouth of the Yangtze River, site of the 2010 World Expo and Pudong, the newly constructed business district on the eastern side of the Huangpu River.

3.) Xi'an - the eastern terminus of the land-based Silk Road, home to the Terracotta Warriors, and a city wall surrounding its city center.

4. Guangzhou - the third of China's three "Tier One" cities, at the Pearl River Delta, home to the 2010 Asian Games, and a major center of Cantonese culture in southern China, very close to Hong Kong.

5. Macau - the gambling hub of China, outside the mainland territory (its official name is "The Special Administrative Region of Macau), and a connection to Europe via 16th century Portuguese colonialism.

6. Hong Kong - the Chinese city with the largest amount of western culture of any city in China, a collection of European, American, and Australian white-collar workers, south Asian immigrants mainly from the Phillippines, Thailand and Indonesia; uniquely Cantonese cuisine; corporations from all around the world employing workers from all around the world; all this and only about 20% of its landmass is considered urban.

7. Changchun - my tutor's family lives here, it's the "motor city" of China producing automobiles since the 1950s, and is in the Manchurian region, which borders North Korea on one side and Mongolia and Russia on its others; it's the infamous home of China's last emperor, Pu Yi.

These made the list of possibilities*:

1. Harbin - farther north than Changchun, but seemingly has more for tourists - St. Sophia Church, the Annual Ice Festival, and a history of European, Russian and Japanese immigrants.

2. Datong - it's close to Beijing, but from here I'm able to see an unmaintained section of the Great Wall

3. Tianjin - very close to Beijing, but more closely resembling Shanghai, it's a special economic zone facing Bohai Bay and the Yellow Sea. The Lonely Planet sizes it up as having over 40 million people.

4. Chongqing - a major inland city on the Yangtze River, this place is famous for Sichuan food, most notably a fiercely spicy dish called "hotpot". It's also a launching point for Yangtze River cruises which bypass the Three Gorges Dam and end in Shanghai.

5. Chengdu - notable in ancient history for the 3,000 year old Shu kingdom and its position along the southern Silk Road, it is now home to a massive Panda Reserve

6. Wuhan - a massive industrialized city downstream from the Three Gorges Dam, it is one of China's major inland cities and the capital of Hubei province.

7. Nanjing - just outside Shanghai, this was China's capital in the early 20th century, and is also the location of the most vicious attacks by the Japanese in mainland China during the 1930s.

*there were numerous others, too long to list here

Beyond my arrival and stay in Beijing, the route was open-ended. Generally, I thought it wise to go north from Beijing first, then head southwest, then east, then south, ending in Hong Kong. Weather was really the major factor in that decision, and the climate is very similar to the United States - I wanted to head north before it got cold, and be in the south around the early part of Chinese autumn.

I didn't visit a travel doctor - the climate wasn't tropical and I had most of my vaccines up to date anyway. I got my Chinese visa after a little back and forth with the embassy (was this just a preview of the scrutiny I'd be under?), and I arranged all my personal affairs here as best I could. I made sure to bring an umbrella, a winter coat, as well as a computer and cell phone - it's not 1910, it's 2010 and from what I understood these cities have adopted modern technology.

I packed two bags, headed off to JFK, and although I prepared, my experience with overseas travel kept telling me I had no idea what I was in for.






October 07, 2010

An Attempt to Learn Chinese

By Red Sox Steve
VagabondGuru.com


"The world is my country and science is my religion."

- Christiaan Huygens, 17th century Dutch astronomer and physicist.


This one isn't about science, although China has plenty of that. Huygens, a forward-thinking man of his era, is telling us that each part of the world has something to teach mankind. My trip to China gives me the opportunity to read and hear Chinese and to learn about one of the world's most populous nations. Chinese is the most widely spoken language in the world, and is more popular than the next two (English and Spanish) combined, according to the CIA World Facebook. My native language is English, and I have a few years of experience with Spanish. In anticipation of my upcoming trip, though, I thought it would be a good idea to learn as much Chinese as possible.

I had no interest in spending hundreds of dollars on Rosetta Stone or Pimsleur. I wanted to learn from a real person - somebody with ties to China who, like nearly all immigrants, balances the dual demands of one language inside the home and another outside. After all, my goal is to be like my teacher: multi-lingual. In May 2010, I found a tutor, Ren - an NYU undergrad who arrived in America with her parents 10 years ago. Her roots are in Changchun, a city in the northern Chinese province of Jilin, and here in the US, she calls Flushing, NY her home. Ren came to me through her friend Amy, and Ren's positive attitude and interest in teaching instantly had an affect on me. I knew I needed someone that could challenge me. Although Ren had a full time job, she was up to the task of meeting a couple of times a week.

For the first few weeks, I was trying to learn sounds and symbols; only when they were mastered, could I move on to words, phrases, and then sentences. Early on, I had to watch videos like this one:




I made flash cards and, most of all, practiced. When Ren and I would meet, I would sit there dumbfounded as she asked me questions, speaking more rapidly than my brain could process. I shot back confident glances, though, when I would tell her that "zai na li?" means "where are you?" or that "gou" means "dog".

At first, she would ask me what topic I wanted to cover and would bring the related vocabulary the following session. I wanted to cover subjects like time, transportation, restaurants and hotels - memorizing how to say waiter ("fuwuyuan") or single room ("dan ren fang jian") came to me through drilling. There was a catch, however.

What I was doing was reading from flash cards with english characters on them, which is not how Chinese is understood by the vast majority of people. Over the last few centuries, there have been attempts in China at "romanization" where Chinese words are assigned roman characters. The latest attempt took root just after the People's Republic of China was formed in 1949 and the words are called "pinyin". This video above, for example, contains only pinyin.

I wanted more of a challenge, though, and decided to adjust my trip-related curriculum. I wanted to see how good I could get at reading and writing characters. Ren would show me how to write some simple things like "Hong Kong" or "five", and then we started working on sentences like, "I am riding in an airplane from New York to Beijing" or "I want to see five cities in China: Beijing, Shanghai, Chongqing, Xi'an and Hong Kong." Practice makes perfect so I followed her lead - she would show me how to write the characters step-by-step and I would spend hours copying - doing my best to memorize the correct sequence of dots and dashes. I briefly attempted to read the Chinese newspaper ("Sing Tao"), but it took entirely too long to look up the characters in the Chinese dictionary.


A Chinese Karaoke Game with Pinyin


Ren and I reverted, however, to children's books - we went to the Flushing Library, and took out "The Ugly Duckling ("Chou Xiao Ya"). The book had pinyin and Chinese characters, which was perfect because although I could read pinyin, at least I could get a sense of what the corresponding Chinese characters looked like. We worked from this as our curriculum for the last few weeks leading up to my trip.

My Chinese needs a lot of work - I need to continue to put time into it if it's going to be of any use. I know that being in China is going to greatly improve my Chinese skills - hearing the pronunciations, different dialects and, most importantly, getting it all within the context of Chinese culture and society is the easiest way to get better. Ren and I have been through many iterations in my learning, and the progress we've made is evident. Because it's so widely spoken around the world and because I want to learn how to communicate effectively while I'm over there, I know it's going to take a lot more work. I also cannot wait to use it; I'm sure that the little bit I know will be a great help to me during my trip.






June 12, 2010

India - Holi and Goodbye!

By Red Sox Steve

Delhi

The overnight Rajdhani Express (#2951, runs every day of the week) was an excellent trip! I was in 2AC/Sleeper, which meant I had a reserved seat in a shared, semi-private, 4 person compartment that turned into a bunk at night (blankets and pillows provided). The food was tasty and served promptly, the automated announcements were a nice touch, and, most importantly, we kept to the schedule. It was hard to believe this was my transition home - since I left JFK a month ago, each destination was new. Up to now, everything I had learned and discovered was still yet to be, but now I was returning to the one place that was familiar - New Delhi. Even though this city of over 10 million was essentially the same, my understanding of India had improved by leaps and bounds.

When I arrived a month ago, I stayed in a section of New Delhi called Connaught Place; wanting something new this time, I found a place in another area, called Paharganj. I got off the train, and it was only a short walk from the station to my hotel. Little did I know, though, what I was getting myself into.

When I arrived a month ago from New York, I was more of a tourist than an explorer - I had hired a car and driver to take me all around the city; we covered a lot of ground, and I saw the popular sights. Now, things were different. My confidence and knowledge were higher, and the unique experience of being somewhere familiar in a foreign country was both an adrenaline rush and an ego boost. No worries, though, after I got settled in at my hotel, I wandered around and quickly got lost... :)

I decided, in spite of being slightly unaware of where I was going, to adhere to my itinerant ways - it was a Sunday afternoon, and the pedestrian and foot traffic was light. I made my way to Connaught Place, mainly to see if I could find my way around, get a newspaper, have lunch, and maybe go to the movies. Unfortunately, there was only one movie playing which didn't interest me, so I got my paper, had some Thai food, and headed back to the hotel - sure, there were some things I wanted to do in Delhi, but I just wasn't up to it. I spent an afternoon in the internet cafe, catching up on uploading photos and taking it easy. Besides, it seemed like many of the local businesses were closed, further reducing activity on the streets.

When I made it back to my hotel in time for dinner, I got some surprising news: the next day, my final one in India, was the Holi festival. Holi is predominantly a Hindu & Sikh festival, with a variety of religious origins, involving the passage into spring. One of the primary rituals performed during the observation of this holiday is the throwing of colored powder and water balloons on everyone you see. In other words, I knew that I was going to have one heck of a day just being out on the street! This helps explain why on Sunday, which was the first day of Holi, many stores were closed; on Monday, even more shops had shuttered... except for those that sold the bags of colored dust everyone wanted to smear and throw over everyone else.

The next morning, after a shower and some breakfast, I wandered out of my hotel - THWAP! - a water balloon flew right by me and exploded on the street. There were people throwing dust at each other, wishing each other a "Happy Holi", and smearing gobs of yellow, green, purple, blue and red dust all over each other's clothes, bags, faces, and hair. I wasn't happy taking on the role of innocent victim - I wanted to "play Holi" (as that is what it is called) and find others to paint with my dust.

Paharganj is made up of both wide, straight alleyways and windy, narrow ones. Four to five story buildings line each alley, and if you look on the ground, you can see puddles and splash marks... which means children (and adults) are lurking on the balconies and rooftops, waiting for their next target. I meandered around, intent on avoiding balloons, but had no illusions: I bought these bags of dust for a reason and didn't want to have them at the end of the day. I wasn't the only tourist getting in on the fun. Everyone on the street was going in different directions, trying to avoid the roaming bands of children intent on cornering some poor soul. I had to keep a look out above me, or I'd get hit with a water balloon or get a bucket of water poured on me.

I thought just a day's notice before I would get covered in dust and water was shocking enough, but then I saw the unsuspecting droves of tourists departing the train station. They were playfully chased by kids, and, as you can probably imagine, were not too happy about it. The ones that submitted to their situation managed a smile and soon got covered in powder and water balloons. I walked around for a few hours, taking pictures, exchanging greetings and hugs, and it was hard to wipe the smile off my face. I was thrilled at the experience of seeing how such a fun and important holiday is celebrated by nearly everybody right out in public.

I ended up meeting a few other foreigners - a Brit, a Canadian and two Japanese. We relaxed by a functioning spigot and got to know each other as we did our best to clean our arms and faces. After seeing kids pelt each other with water balloons, police trying to disperse unruly groups of young boys, and taking photos of everything I found interesting, humorous and symbolic, I headed back to my hotel.

The sun was going down. I managed to scrub myself off, change into fresh clothes, and have a meal. These were my last moments in India before my trip home. When I arrived four weeks before, the entire country had been abstract and theoretical; now, sitting in a restaurant with my soda and vegetable fried rice, India, over these weeks, had become real and experiential and my first lesson was at an end.






June 11, 2010

Sights in an Indian Slum

Dharavi



May 18, 2010

India - Slumdog Millionnaire!

By Red Sox Steve

Mumbai

The train trip started at Howrah Junction in Kolkata at 8PM on a Monday night, and only a few minutes after its scheduled arrival time, it pulled into Lokmanyatilak Station in Central Mumbai... at about 6 AM on Wednesday morning. After the train trip from Tundla to Varanasi, my experience on each trip improved steadily - looking back, this was a combination of my increased understanding of the trains and the fact that after such a harrowing initial experience, there was nowhere to go but up for the railway system! I found myself more relaxed each time, and thought the entire experience (food, minimal delays, and accommodations) was smoother as well. Arriving nearly on schedule after an almost 2000km train trip, I couldn't have been more impressed with the Indian Railway Company - they had redeemed themselves!

The sun hadn't yet come up when the train arrived, which made it even more difficult to get my bearings. I knew my hotel was close to a prominent Mumbai landmark - the busiest train station in Asia, which was also one of the sites of the Mumbai terrorist attacks of November 2008, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a filming location for Slumdog Millionnaire... the train station is called Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) - based on its long name you can probably understand why everyone just calls it "CST". :) I was staying in South Mumbai, in an area called "Fort" aptly named for the now demolished fort that once stood there. I hopped in a cab and we were off - the driver took me straight to CST, and after asking a few folks for directions we finally made it to the hotel, and I was able to get settled.

As the workday started for millions of Mumbai's residents, I made my way south on foot. The morning was cool and the sidewalks were still pretty empty. I made my way down Bhagat Singh Marg, and over to St. Thomas' Cathedral, an Anglican church built by the British. It has a beautiful exterior and interior, with marble statues and engraved elegies throughout the inside of the cathedral. After getting permission from the security guards, I went inside, snapped a few photos and continued on. Continuing south just a few blocks, I made my way towards one of Mumbai's tallest buildings, the BSE (Bombay Stock Exchange). There was a heavy security presence and a heavy media presence there - as I started snapping photos, I was quickly approached by a policeman, and asked to stop. I wasn't surprised. The Indian economy is booming, and, with Mumbai and the state of Maharashtra being the site for recent terror attacks, I knew to expect heavy security at every major destination in the city.

I went a few blocks west and was instantly surprised to see a bright blue building among many drab looking structures. The building was protected by a small, well-armed and well-fortified police force. I knew this had to have some relationship to the November 2008 terror attacks. I later found out that two victims of the attacks were Rabbi Gavriel Holtzberg and his wife Rivka. The Rabbi led services at this building called the Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue.

Other institutions in this part of the city, like the High Court and the University of Mumbai, had a distinct Gothic quality to their exterior; they are in excellent condition and are well-protected by security. I continued to meander around the streets while the weather was still cool and the foot and auto traffic still sparse, and came to a large park surrounded by a fence. The park is called Oval Maidan and is surrounded by Mumbai skyline. Because the weather was excellent, the park was full of young cricketers - multiple games were taking place from one end of the park to the other; one of the first signs of life I witnessed in Mumbai. I made my way around the edge of the Maidan to an open gate, crossed along the pedestrian path that went right through the middle of the park, snapped a few photos, and headed back, continuing east towards a section called Churchgate.

I wandered around a few streets, before stopping for a quick break at a coffee shop along Maharshi Karve Rd (at the western edge of the Maidan). Here, I was just south of Churchgate station, one of the two southern terminii for Mumbai's intra-city rail lines. Foot traffic was increasing as people poured out of the station. I wanted to avoid the growing crowd, so continued east along Veer Nariman Rd. to Kilachand Chowk, a three-way intersection that stops at the Arabian Sea. There is a seawall, fortified by large stones (each in the shape of huge thimbles), that runs the length of the coast, as far as the eye can see.

It was getting hot. I was as far south in India as I would go on this trip, and I wasn't acclimatized at all. I had been watching the weather for a few days before I got there, and knew these would be the hottest days of the entire trip. I stopped for a quick pizza (familiar, tasty, indulgent) before making my way to an internet cafe with air conditioning, and then back to my hotel. I fell asleep right after dinner and a shower. What I had planned for the next morning would be something I would never forget.

Back when I was leaving Agra, I waited for hours for my coming train, and during that time, I befriended a traveling British couple who advised me of "Reality Tours and Travel"."Reality Tours and Travel" is a non-profit organization located in Mumbai that provides tours of the largest slum in Asia, called Dharavi. I made a mental note, and as I got closer to Mumbai, I made a reservation with them for a 1/2 day tour.

The group met at Churchgate station the next morning, hopped on a train, and made our way to Dharavi. I had gone on a favela tour when I went to Rio de Janeiro, which was shocking, informative, and humbling; in that sense, I had an idea of how this experience would make me feel, but no clue exactly what I would see, or what I would learn. Our tour guide made a couple of things clear before we started: no photos were allowed, and we had to stay together; we are allowed to be there as outsiders because Reality Tours and Travel obtains police permission first.

Dharavi has existed as a slum for decades. It was a swamp up until about a century ago, and was filled in after the construction of a dam in the area. The fishermen moved out and laborers from rural Gujarat moved in. Pottery and tannery were two main industries in Dharavi's early days as a settlement and gradually more and more migrant workers began to populate the area; the population today is around 1 million, and is teeming with a variety of industries. We saw the relatively new metals, plastics, and cardboard recycling plants as well as the potters and tanneries that continue to operate in the area. Make no mistake, though, the area is very poor - it is extremely dirty, sanitation is woefully inadequate, and even though the industrial part of Dharavi produces almost $700 million in products per year, working conditions are very dangerous due to a lack of safety standards and an abundance of pollutants.

Dharavi is huge, and although the group wound through narrow alleyways and climbed up to rooftops, there was no way we would cover the entire area in three hours. We saw schools, mosques, bakeries, homes and markets all within this massively populated area, and were thus able to briefly expose ourselves to what life is like in the biggest slum of one of the world's largest cities.

Dharavi was only one of the highlights of my time in Mumbai - over the next few days, I made my way to Colaba (a Mumbai district south of Fort), and was able to see the Taj Mahal Hotel & Tower along with the Gateway of India across the plaza, both overlooking the Bay of Mumbai. The docks here served as a launching point for boats taking tourists across the bay to the Elephanta Caves, where I spent my last afternoon in Mumbai.

All around India, and even as far west as Afghanistan, Buddhists had been carving likenesses of the Buddha and other religious symbols into caves for centuries. In the case of the Elephanta Caves, some historians estimate that the carvings date back to the 5th century AD. Elephanta Caves, on the aptly named Elephanta Island, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and are now maintained by the Archaelogical Survey of India. The trip there was incredibly relaxing. The gentle waves of the bay helped me drift off to sleep while the boat crossed over to the island. From the docks, it was about a 15 minute walk up to the caves.

There are a series of five individual caves which make up the site. When I first entered, not only was I impressed by the detail in the carvings, but also the depth of the cave. The area that was dug out could have fit a little league baseball field! Not only were statues carved into the walls, but there were huge columns supporting the roof of the cave as well. Inside, there were statues carved into almost every wall, and multiple free standing figures (lions, standing Buddhas) throughout the caves. The first two caves after the entrance are the most detailed and best preserved, while the remaining caves show a lot more wear and are much less elaborate. Overall, this is a must see - these caves, along with the Ajanta caves and the Ellora caves (both in Maharashtra) represent some of the earliest works of the Buddhists, and trace back Indian history over 1,000 years. It's hard NOT to be impressed!

Before I left Mumbai, I also saw the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya. It is an impressive museum in downtown Mumbai, which contains everything from ancient sculptures and coinage to models of ancient settlements, the Sir Ratan Tata Art Gallery (mostly European Art), and even some Christian relics. Outside of my excursion to Dharavi, I spent most of my time in Mumbai walking around downtown. On my last day, in the early afternoon, I made my way to the train station for my final train trip - the Rajdhani Express, an overnight, 15 hour trip.





May 17, 2010

India - Kolkata!

By Red Sox Steve

Kolkata

The last mega-city I was in before Kolkata was Delhi. Don't get me wrong - Jaipur, Agra and Varanasi all had the feel of large cities - tons of traffic, populations well over a million people, busy train stations, and multiple lodging/food/shopping options. But the mega-city triumvirate (Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai) is different. These places are even more massive, chaotic, crowded, and intimidating to a novice like me; having been in multiple cities provided me with a basis for comparison. With the amount of time I would spend sitting in traffic to travel a short distance lugging my heavy backpack, I had to make sure I was going in the right direction after I got off the train.

Kolkata is the easternmost major city in India; as I was walking through the train station, an electrifying thought made me laugh out loud: this was the farthest from home I'd ever been. I had to travel east to get to Delhi from New York, and east again to make it from Delhi to Kolkata. I had covered a lot of ground at this point, also realizing I was now closer to the end of the trip than the beginning - it was a psychological turning point in my journey more than anything else.

For me, thoughts of this city instantly evoke abject poverty and Mother Theresa - that was the only thing I had heard about Kolkata, and I knew I had a lot to learn. First, though, I had to get to my hostel; after looking at a map and asking a couple of folks, I surmised that the easiest way to get from Howrah Train Station, over the Hooghly River and into a section of Kolkata called Chowringhee, was to take the bus. After checking out the Lonely Planet to confirm all this, I made my way through the extremely busy train station and out to the bus park. I hopped on a bus, which had to slowly wind through a ton of traffic, and, with the help of a couple of passengers, was able to make my way to the hostel.

Kolkata, including its suburbs, has over 15 million people. The streets are filled with cars, motorcycles, auto-rickshaws, busses, trucks (and even a trolley service in some sections) while various vendors and pedestrians crowd the sidewalks. The neighborhoods we passed had plenty of evidence of the poverty and neglect widely associated with Kolkata; on the other hand, I was on a bus full of people on their morning commute headed into parts of the city like BBD Bagh.

I found my hostel, in Chowringhee on Royd St. I checked in, unpacked, got some food and took a nice hot shower - the best feeling after an overnight train ride! It was hot here, and I was tired but I decided to head out anyway; I only had a couple of days here and thought it wise to use the daylight and crash at night. I immediately looked in the Lonely Planet to see which sites were closest to me, and found that Missionaries of Charity was a short walk away - this was where Mother Theresa lay entombed; it is a functioning charity whose work continues to this day. I made my way east, avoiding the trolley (which scared the daylights out of me when I first saw it) and other traffic, making my way down the crowded, winding street, before making a left onto a main drag.

I quickly approached the Missionaries of Charity building and went inside. It was quiet and there were nuns wearing white habits, exactly like that worn by Mother Theresa. After quickly looking around to make sure it was OK to enter, I made my way to Mother Theresa's tomb. It is a large, white marble structure, laid out in the middle a room on the ground floor. There were only a couple of other visitors there, so I was able to take my time, snapping as many photos as possible. The tomb was adorned with flowers and photos, and there was also a large painting of the canonized nun next to the tomb. I'm not spiritual, but I am curious, and was in awe that I was in the same room as Mother Theresa's body.

There are few places a tourist can go once inside the mission, so after spending a few minutes there taking photos and looking around, I was satisfied I had seen all I could. I made a donation to the charity (the nuns were eager to solicit the tourists), and headed back out. It must have been the fatigue of traveling overnight, or maybe the heat, or maybe the hustle and bustle around me... I was very tired. I meandered back to my hotel, and, although I had the rest of the afternoon to explore, I found it much easier to rationalize a long and necessary nap. The city would have to wait.

The next morning, I headed south down Jawaharlal Nehru road from my hotel towards the Victoria Memorial. On the way, I passed statues of both Indira Gandhi and Nehru, before coming to a magnificent structure dating back to the colonial era: St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's was built in the mid-19th century, and is the first Episcopal church on the sub-continent. According to various travel guides, it incorporates British, Portuguese and French styles, and inside colonial families are honored with marble statues and memorials.

Just down the road from the Cathedral is the Victoria Memorial, a large marble structure built in the early part of the 20th century to memorialize the deceased (1901) Queen Victoria. Although it evokes thoughts of a European government building, its architecture is not exclusively European, as it incorporates some Mughal elements, like the large curved domes at its corners. Its construction was funded exclusively by revenue from the British Indian states and private individuals, mainly to curry favor with the crown. It is surrounded by majestic gardens and lawns, expansive reflecting pools, and, in the pathway that leads to the main entrance a monument depicting a seated Queen Victoria.

Inside the memorial is a museum containing art from the colonial era, and, directly in the center of the main hall, a marble statue of a standing Queen Victoria. I was not allowed to photograph anything inside the memorial, so to recall specific paintings months later is a bit challenging - however, there are pieces depicting both British and Indian dignitaries as well as scenes of historic Indian conflicts and royal visits.

For me, though, the best part of the museum was the exhibit on Kolkata's history. Like so much of India, Kolkata has been inhabited for about 2,000 years. Before the European powers arrived (British, French, Dutch & Portuguese), the area was occupied by three small villages. Kolkata became the headquarters for the British East India Company in 1690, and thus the seat of colonial power for over two centuries. Mostly because of its exclusive contact with Europe throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, it also became a center for culture and political movements throughout British India; Kolkata was the flashpoint for the Indian Revolt of 1857, and one of the earliest locations to adopt the Indian independence movement.

After independence and partition, however, droves of rural dwellers descended upon the city. Refugees went in both directions as Hindus headed for Kolkata, and Muslims sought sanctuary in the new nation of East Pakistan (Bangladesh in 1971). Furthermore, because of famine, hundreds of thousands of rural laborers continued to move into the city looking for work; for the first few decades after Partition, poverty in Kolkata continued to increase. In 1950, Mother Theresa started Missionaries of Charity in Kolkata, and continued to serve the poor for 5 decades until her death in 1997. Today, Kolkata has massive numbers of poor and underserved, but, like most of India, its economy is buttressed by the emergence and rapid growth of industries like Information Technology.

I spent the entire morning around Chowringhee and inside the Victoria Memorial, then decided I wanted to head back north, into the busier and much denser section of Kolkata, BBD Bagh. The colonial imprint here runs fairly deep - both the Writers Building and the General Post Office here were built during British occupation; the post office building was constructed over the site of the first Fort William, a military installation constructed by the British. I also saw Eden Gardens, a small park which is home to a Burmese pagoda and a number of Buddhist statues. Although I spent time at the Indian museum, I don't recommend it - many of the exhibits are poorly displayed and maintained.

After two days in Kolkata and a quick trip on a rush-hour subway to break my itinerant tendencies, I packed my bags, and went back the way I came. I hopped on a bus that took me back over the Hooghly River bridge to the train station ( (I found out at the train station that I forgot my sandals, but if I went back for them I would miss my train). I was about to board a train that would take me directly to Mumbai... a trip that would last about 30 hours.






May 07, 2010

India - Under the Bodhi Tree

By Red Sox Steve

Bodhgaya

The train ride to Gaya was relatively quick and easy, but still late; if you've been reading all about my trip, you'll understand why I appreciated it so much. My ultimate destination was a town neighboring Gaya to its south, called BodhGaya, which has no train station. Therefore, all who want to visit Bodhgaya and are going by train, head to Gaya, and take an autorickshaw for an hour or so ride. I found a place to get some food after settling in, checked my email, made a few calls and went to bed.

Bodhgaya isn't very large. Outside of tourism, there is no commercial activity there, and only a few roads. After being in noisy, crowded cities for a couple of weeks, the silence around me was deafening. One main street was lined with restaurants and a few hotels and on the way here from Gaya, I passed a military installation - there is lots of extra space to go around. If it's so small, and there is so little to do, why does it get visitors from around the world, coming in droves to spend days, weeks, months or even years here?

In 623 BCE ("Before Common Era"), in Lumbini, Nepal, a Kshatriya prince named Siddhārtha Gautama was born into a royal Brahmin family. When Gautama was 29, he wanted to experience life beyond the palace walls where he had spent his upbringing. During the early part of his exploration of the outside world, he found that life for his subjects was unpleasant and depressing - he saw death, disease, aging and begging for the very first time. Because the prince was so disturbed by these things, he sought to escape his kingdom and live like a beggar. After practicing under teachers who exposed him to the extremes of self-indulgence and self-mutiliation, he sought an intermediate state of being, which came to be known as "The Middle Way". He had become emaciated throughout his journey, and, while seated under a tree to rest, was offered food from a woman in the village who had mistaken him for an answer to a prayer. Gautama stayed under the tree for 49 days, until he had attained Enlightenment, and came to be known as the Buddha (the "Awakened One" or the "Enlightened One"). This tree is in Bodh Gaya and is known as the Bodhi Tree. Due to its Buddhist significance, a temple called the Mahabodhi Temple was constructed next to it and is the primary desination for Buddhists from all over the world.

I woke up the morning after my arrival and headed out - my hotel was a short walk to the temple, so after getting something to eat, I made it there in no time. I paid the admission fee, took off my shoes at the entrance, and went right in. Immediately, I was struck by the detail on the outer walls of the main temple. There are carvings and designs starting just above the base all the way to the top, and the entire structure is made of brick. The temple was constructed in the 5th century CE, after having been designated a sacred spot around 250 BCE by the Gupta emperor Asoka; due to decay and disrepair over the years, it had to be restored in the 19th century, by the British. Inside the temple, there is a shrine to the Buddha - like many depictions of the Buddha around the world, he is seated cross-legged, as if under the Bodhi tree seeking Enlightenment.

On the side of the temple opposite the main entrance sits the Bodhi tree, cordoned off by a stone fence. The day I was there, I saw a large contingent of Buddhists sitting in a group facing the tree, chanting and praying. On another side of the temple, I saw a long raised platform, known as the Cankamana ("cloister walk"); here, pilgrims light candles and place flowers as a form of worship. The temple is surrounded by large stone sculptures, statues and different walkways, which all have some relationship to the journey of the young prince and the creation of Buddhism. Just south of the temple, there is a small lake. At the center of the lake is a statue of a seated Buddha, protected by a large snake. The legend behind this statue is that the snake-king Muchalinda protected the Buddha from falling rain as he was meditating, thus, this lake is called Muchalinda Lake.

As the sun got higher in the sky, worshipers and tourists flowed into the temple's grounds. I had been there for a few hours, taking in both the ancient architecture and religious depictions as well as the messages of Buddhism. I left the temple, got some lunch and went back to my hotel to briefly rest. Bodhgaya was small, so it could be covered on foot in two days. After leaving here, my next three destinations were the largest cities in India, so I wanted to cherish the slow pace and quiet worship of the Buddhists around town.

BodhGaya is one of the four locations where a significant event in the Buddha's life took place (Enlightenment). The others are Lumbini (birth), Varanasi (first sermon), and Kusinagar (mahaparinirvana - death, thought of as the final release from the suffering of an earthly life). Because BodhGaya holds such significance, there are many national Buddhist temples here. Each of them is within walking distance of Mahabodhi temple, and have wonderful depictions of the Buddha along with national symbols, highly detailed and colorful artwork, and unique architecture. The temples are from Bhutan, China, Thailand, Mongolia, Burma, Japan and Bangladesh; in addition, there is a Tibetan temple as well.

Because Bodhgaya has ties to the creation of Buddhism, the Dalai Lama's presence here is closely monitored and recorded. In 1989, he came to Bodhgaya to bless the large statue of Buddha at the south end of town. The statue is 25 meters high, and required the labor of 120,000 stone masons - the first stone was laid in 1982, and it was completed just before its consecration in 1989.

I was prone to lots of activity and having to go long distances, so Bodhgaya was one of the easiest cities I would visit on my trip - so after walking around just a couple of streets, I was able to cover everything there. I went back to my hotel, and claimed my bag for the journey back to the train station. There, I would board an overnight train for the most eastward destination on my trip, and the farthest I have ever been from home in my entire life: Kolkata. No way was I going to India without passing through Kolkata, a city once visited by my grandfather as part of his tour of duty during WWII.





May 05, 2010

India - Varanasi

By Red Sox Steve

Varanasi

I couldn't have been happier to get off the train when it pulled into Varanasi. Taking a fourteen hour train ride lends itself to hours of conversation with the folks sharing your compartment - I made friends with Oliver, a German traveling by himself. I don't know how to speak German, but because his English was pretty good, we found the time to share stories of India, Europe, America, and so on. Because the train was late, Oliver knew he was going to have some trouble finding a room; I was staying in a place that was relatively expensive, with an extra bed, so we agreed to split the cost for one night.

Oliver and I hopped on an auto-rickshaw from the train station at about 8PM on a Monday night, and, like Jaipur, Delhi, and Agra, it became immediately obvious that I was again in a very crowded city. It's population as of the last census (2001) is a touch over 3 million. Oliver and I, and our backpacks, were stuffed into the backseat of the auto-rickshaw as it careened around turns, and weaved in and out of the chaotic traffic. Like prior cities, dust and pollution assault the senses when in traffic. It's hard to breathe and see very much.

Varanasi (formerly known as "Benares") is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, going back thousands of years. It is mentioned in ancient Hindu scriptures like the Rigveda and Mahabharata, and is a pilgrimage site for Hindus. Bathing, washing laundry, or even cleaning cattle in the Ganges river is considered a sacred act. We were in a historic place for sure, but there was plenty of evidence of a modern, consumer-based society around us as well. High-end hotels, car dealerships, electronics stores, and clothing stores lined the main streets and seemed to be everywhere.

My hotel, the Sahi River View Guest House, was overlooking the Ganges. The Lonely Planet recommended NOT telling the rickshaw driver the hotel name; if you did, he might reflexively retort that it was closed or had "unfortunately" burned down, then recommend another hotel that was paying him a commission. Instead, Lonely Planet recommended mentioning the Ghat nearest the hotel, if possible. In my case, I was staying right by the southernmost of the Ghats that lined the Ganges, Assi Ghat, which is where we were headed after nearly an hour in the auto-rickshaw. Before I go into detail about the Ghats, I just want to mention that check-in went smoothly, the customary vegetable fried rice and Coca-Cola that room service delivered never tasted so good, and the hot shower couldn't have relaxed me more - with the weight of the last two days on my shoulders, I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

I woke up the next morning, easing into what would was likely to turn into a full, hot day. I walked out onto the veranda, and saw the shining sun overtake the Ganges. Tourists and visitors have been enjoying this view for centuries. I had breakfast, wished Oliver a safe journey as he found another place to stay, and immediately started out. Ignoring the map in my Lonely Planet, I started heading south out of my hotel, although I was at the southernmost of the Ghats lining the Ganges; I quickly figured out that I should stop, open the book, and after doing so turned right around and headed north towards the Ghats.

Ghats are a series of steps leading down to a main body of water. Some of the Ghats are publicly owned and others private. A worshiper's intention is to pray facing the Ganges, kneeling on the steps and facing the river. I also saw small businesses being run on some of the larger Ghats, and very distinctive coloring and symbols painted on the Ghats and buildings atop the steps. Each of the Ghats is unique and distinct with respect to the architectural or social significance of each. The different colors and buildings provide sufficient distinction to the worshiper, or, in my case, the observer. What takes place on the Ghats is important, and in the case of activities like washing laundry, not just religious, but practical as well. My own clothes were washed in the Ganges by the laundry service that operated at my hotel.

One other practice maintained along this sacred river is the cremation of Hindus. Hindus believe that all souls are in an endless cycle of birth and death and that death is the most important event in a Hindu's life. By burning the body, and then passing the ashes to the closest male relative to sprinkle into the Ganges, it is thought that "moksha" is achieved; freedom from the cycle of death and reincarnation. Seeing a plume of smoke rise up from along the shore of the Ganges at Jalasayin Ghat means that another Hindu body has been wrapped in a white sheet, carried down to the river's shores and is being cremated; this scene is not allowed to be photographed.

The morning boat ride along the Ganges is the best way to see the series of Ghats along the river. Many of the practices of kneeling and praying go back thousands of years, but this isn't just a place to talk to Lord Shiva and other Hindu gods. It's a place to socialize, to see others and be seen yourself. Young men flex muscles by repeatedly pounding laundry against rocks to wash it - the sound echos up and down the calm river; children frolick, performing dangerous dives as your boat approaches their Ghat - they want their picture taken after all; and the late-morning laundry is on full display along available steps and railings to capture the sunlight and dry through the afternoon. Boats full of worshipers pull up along its shores, and because tourists hiring boats is a popular way to see the Ghats, others pull up alongside yours with trinkets and food for sale. The river is calm and the cadence of the boatman's oars is tranquil and relaxing; the sun burns hotter as the morning turns to mid-day, but this is one of best experiences I had in India - to observe the ancient world, along the shores of its most sacred body of water, carried through the ages, and to see ancient religious practices taking place in the 21st century.

I stayed in Varanasi for two full days, and tried to plan out the time in half-day segments. The first morning, I woke up, got a little lost by heading south (duh!), then went back to Assi Ghat in front of my hotel and immediately hopped on a boat for a river trip to see the ghats. As it turned to noontime, we returned to the launching point; I had only seen half the ghats at that point, and had no intention of staying out there in the sun. I went back to the hotel for lunch, relaxed for a short while, and walked around the streets for the afternoon. I sought out a yoga studio for a possible class, but had a loosely held itinerary for the rest of the day. I needed to find a cash machine (I came across two that were broken before finding one I could use), and wanted to see what the marketplace and main commercial areas were like. I could only stand the chaos of traffic and crowds so much before surrendering and returning to my hotel.

The next morning, I took in the remaining ghats by hopping on a boat farther north. The ghats run along one side the Ganges (facing east towards the sunrise) for over 5km. Even to the uninformed observer, it is easy to spot the distinction between adjacent ghats due to the variety in their color and architecture. When I read about the ghats in the Lonely Planet, and all that takes place along them, my thinking was that these have been around for thousands of years... how could I possibly see the entire range of activities in two measly days... but, I was wrong. After going up and down the river, I saw people praying and bathing, bodies being burned, kids swimming and playing cricket, laundry being washed and dried, and even cattle being herded into the river for a bath! That which was exotic and foreign when I left the United States a couple of weeks before had suddenly became familiar and seared into my memory... India amazed me once again, which is pretty much the only thing I was hoping when I came here in the first place.

After two full days, and a quiet and relaxing stay at a nice hotel along the river, I got up and headed to the train station. I would be leaving the state of Uttar Pradesh now, continuing east to the state of Bihar. My next stop would be a four hour train ride away... Gaya!





May 02, 2010

India - Lichchavi Express, #4006

By Red Sox Steve

I had spent about 30 hours in Agra, arriving there mid-morning on Saturday via a 2 hour bus trip from Bharatpur, departing at about 4 PM on Sunday, after having seen Agra Fort, the Baby Taj and the Taj Mahal. I wanted to cover a lot of ground, but didn't want to rush... keep moving, but appreciate each moment of the journey. After seeing the major sights in Agra and uploading my photos to facebook (a handy excuse to keep out of the mid-day sun), I made my way to the Agra bus park.

To catch the train to Varanasi, which was an overnight journey, I had to first take a bus from Agra to Tundla, 25 km away. This would be my first overnight train trip (I had already taken day trips out of Jaipur and Sawai Madhopour), and Tundla wasn't found on any of the Lonely Planet maps. I thought it wise to leave Agra early, so I could arrive at the train station before sundown at 6:30, even though my train wasn't leaving until 8:30. The train I needed to take - and I will never forget this for as long as I live - was the Lichchavi Express, train #4006, leaving Tundla Junction at 8:29 PM, and arriving at Varanasi Junction at 6:15 the next morning.

After slowly weaving out of the dense streets of Agra and getting on the highway, the bus pulled over when it reached Tundla. I checked with a couple of folks on the bus - all I had to do was hop in an auto-rickshaw and ask the driver to go to the train station. The auto-rickshaw driver headed down a main road, which ended just where I needed it to: Tundla Junction Train Station.

The sun set as I made my way to the waiting area. The station was small, but so was Tundla so this was no surprise. I went over to an inquiry window, showed the representative my train ticket, and he confirmed the train was on time. "Ok, great. I'll hop on this train about an hour from now, get myself some food and rest, and when I wake up, I'll be in Varanasi," I thought. Since I bought a cell phone back in Delhi, I was able to make reservations at the hotel in Varanasi in advance, so I had this part of the journey plotted out for the next few days. But first, I had to get on the train.

As night fell, I thought about getting some food. Because I was 10.5 hours ahead of EST in the US, I made a few calls, catching up with friends and family as they tackled their Sunday morning routines back in the US. I was waiting to get on the first overnight train I had ever taken in India, so after making a quick trip to the bathroom, I found a seat in the station's waiting area and started flipping through my Lonely Planet. I began waiting.

The station wasn't that big, meaning that if a huge train rumbled in, everyone would know. I started chatting with a British couple. As it turned out, we were all leaving Agra, headed to Varanasi - catching a train from Tundla was the best way to do that. Periodically, a railway employee with a thick Indian accent would announce arrivals and departures. Despite the fact that he was speaking English, I had a tough time understanding the announcements. My conversation with the Brits quickly passed the time as our scheduled departure approached.

I went up to the inquiry window, which was now mobbed, to confirm the train was on time and find out what platform to stand on. This was where things started to go awry. First, at pretty much every train station, there is chaos and disorder at the inquiry window. Passengers scramble for the small opening in the glass to address the railway rep; sometimes, he will snap an answer without checking a computer, and other times, he will flat out give the wrong information. In this case, I found out our train was now 2 hours late. There was a delay in Delhi, where the Lichchavi Express started. "No big deal", I thought to myself, "not everything goes smoothly when traveling". I reported back to my new friends, and we sat there and resumed our conversation - they were a romantic couple, traveling around the world for two years, and had just started their journey. They planned on continuing further east to see more of Asia, and, if I recall correctly, Australia and New Zealand as well. We managed to interest each other for another couple of hours, before, again, one of us took the initiative and approached the window.

The news from the attendant got worse: a heavy fog in Delhi cancelled our train! Here we were, well away from Agra in the middle of the night, waiting hours for a train that was not even going to show up! I picked up the phone, called my friend Matt back in the US, and asked him to go online to verify this. He and his (very helpful) roommate Erin immediately went to the Indian Railways website, punched in the train information, and found that the train's arrival in Tundla was delayed four hours. In other words, the station attendant said one thing, and the website contradicted it. My new friends and I were very confused, as fatigue and dismay set in.

As night fell, the station became more crowded. There was a great deal of activity: hawkers selling food and chai, beggars seeking handouts (mostly from tourists), and unhappy passengers staring at the announcement board and crowding around the inquiry window. In addition to all this, because the train station is safe, clean, and well-lit, families arrive here each night, lay out a blanket on the floor, and sleep. The same families have staked out floorspace at the train station, night after night, for years. This practice isn't exclusive to Tundla.

It was around midnight - my new friends and I still had our energy. After contacting the US and then confirming with other folks in the station that the train was in fact coming (and that the railway employee had been wrong), we sat back down. We had very little idea what was happening, and it was getting closer to sunrise than sundown. I went back to the window, to wait among the displeased, anticipating disappointment in whatever information I would find. All of a sudden, I was tapped on the shoulder by an Indian man who asked, "are you on the #4006?" Stunned, I responded, "Yes, along with a couple of folks right over there." "I have a friend in Delhi who told me that train is still sitting on the track up there, and can't yet leave due to fog," he shot back. Although he was being extremely kind, I couldn't help but interrogate him further, my skepticism was growing, "your friend is on #4006 in Delhi, and it hasn't left? When did you talk to him?"

We had even longer to wait. If the train we needed hadn't left Delhi, it would be at least four hours before it got to Tundla, assuming it was traveling at normal speed. We might see the 6AM sunrise before we saw the train that was supposed to arrive at 8:29 the previous night. At least we thought waiting would pay off - as long as we stayed at the train station, the train would arrive. Exactly when? Another matter entirely.

My new acquaintance quickly went from being a good samaritan to a friend. He was able to identify the cultural nuances my British friends and I had missed in the train employees' behavior. In this case, the fog had turned this entire section of the country into a disorganized mess - the railway employees had very little information, but didn't want to admit as much; plus, they were typically not predisposed to assist the throngs of passengers even if things had been going smoothly. In other words, my new friend Arjun (means "shining" in Hindi - totally appropriate given his assistance) confirmed our fears: we had little knowledge about how the next few hours would transpire, except that we would continue waiting.

Arjun's presence in our little band, however, helped divert a conversation that was going from a way to pass the time into a failing effort at staying awake. Talking with him would change all that, at least for me. He only carried a briefcase, in contrast to our heavy packs - he was visiting Tundla for a couple of days, to spend time with his girlfriend. Arjun was a mechanical engineer, employed in Gujarat (one of India's most industrial states), but was heading east to a week-long engineering conference. As we started talking about his vocation, it quickly became clear that he was intelligent and engaging. What he had to say would be enough to keep me awake. Arjun worked in a metals recycling plant - his company figures out a way to reuse scrap and waste metal. He manages a handful of workers, some of which are Chinese immigrants. He has also invented a new, more efficient way for his company to recycle the scrap they receive from around the country. Arjun came up with a new design for a smelter, which has proven effective and profitable and probably figured in to the two promotions he has earned since joining the company.

His professional accomplishments aside, he was in Tundla for the weekend for one reason: to visit his girlfriend, a local schoolteacher who lived with her parents. They have been together for a few years, and would like to get married, but there is one obstruction: her parents' desire to adhere to the rules of the caste system. Arjun and his girlfriend belong to different castes; Arjun's family comes from a warrior caste, while his girlfriend's family comes from a higher caste. Therefore, her marriage to Arjun is prohibited, according to the rules her parents are following. It is acceptable for Arjun to see her, but marriage is not allowed. My shock jolted me enough to keep me awake as the clock approached 3 AM.

Arjun and his girlfriend don't want to elope, which would have the twin effects of forsaking the constraints of the caste rules and disobeying her parents. It is a stifling situation for such a progressive young man and his mate, and exemplifies the push and pull between modern and ancient India. The caste system is an old and very complicated set of rules which are meant to segregate people who perform different functions in a given society. According to caste rules, someone from a higher caste is forbidden from marrying someone from a lower caste. Arjun's story is not unique: young Indians are struggling to respect their ancestors, but are yearning be part of a modern world, and to leave the strictures of an ancient system to the history books and museum.

The conversation between me, Arjun, and our British friends, kept us all awake. Arjun, because he is able to speak Hindi, found out that our train had left Delhi a couple of hours ago and would be arriving soon. At this point, I was standing up to prevent narcolepsy, and had drank so much chai it had no effect. Getting to the train station early seemed like such a good idea the previous afternoon... my total waiting time before the train pulled in was about 11 hours, nearly the length of the train trip itself. After hours of rumors, conjecture and blatant misinformation, you can probably imagine my shock, when - as I was standing on the platform - the train pulled in to the station. I had my ticket in hand, and was eager to find my bed.

The massive steel behemoth came to a halt and my friends and I boarded. We parted ways because I was the only one among us traveling in a car designated "2AC" (a 2nd class sleeper car). On trains, there are multiple accommodation options - there are 1AC and 2AC sleeper cars, where your reserved seat turns into a bed, and air conditioning is provided. There are general sleeper cars, which are more crowded and less private, and there are regular passenger cars where seats and no beds are provided to passengers. All require reservations and of course these trains have many cars. In my case, my ticket clearly displayed all the information I needed - I had a specific seat number in a 2AC car - all I had to do was find it and I could finally rest.

I began to read the sides of the cars as the train slowed to a stop, looking for some indication of where the 2AC car would be. I saw "sleeper", "3AC", "catering" and other signs painted on the sides of the car, but nothing about 2AC. I looked down the long platform and couldn't see the end of the train because it was so long. I hadn't slept at all, and it was still dark out. I had no choice - I knew this was my train and I had a ticket. I hopped in the nearest open door and started to walk towards the rear of the train. The train hadn't started moving, and I had no clue where I was going. It was extremely crowded, and of course it was dark because all the passengers already on the train were sleeping.

I had no idea if I was going in the right direction, so I decided to step off the train at the next open door to see if I could find the elusive 2AC car. About 10 seconds after I did that, the train started moving! The jolt of adrenaline I got gave me enough energy to jump back onto the train, and walk from car to car. My bag was getting heavier as frustration started to replace patience. I finally saw an employee, showed him my ticket, and he indicated 2AC was about four cars back. I kept moving, dodging feet and baggage protruding into the walkway, and even passing through a food service car (yep, all the employees were staring at me). I must have accidentally jostled awake every third passenger by hitting their feet with either my shoulders or my weighty, lurching backpack. Finally, I arrived at the 2AC car - all I had to do was find my seat (on the ticket, referred to as a "berth"), and I could lie down.

I began counting - there are 10 compartments in each car and 6 seats in each compartment, enclosed by curtains. With all the curtains closed, a silence broken only by boarding passengers, and no attendant in sight, I was a bit intimidated - trial and error would be the only way to find my seat. I guessed the folks in my compartment would be sleeping, but had no idea how to get settled in for the 5AM version of a "good night's sleep". I finally arrived at the right compartment and was ready to toss my bag below, and lie down fully clothed... I was so tired.

I flipped open the curtain, and, to my amazement, in my bed I found a chubby Korean man staring right back at me. Just like the rest of this journey, this was NOT what I was expecting! He looked up at me, gestured to his wife and child in the next bed, and politely asked if I could take the upper bunk across the aisle. With my half-open eyes from being awake through the night, and sore back from carrying my backpack through the train, I looked at him, his wife, and their little baby and wanted to say, "No f!#$%&@ way", but instead what came out was, "sure, no problem." I put my bag below, climbed to the top bunk, took out my pillow and did my best to close my eyes. As soon as I did, the sun came up and food and drink service started. Young men were going up and down the aisles, announcing what they are carrying in an almost rhythmic chant I will never forget: "garam chai"... "garam chai"... it was hypnotic enough for my eyes to close, but it kept me awake. This wasn't my lucky day.

The train pulled out of the station, and over the next fourteen hours, I would get in a couple of naps, finally get some food and make myself as comfortable as possible. As it turned out, the Korean gentleman who took my seat happened to be living in Pune (pronounced "Poona") with his family for a couple of years, working as a social worker. I also met Oliver, a German who was traveling by himself. We got to know each other well enough to split the cost of a hotel room in Varanasi, and parted ways from there. This part of the trip wasn't fun and it sure wasn't compelling - it was exhausting. We pulled into Varanasi, and, within in 1 hour of the train's arrival, I was at my hotel, had checked-in, eaten and showered. I would start to explore this wondrous city which was several thousand years old, but only after I got some sleep.





April 29, 2010

India - Taj Mahal

By Red Sox Steve


Taj Mahal

Agra is a difficult city to appreciate, even for someone like me, who has only seen a portion of India. Some of Agra's streets are windy and narrow; what little sense of direction I had was lost after a few turns, and as urban areas go, there are many other Indian cities that have more to offer travelers. Agra, though, is a quick 2 hour train ride from Delhi, and is visited by millions each year for one reason: the Taj Mahal.

When I first climbed to the rooftop restaurant of my hotel to view the Taj Mahal the evening I arrived, I couldn't believe it. The sun cast an orange-pink light on the white marble mausoleum and I had to pinch myself - I was only steps away from one of the most beautiful structures in the world. As the sun started to set, the white marble began to adopt a grayish hue. In the foreground, the Darwaza-I-Rauza ("Great Gate"), made of sandstone, stayed a consistent red, its steadiness contrasting with the rapidly changing color of the marble tomb. Tomorrow would be an unforgettable day.

The next morning, I again marveled at the Taj Mahal from the rooftop restaurant as the sun started to cover it like a blanket. I took a few more photos and was off. I was only about a 5 minute walk away from the south entrance, but managed to enter via the west entrance... in other words, I had gotten lost! :) As I approached the west gate, security was tight, but a crowd hadn't yet begun to form. I bought my ticket, moved through the metal detector, had my small bag inspected (no food allowed), received complimentary bottled water, and walked into the Jilaukhana ("forecourt"). Directly ahead was the eastern gate, and off to my right was the south gate, which I had somehow missed.

I started snapping photos right away - the Great Gate was the domineering structure here in the forecourt - let's not kid ourselves though: the view on all sides was pretty amazing. I moved towards the Great Gate and was impressed by the pristine condition of everything in sight. The lawn and shrubbery were neatly trimmed and there was no litter in spite of the constant foot traffic. I could see that passages from the Qur'an were inscribed on the Great Gate, and, typical to many Mughal-era structures, the passageway had high, vaulted ceilings and a symmetrical design framed on the top and upper corners by lookout towers with highly detailed carvings. I hadn't yet made my way to the mausoleum, but was already quite impressed.

Tourists started to stream in through the gates, so I thought it wise to keep moving. I went through the Great Gate, which was the only way to enter the main courtyard, and stopped as soon as I saw the mausoleum. It was unbelievable - shining white marble, with a dome covering the building as tall as the building itself, and four minarets on the corners, each leaning slightly away from the structure (in the event of an earthquake, they would fall away from the mausoleum). There was a series of reflecting pools in the courtyard in addition to neatly trimmed trees which lead the viewer directly to the white marble mausoleum.

As I made my way toward the burial place of Mumtaz Mahal and her husband Shah Jahan (they are actually entombed under the main chamber, buried facing Mecca), I did so slowly. As you can probably imagine, numerous tourists were assuming a variety of poses and angles as they snapped photos of their surroundings, and that's when I was approached. I was doing my best to take photos of the grounds when a guide came up to me; although he spoke little English and I spoke even less Hindi (which is to say none...), he pointed to my camera and indicated he would take photos of me with the Taj Mahal in the background (for a nominal fee, of course). From multiple angles, he shot pictures of the structures around us, the Taj's reflection in the wading pool, and even some photos of me with the perfectly hedged shrubbery in the background. After all this, I was truly pleased at his photos (they were MUCH better than mine). I gave him a tip, and went on my way: it was time to make my way to the mausoleum.

The mausoleum and its mosques are built on a raised foundation, and before heading up to the platform, I had to remove my shoes. First, I made my way to a red sandstone structure on the mausoleum's western side. This building is a mosque, divided into three chambers - a main, central sanctuary with two smaller sanctuaries on each of its sides. The mosque was constructed to resemble another of Shah Jahan's major construction projects: the Jama Masjid 200 km away in Delhi. Each of the three sanctuaries opens to a vaulted ceiling and the roof holds three domes above each chamber.

From here, I was able to see the western side of the mausoleum and across the Yamuna River, where I had seen the Taj Mahal the previous day. On the other side of the riverbed, eager tourists appeared as small as tiny ants. I ascended another set of stairs to approach the mausoleum from the front and could hardly believe I could touch it, lean against it, and photograph it. My eye was drawn to the precision of the inlaid carvings and inscriptions on all sides of the structure. The symmetry, the detailed marble lattice, and the writing bordering the vaulted archways served as reminders of the technical prowess that had been achieved under the Mughal emperors. Shah Jahan didn't leave any doubt: this building was constructed by a powerful emperor.

Tourists were allowed to enter the ground floor of the mausoleum, but inside the dark enclosure, no photos were allowed. A circular fence surrounded the cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal. From here, there is only one place to go: off to the right and down a hallway to an exit. Muslim art of complex geometric patterns (these patterns are in Muslim structures all over the Middle East) were found all over the marble walls and ceilings. Carvings of vines, flowers and fruits into the marble covered much of the rest of the interior. I made my way back outside, astonished at the quality of construction and marveling at the carvings and history carried forward by this well-preserved structure.

The last building I saw in the complex is known as the jawab ("answer"), a building which had no religious purpose to its construction, but reiterates the themes of symmetry and balance. The floors of the mosque across the way are meant to accommodate prayer rugs while the jawab's floor isn't. It is similar, however, in that it has high vaulted ceilings, and large domes on its rooftop. It also has highly detailed carvings and patterns typical of Muslim design. To me, when looking at the three buildings simultaneously, there are no obvious differences between the two structures facing the mausoleum.

Before heading out of the main complex, I stopped at the Taj Museum, a relatively minor structure (but still impressive in its architecture and external carvings) at the western edge of the main garden. It is covered in red sandstone, and is smaller than either the mosque or jawab. There is a long reflecting pool leading up to the building, however it was empty when I was there. This tiny museum displayed photos of the rehabilitation of the Taj and its surrounding lawns completed by the British in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

I made my way towards the exit, back through the Main Gate, just as the late-waking throngs were beginning to arrive. It was just before noon, and I could hardly believe the three hours I spent passed so quickly. The Taj Mahal is certainly India's most popular destination, however, like many of the world's magnificent structures, it represents only a single historical era; in that sense, the idea that one man is able to accumulate the resources, both material and human, to construct such a monument is a blend of misdirected ego and hubris in addition to an unparalleled command of technology and construction.

I spent the rest of the afternoon uploading photos to facebook and packing my bag before heading to the train station to board the train for my next destination: Varanasi!





April 21, 2010

India - Agra

By Red Sox Steve


Agra

I transfered from a 35 passenger bus to an autorickshaw right in the middle of a busy intersection when I arrived in Agra. When I directed the driver to go to the Taj Mahal, it was only because the south entrance to the 350 year old mausoleum for Mumtaz Mahal was right near my hotel. As we drove through the city, which has an official population of 1.6 million, it was difficult to ignore that this was yet another bustling urban area, with wide busy streets and bumper to bumper traffic. After I checked into my hotel, the morning fog started to clear and I started out on foot. I could see the Taj Mahal from my hotel's rooftop, but thought it wise to get there early the next morning as opposed to rushing through in an afternoon before sunset.

The Taj Mahal is constructed on a north-south axis, facing south, which is how I knew I was heading west when I started from my hotel for some afternoon exploring. Small shops line each side of the street in the vicinity of the south entrance, and the streets are narrow and windy, so it was tough to maintain any sense of orientation as I walked. Bicycle and auto-rickshaws are the main forms of transportation in this part of town, so I hopped on one and directed him to the other major destination in Agra, which predates the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort. As the rickshaw ambled along a busy street, we passed Shah Jahan Park (named for the Mughal emperor who started construction of the Taj Mahal) on the right, and all of a sudden I saw a large, looming structure getting closer. Although I knew I wanted to see Agra Fort, I had no idea that the fort's walls would have a weather-worn reddish hue to them. As we got closer, I could make out more detail, first the structural arrangement of the fort, and then the fine carvings on the outer walls. When we pulled up, my first thought was, "this place is massive!".

After making my way through the usual cadre of hawkers and on to the entrance, I hired a guide (government-approved, recommended by the Lonely Planet, and well worth it), paid my admission fee and made my way in. The architecture and layout of the fort just inside the entrance were the first things I noticed. We had to cross a moat and go up a long alley way to get to the courtyard, but there were still many gates which sub-divided areas and structures inside the fort. We saw a great deal of sandstone even within the fort, as well as marble walls and columns and even an onyx slab used as a bench. The fort even had a battle scar from the Indian Uprising of 1857 (300 years after Emperor Akbar's modifications in 1573) - the British had fired cannonballs into the fort, cracking the black onyx tablet and a marble portico in the process. The interior of the fort was majestic and had been well maintained, which served as a constant reminder of the wealth and influence of the Mughal emperors. They were able to access human and material resources from as far away as the "Far West" (known to Westerners as the "Middle East") to construct the fort.

The one tragic story associated with the Mughals who occupied Agra Fort is that Shah Jahan, grandson of the mighty Akbar, had the Taj Mahal constructed as a tomb for his deceased wife, Mumtaz Mahal. At the end of his life and before his Taj Mahal was completed, Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb, and forced to remain in the luxurious fort (not such a harsh punishment) until his death. Each day, Shah Jahan, accompanied by his favorite daughter, spent time in a part of the fort called Muasamman Burj, a tower which faces the Taj Mahal. From here, he was able to monitor the Taj's construction from a distance until it was completed in 1653.

I still had a few hours of sunlight left after departing the fort, so I wanted to take in as many sights as I could before returning to my hotel. I hopped on a bicycle rickshaw and asked the driver to go to the other Mughal-era mausoleum in town, the burial place of Mirzā Ghiyās Beg, grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal. Officially, the monument, finished in 1628, is called the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula ("pillar of the state"); unofficially, many call it the "Baby Taj" due to its much smaller size relative to the Taj Mahal.

There were very few people there when I arrived - like its larger counterpart, architectural symmetry and fine detail govern every bit of its design. The walls of the main mausoleum are made of marble and inlaid with semi-precious stones like jasper and topaz, made into designs like cypress trees and or vases. The garden is perfectly maintained, with trees and flowers neatly placed around the courtyard. The inner walls of the secondary buildings have been worn out over time, however their external walls still maintain the detailed designs first conceived centuries ago.

After a mere 30 minutes, I had ventured to every corner of the monument, snapped sufficient photos and wanted to make one more stop before going back to my hotel: I hopped on the auto-rickshaw and the driver took me to a park along the Yamuna River. From here, I could see a rear view of the Taj Mahal across the dried up riverbed. Although implored (really, pestered) by my driver to go shopping, I decided to return to the hotel, where I could capture some shots of the Taj Mahal from the rooftop as the sun went down. I needed food and some rest because early the next morning, I would take in one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

JSAH Study of an Afghan connection





April 20, 2010

India - Sawai Madhopur & Bharatpur

By Red Sox Steve

Sawai Madhopur

I boarded the train in Jaipur, and started the weeks long eastward journey that would eventually get me to Kolkata. My first destination after Jaipur was Sawai Madhopur. It is a very small town, so I was hoping things would move a little slower here - I wanted to balance out the chaos of Jaipur and Delhi with a little more peace and quiet. Four weeks in India was a marathon, not a sprint. What also lured me to Sawai Madhopur was the tiger safari.

After a 2 hour train ride, I arrived in Sawai Madhopur, and went to my aptly named hotel: Hotel Tiger Safari. It was just what I needed - quiet, clean rooms, hot water, a nice restaurant and even a swimming pool. As soon as I put my bags in the room, I took a poolside seat, grabbed a Sprite and just said, "ahhh...". Later, I ended up walking down the only street in town to check out the area - I saw a number of hotels and small shops, but that was about it. I took a nap, had dinner, and watched TV before bed, but not before I signed up for the tiger safari which left for Ranthambhore National Park at 6:30 AM the next morning.

When I arrived in Sawai Madhopur, I was battling mid-afternoon heat; when I awoke before sunrise for the safari, the air was surprisingly cool. The open-air canter picked up my group, and as soon as it pulled away I had the wind rushing towards my face and I immediately knew I was underdressed wearing only a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. As we made our way toward the park, we picked up a few more tourists before getting to the park entrance. When we finally arrived, it was clear my fellow tourists with their cameras at the ready, were brimming with excitement. There are safari runs every morning and afternoon, the primary purpose of which is to see a tiger. Although other animals could be spotted along the journey (peacocks, monkeys, birds, deer), it was clear that the potential to see a tiger in its natural environment was the main attraction.

Our vehicle made its way along bumpy roads, and because the surrounding hills blocked the sunlight, it remained chilly. I had to keep my eyes open to see wildlife but my head down to avoid getting the occasional tree branch in the face, and I was freezing my ass off... I was not in the best mood. Because we hadn't seen any tigers, and the vehicle even broke down once, the groans, sighs and expressions on the people around me evidenced a creeping sense of despair that was eroding our collective optimism.

The sun started to come over the hills, we began to see some animals, and everyone's mood started to improve. We passed a watering hole for crocodiles, but weren't lucky enough to spot one. We briefly rested at the midpoint of our journey, and now the canter was headed out of the park. We had taken so many twists and turns, my sense of distances and direction became irrelevant. We spotted a number of lively monkeys and exotic birds, but had yet to see the animal that has been going extinct for decades, a Royal Bengali Tiger. All of a sudden, as the canter was meandering along the rustic road, our guide nervously tapped the driver on the shoulder and pointed into the brush. The vehicle stopped suddenly, and everyone shot out of their seats. About 40 yards from the road, there was a tiger prowling in the jungle! It was a baby male tiger, and he was examining us as intently as we were photographing him. For a few brief steps, it was moving parallel to the road, cautious to avoid us, but not lose sight of us. Instinct and adrenaline fueled subject and viewer - everyone in the group looked directly at the elegant beast as he tried to determine if we were friend, foe, or food.

Everyone grew silent as cameras were powered on and pointed at the powerful creature staring us down. The tiger started toward our vehicle, but still seemed to be a "safe" distance away, at least according to my naive estimations. The guide informed us that this was a baby male, which was more rare than a female AND extremely shy; although from where I was sitting he had NO problem with eye contact! He seemed to want to avoid us and so he crossed the road, avoiding interaction with our group while doing so. Because another safari group pulled up behind us, the tiger passed in front of our vehicle - he was about 10-15 feet from our headlights, when any perspective on diminutive dimension quickly changed. Our "baby" tiger walked slowly across the road while his paparazzi couldn't seem to take enough pictures!

He never changed pace and only slightly altered his direction while he moved. The brush he encountered on the other side of the road was much thicker - soon, because of his deliberate and powerful movements, we could hear the crackling of the bushes, but had lost sight of this striped mammoth. Within a few moments, he appeared, and was steadily moving away from our group. Final pictures and movies were taken, and after a few deep breaths, there was a feeling of exhilaration amongst us all. Ultimately, we were not in any danger, and, after the multiple unsuccessful attempts by some, everyone was pleased we saw what we came for. There is a campaign in India to save the tigers, part of which reminds people there are only about 1400 tigers left in the entire country. We were fortunate to see the rarest of rare species: a baby male Bengali Tiger.

We continued our journey out of the park, and spotted numerous monkeys, deer and India's national bird, the peacock, along the way. My body temperature warmed to normal, and the bone-chilling wind I felt early in the morning had become a cooling breeze while the late morning sun warmed me up. I made two friends on the trip as well, and we would all meet up later to talk about the tiger sighting and take an afternoon journey to the 1,000 year old Ranthambore Fort nearby.

On the afternoon trip to Ranthambore Fort, I got to know Jeff and Jaya, friends who were traveling together and staying at my hotel. There wasn't any signage at the fort, so we weren't able to grasp much of its significance with respect to its ancient history. When we finally got to the top (a winding ascent along a stone path punctuated by large intimidating gates with palatial structures and open grass courtyards at the top), we entered one of the three Hindu temples, and received a blessing from Ganesh, the Hindu god and protector of intellect and wisdom.

In our steps leading to the temple's entrance, we saw a long pathway outlined by a set of parallel bars, which is where a few million worshipers wait in line to receive Ganesh's blessing on an annual Hindu holiday. There was no line, so all we had to do was remove our shoes, enter the temple (no photos allowed), receive the blessing along with a spot of dye on our foreheads and a string bracelet, and provide a small donation before leaving. I was intimidated at first - I didn't want to offend any Hindus by falsely representing myself as someone worthy of a blessing from a religion I didn't believe in, and I didn't want to inadvertently disobey any of their customs. Luckily, neither happened, and after a 15 minute descent to the parking lot, the wind was again blowing in our hair as we returned to the hotel in time for dinner.

The next morning, I would board the train for Bharatpur.


Bharatpur

Sawai Madhopur was quiet and peaceful and Bharatpur was more of the same. Bharatpur, Sawai Madhopur, Jaipur... they all have the same "-pur" suffix. If you are an amateur etymologist like me, you start wondering about the meaning of that suffix. On my trip, I found out it is the Hindu word for city. Jaipur was founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh in the 18th century, Sawai Madhopur was built by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I, who came from Jaipur, and Bharatpur was named after Bharata, a brother of Lord Rama (the legendary and mythological king of Ayodhya). Rajasthan, a state formed in 1949 after independence, had been sub-divided into "princely states" ruled by Rajputs, one of the warrior tribes of India. The Rajput ruled states first coalesced under the Mughal emperors in the 16th century, then under the British in the colonial era that followed.

The trip from Sawai Madhopur to Bharatpur was short - after a couple of hours I was there. I hopped in an autorickshaw (think of a go-cart with a roof, powered by "CNG"... Compressed Natural Gas) and we made our way to my hotel, which was just a short walk to one of the major tourist sites of India: The Keoladeo National Park. The park is a bird reserve, with jackals, snakes, ants and even cattle milling about. The birds there were numerous, moved quickly and were spotted from a distance - I came across species like the Ruddy Shelled Duck, White-Throated Kingfisher, Cattle Egret, Rose-ringed parakeet, Spot-billed Duck, and Red-Wattled Lapwing. Some species migrate from as far away as Siberia and through the Himalayas to reach central India.

With my guide, I spent over three hours wandering through the park. I remember seeing owls, ducks, turtles and a wide variety of birds. At the end of a long road, we came upon a large display - on it were hunting records dating back a number of decades. Keoladeo didn't become a protected wildlife sanctuary until Indira Gandhi, daughter of Nehru (NOT Gandhi) was in power in 1971. Prior to 1971, for centuries, it was a reliable hunting ground for both Indian maharajas and the British ruling class. Because the sanctuary contains the confluence of two rivers, local farmers have also used it as a grazing area until 1982. Today, because so many endangered avian species make it their home, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After relaxing in this peaceful town, it was time to plan my escape. Very easy since there was a bus stop a short walk from my hotel - My next city has one of the most amazing and well-known tourist sites in the entire world... After a 2 hour ride I stepped out and jumped into an auto-rickshaw. It didn't matter if the driver spoke English or Hindi because I only had to direct him with two words: "Taj Mahal".





April 16, 2010

India - Delhi and Jaipur

By Red Sox Steve

It was an innocent enough question. I have been on airplanes many times before, and even longer flights - it's simple: I turn on the iPod, keep food and water consumption at a minimum to avoid frequent trips to the bathroom, allow my mind to drift away from the "armrest war" going on with the stranger next to me, and next thing you know, I'm there. But it was this one question that sent a jolt into the deepest part of my brain, and made me ask myself, after all the planning, all the reading, all the presentations and hours of documentaries and evenings spent talking to my Bangalorean roommate, what I had gotten into.

The flight attendant was dutifully going down the aisle with a cart full of food and drinks, looked me straight in the eye and said, "Western bread or Indian bread?" That was the first time I knew I was as geographically and culturally far from home as I had ever been in my life. That and the map on the tiny screen in the seatback in front of me that indicated the plane was moving east from Amsterdam, across Kazakhstan and Afghanistan, and we still had about 2 hours to go. I was on my way to India for the first time in my life.

I'm probably going to mention the Lonely Planet Guide about 1,000 times as I tell the story of my time in India - but that isn't nearly as many times as I opened it during my month there. I might also mention how heavy my backpack was - I squeezed everything I thought I needed into a single pack, and was still able to carry on. :)

We arrived at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi at around midnight. After filling out the appropriate forms and showing the customs officer my passport and visa (don't leave home without it!), I went straight to the waiting area. My flight was full and there were about three times as many folks waiting at the airport for friends, relatives, colleagues or assigned pick-ups as passengers. My taxi driver, Abdul, was there waiting for me: "Mr. Steve" his sign read. I greeted him, went to the ATM and hoped Bank of America listened when I told them I'd be using my card in India for the month. The familiar sound of the ATM working normally meant I was about to hold Indian Rupees for the first time... no need for dollars for about 4 weeks.

On the drive from the airport to the hostel, I got to know Abdul - we chatted a little about politics, economics, India, America, New York, the weather, families, and work. He's greeted tourists before, which was evident from his broadly-based and descriptive introduction to the city and the country. From the airport, the drive to Connaught Place in Delhi where I was staying was about 40 minutes. It was late at night, so there was very little traffic. Leaving the airport, though, I was immediately able to learn something about India: there is a multi-lane highway that gets people from the airport to the city; however, a huge construction project is taking place to build a high-speed train system along the same route. Later this year, the Commonwealth Games are coming to Delhi, so the municipal government hopes to have this project completed by then. After about 21 hours of travel, I arrived at my hostel in Connaught Place, with plans to see Delhi starting after a good night's sleep.


Delhi

I got to Delhi late at night on a Wednesday, and spent three full days in the city. It's a massive city containing about 14 million people, divided into a few major sections - two of the most prominent being Old Delhi and New Delhi. Connaught Place is in New Delhi and is a highly commercialized area with a Pizza Hut, Mercedes dealership, and Sony store within walking distance of my hostel. It's actually a large outdoor shopping mall with concentric circles of stores surrounding a central park which also has its own underground stop on the Delhi metro.

I had consulted my Lonely Planet about what to do and where to go long before I left New York, but still felt overwhelmed by the choices available to me. I wanted to be a tourist, but being a 6 year resident of Manhattan and remembering the mixed feelings I have about tourists visiting my hometown, I also wanted to make sure I spent as much time learning about the city and its inhabitants as I did taking in all the major sites. Because the city was so large and densely populated, I knew I wouldn't see everything I wanted. The next few days were tough - I was adjusting to the climate and time change (+10.5 hours from NY time), taking my meds (doxycycline, every day, with food & I had ciprofloxacin... just in case), and I had to find some relatively non-spicy meals that didn't make me sick. I had to take it slow while the experience of adjusting to India overwhelmed all my senses.

On my first day, I spent time in Old Delhi, taking in Mughal-era (1526-1850) structures. I saw India's largest mosque, the Jama Masjid, and a fort across the street, simply called the Red Fort. The mosque is well secured due to the long history of conflict and terrorism throughout the sub-continent, and it is surrounded by markets selling everything from chai to clothing, auto and bicycle rickshaw drivers waiting to pick up tourists, and beggars seeking handouts from the easily spotted foreigners who spend time in the area. The mosque is open to tourists most days, but closes at noon on Friday to accommodate worshipers - the area inside the mosque's walls are so massive, it is thought that 25,000 worshipers can occupy the grounds at one time. Right across the street stands the Red Fort, which housed the royal family of India for about two centuries. Every year on Indian Independence Day, the Prime Minister raises the Indian flag on one of the fort's main gates. The Red Fort and the Jama Masjid were both built by Shah Jahan, a Mughal emperor who ruled during the 17th century.

Over the next couple of days, I visited Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated and is memorialized, the Gandhi museum, which describes his life and achievements in pretty good detail, and some parks, tombs, and monuments around Delhi: Lodhi Gardens, Humayun's Tomb and India Gate. Lodhi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb both contain mausoleums for Mughal-era rulers and their families. The different sites serve as a reminder of the layers of history that have swept across northern India for the last half-millennia. Because of limited time and my desire to see other parts of the country, I missed a number of sites as well: Qutb Minar, the largest minaret in the world, the Lotus Temple, a B'hai house of worship, and the Akshardham Temple, a Hindu temple finished in 2005. After spending three days in Delhi, I felt that the trip hadn't started - I was only beginning to get physically adjusted; my curiousity about less well-known parts of the country was yet to be satisfied.

On Sunday morning, I left for Jaipur. The distance to Jaipur from Delhi was about 270km along a main highway, and the trip took about 6 hours due to traffic and stopping (I should have taken the train :) ). As my journey took me through Rajasthan, I noticed the changes in landscape. Much of northern, interior, India is very flat which helps explain why around half its population works in agriculture. During the journey, I also came upon both smaller towns and large industrial developments. In some places close to Delhi, there were construction sites where both commercial and residential properties were being built, reminiscent of a western/suburban development model. As we got closer to Jaipur, however, the landscape started to become more mountainous.


Jaipur

As we approached Jaipur, the first thing I noticed was the number of marble craftsmen along the side of the road. Marble has been a prominent industry in Jaipur for centuries - Rajasthani marble was even used in the construction of the Taj Mahal. The state of Rajasthan is very rich in natural resources, with companies mining things like zinc, copper and even sandstone. Before arriving at my hotel, I decided to take in two of the most important Mughal-era sites in the area: Jantar Mantar and City Palace. Jantar Mantar is an 18th century collection of large-scale astronomical devices. The ability of these tools to tell the time and date, and even incorporate the zodiac calendar with up to the minute accuracy nearly three centuries later, is a testament to their quality and indicates how advanced the Mughals of that era were. City Palace is just that - an 18th century Mughal-era complex built to house the king ("maharaja") and his family, as well as receive dignitaries and provide security in times of war.

After spending a couple of hours, snapping a ton of photos (I loved the accuracy of the sundials at Jantar Mantar - adjusted for their location with respect to Jaipur's distance from the equator) and hopping on an auto rickshaw, I made my way to my hotel, which was in one of the busiest parts of Jaipur. Because it was a planned city before it became inhabited centuries ago, Jaipur has a number of gates around the oldest parts of the city - these were incorporated into Jaipur's design in order to put Hindu architectural theory to use: the idea being that a plan using geometric concepts would increase a city's prosperity and the comfort of its inhabitants (later incorporated into many cities around the world). Furthermore, Jaipur is known as the "Pink City", because of a tribute the Mughal rulers made to the Prince of Wales on his visit in 1853 - they painted the entire city pink in anticipation of his visit.

On my only full day in Jaipur, I made sure to wake early: I was going to hop on a bus that would take me from the rotary near my hotel (just in front of a mosque called Hawa Mahal) to Amber Fort in the next town. My Lonely Planet was right: the buses left every few minutes, cost less than 10 rupees and got me there pretty quickly! Because it was early in the morning, I was on the bus with mostly school children and people going to work. It was crowded so I didn't mind standing. One of the students among this group on the bus had her electrical engineering text out and was reading it intently as the bus ambled along the bumpy road. Even though I was in Jaipur to see things that dominate the city's past, this place has a present and future as well. Some of the world's largest companies are represented in this city of 4 million: Infosys, Tata, Wipro, and Deutsche Bank to name a few.

After about a 30 minute ride, we approached Amber Fort. As soon as I saw the fort, I jumped off the bus. I entered an open gate into a courtyard, and could see the fort at the top of the hill. I started snapping pictures - the sun had yet to come over the surrounding hills, but because no one else was around, I managed to take some pretty good photos. I made my way towards the main path, which is where I started seeing tourists... riding up to the fort on the backs of elephants. I got lucky because I got off the bus a little early... I avoided the fort's main entrance where the elephants (and their "processed" meals) congregated: it stunk something fierce!

Making my way into the fort after climbing a windy path, I was able to see the different parts of this amazing structure. Amber Fort was built in 1592 and modified over the next 150 years to satisfy the desires of successive rulers. It sits high atop a hill in Amber (just 11km from Jaipur) and from here, one can see far into the distance in each direction. The main road leading up to the fort is surrounded by hills on both sides, and is where main commerce and transportation routes exist even today. The town of Amber itself is very small: centuries ago, the maharaja moved all inhabitants to Jaipur, the planned city a short distance to the south.

After taking in Amber Fort and walking around Amber, I hopped on the bus and returned to Jaipur. I spent an overcast afternoon in Jaipur, beyond the gated section of the city. The distinctive pink color adorning buildings in the gated section did not carry over to the more industrialized and populated areas of the city. The place, similar to Delhi, was teeming with activity, but, being a few days into my journey, my adrenaline had worn off: I went back to my hotel, had a brief meal, and fell asleep.

Tomorrow, I would board the train for Ranthambore.






March 05, 2010

Comment on the Nov. 3 URI Honors Colloquium: Doing Business In India, With India

By Red Sox Steve

I recently attended a program called the University of Rhode Island Honors Colloquium, which took place in Kingston, RI. The subject of the colloquia this semester is Demistifying India, and the topic of last night's discussion was "Doing Business in India, With India". Follow this link to find out more about this presentation. I want to comment on what I saw and learned because I found this presentation extremely informative.

I've travelled to - and lived in - the developing world, but have not yet been to India. From all that I've read about the "BRIC" countries, these are the places that will lead the world in a half-century. Their massive size, massive population, and access to natural resources means that their standing in the world will dramatically improve between now and 2050. At the same time, these nations are still very much developing countries. I'm also afraid the average American doesn't understand the magnitude of this transformation. Pay attention and learn about India, China, Brazil and Russia at every opportunity to understand how life will unfold in the 21st century.

There were three speakers, two of which were alumni of URI, who presented in the order as listed below:

1) Mr. John Struck, alumnus of URI (undergraduate economics), managing director at venture capital firm Wand Partners and Director of SeedWorks India Private Limited
2) Mr. Tobias Leuhrig, alumnus of URI (undergraduate engineering, graduate MBA), head of strategy at German truck parts manufacturer
3) Mr. Shivan Subramaniam, CEO of FM Global, a global insurance company based in Johnston, RI.

Mr. Struck's presentation was on the development of an agricultural company in India called SeedWorks. Struck, having graduated from URI in the early 1970s, has travelled extensively around the world, visiting over 50 countries in the last 35 years. His perspective was well-rounded, highly experienced and well-informed. The agricultural company that his venture capital firm financed over 10 years ago has performed as one would expect, when considering the nearly 10% growth in Indian GDP over the last decade - amazing! They've seen revenue growth in the double digits year after year, climbing every year. Agriculture makes up about 19% of the Indian economy, and employs over 100 million people. In contrast, the IT outsourcing industry employs a mere 2 million. Unfortunately, because of poor infrastructure and other challenges, a whopping 40% of SeedWorks' product is lost on its way from the farm to the market.

The investment has worked well for investors, and SeedWorks employs about 300 people; but losing such a high percentage of crop on delivery seriously cuts into profits. In addition, SeedWorks owns no buildings in India - it rents every property it occupies because, according to Struck, getting a building permit is so difficult there. In addition, the electrical grid is so unreliable, SeedWorks runs its system of backup generators almost 6 months a year. This business has done a good job of taking advantage of human capital - one of their lead Indian scientists was educated in America and has experience working for an American multinational firm, prior to managing SeedWorks. This is no surprise: many in the Indian diaspora have returned to India to seek employment after receiving educations abroad.

Mr. Leuhrig's presentation was a bit more technical in nature. He described the differences in technology in the trucking industry between Germany and India - with the best automotive engineers in the world, Germany is second to none when it comes to innovations in transportation. India, being an emerging economy, faces a great deal of challenges in the transportation sector, including a lack of safe and reliable trucks and busses on its poorly maintained roads and highways. Where Struck was well-informed and easily able to understand the nuances and differences between doing business in his own (and many other) countries and India, Leuhrig, unfortunately was not.

Coming from a developed nation, going to a developing nation, I understand the temptation to want to inject superior technological knowledge in the interest of progress and development. After all, we are all looking for the best solutions to the problems we find aren't we? Well, it's not as simple outside the sphere of engineering. India is a developing nation, and things like technology, transportation, and infrastructure are not going to resemble what we see in the developed world most of the time. When they do, it's a small victory for progress, but when they don't there are a number of reasons why this would be the case. Here's the thing - Leuhrig is a highly skilled engineer, and, knowing a few other engineers myself, I know they instinctively apply formulae to problems, working out the solution as efficiently as possible. That works, but only in engineering. Yes, India has inferior trucking capacity and technology. Yes, in order to grow its economy it will need the best technology in the world, but it's the structure of the economy in its present form that prevents this from being the case.

Leuhrig made great points about the technological differences between trucks in Germany and trucks in India. Germany, though, has the human capital, infrastructure and technology to support a network of high-end, high-performance vehicles. India, with a delapidated road system, intermittent access to mechanics and even less access to the technology required to maintain a system of high-tech trucks, won't benefit from an investment in the trucks Leuhrig is selling. His presentation confirmed that despite the best efforts of those that espouse the virtues of technology, a more holistic analysis of the situation in India, as well as a much higher level of self-awareness, would help point Mr. Leuhrig and his firm in the right direction.

The last presenter was Mr. Subramaniam. His presentation was on the services that FM Global provides to Fortune 500 and Fortune 1000 clients around the world. According to Subramaniam, it takes FM Global at least 3 years to develop and train an engineer for fieldwork. Unlike many other insurance companies, FM Global employs no actuaries, only engineers who contemplate and model outcomes with the intent of providing affordable insurance to clients around the world. He feels, as do most multi-national CEOs, that as the Indian economy grows, opportunities for companies like FM Global to increase market share there will grow as well. There is no stretch in that logic; however the only catch is that in India, in order to sell insurance, foreign ownership of an insurance firm can be no greater than 26%. In other words an FM Global insurance subsidiary must be at least 74% owned by an Indian-domiciled corporation. It is clear that India has little interest in allowing foreign financial firms to move insurance premiums or profits out of India.

The entire presentation was as interesting as it was diverse. The first presenter gave a great example of the success of aligned interests - a foreign financial firm made an investment completely appropriate for India's level of development, in a sector that will only increase with an improvement in India's developing economy AND skills and technical know-how were put to use in order to create a business that will contribute to economic growth in India. The second presenter provided an excellent analysis of the technological disparities that still exist between a high-tech nation and a low-tech nation in the trucking industry, while also confirming that cultural understanding is just as important as technical understanding. The third presenter gave a much more globally oriented presentation as he discussed the challenges facing a multi-national corporation trying to get into the Indian marketplace.

In their own way, each of the presenters confirmed that India will remain an attractive place for foreign investment and strong diplomatic ties for decades to come. While it retains many of the characteristics of a developing country, the economy is growing far faster than many other nations in the developing world. Because of this rate of growth, foreigners are advised to take advantage of opportunities for cultural and economic exchange. India is the largest democracy in the world, and borders some very dangerous nations - because of its geographic location and growing economy, India and the nations of the developed world must maintain and even strengthen their partnership, in the interest of mutual benefit.





January 20, 2010

India: The Planning Phase

By Red Sox Steve

In February 2010, for the first time in my life, I'm going to take a trip to India. When I mention to people that I'm heading to India, one of the first things they want to know is, "why India?"

It's hard to pinpoint when contact or proximity to someone or something Indian first made an impression on me. Sure, there were a few Indian students in my class throughout my junior high and high school years in Rhode Island; by the time I went to college in Boston (where I earned my nickname rooting for the Boston Red Sox), it was evident that I had much to learn. One of my closest friends in college was Indian and introduced me to Indian food for the first time - it was an acquired taste I didn't have the first time I sat down ("how am I supposed to put this all together with my hands?").

In the early 2000s, I paid little attention to world affairs... I studied science after all, and never even thought of studying abroad. Yep, that WAS me... boy how things change! In 2002, I joined the Peace Corps and soon after my arrival in Guyana, consistently started to encounter a culture that was distinctly Indian for the first time. Chicken curry, Diwali, Ramadan (13% of India is Muslim, the world's largest Muslim minority population) and some of the history behind the British colonization of India came on to my radar as I adjusted to life in a foreign country. The world was a lot bigger than I ever imagined.

After returning to the US, life in New York exposed me to a multicultural world. My goals here were primarily economic and my first job was in finance. Although I wasn't exposing myself to India during my working day, there were plenty of learning opportunities available as I made decisions about my future. During the latter half of the 2000s, the idea of India as an emerging economic powerhouse became more widespread. As I started to learn more about India, the facts began to astound me: a nation of 1 billion people, a rapidly growing economy, a former British colony, layers of history and culture, massive cities, and the list goes on and on.

Which brings me to the present day. The amount of reading I've done on India and the numerous movies, documentaries and presentations I've watched only begin to scratch the surface of what I am about to learn. The immensity of this nation and the background of its people mean I could study India for the rest of my life and still only know a fraction of what is out there.

But now, I've got to wade away from a theoretical and academic perspective and into a more tangible one. My feet will be on the ground there very soon, and I've got to figure out where I'm going and what I'm doing.

First, I had to take care of vaccinations. I went to the travel clinic at Miriam Hospital in RI, and learned that the following were needed for India (for official information on vaccines for India or any other country visit the CDC website at www.cdc.gov):

1) H1N1
2) Hep A
3) Hep B
4) Japenese encephalitis
5) Rabies
6) Seasonal flu
7) Typhoid
8) Measles (aka "MMR")
9) Polio
10) TDaP
11) Malaria

Traveling on a US Passport means you can't go to India without a visa, so I got a 10 year tourist visa in my passport. With my vaccines, visa and passport, a money belt, neck pillow, Lonely Planet (1200 pages!) and a few other items, I'm good to go!

I'm planning on spending 4 weeks in India, and here is the itinerary I'm working with, remembering to include flexibility at all points along the trip:

1) Days 1-4: Delhi - After a 25 hour flight which includes a 5 hour layover in Amsterdam, I land in Delhi. Delhi is a massive and very crowded city with a growing population and an urban renewal effort taking place ahead of the 2010 Commonwealth Games. Over the last 2500 years, at least eight cities have been founded in the area of Delhi, with New Delhi being the most recent, completed by the British in 1931. I'll be staying in Connaught Place, which is situated right between New Delhi and Old Delhi. Connaught Place was constructed during British rule, and was named after the title given to Queen Victoria's third son, Prince Arthur - Duke of Connaught and Strathearn. In Delhi, I'd like to visit a few different sites, some of which are a 15-20 minute walk from where I will be staying, and are listed here in no particular order:

- Gandhi Smirthi: the place where Mahatma Gandhi was assassinated on January 30, 1948. A memorial has been placed at the location, and there are numerous photos and other works of art there. Gandhi had been staying there for 144 consecutive days before he was shot by a Hindu extremist.

- National Gandhi Museum: After Gandhi's assassination, a number of his personal items were collected from around India and assembled in Mumbai. Eventually, Gandhi's effects were moved to their current location in Delhi. I also hope to see the Raj Ghat, a short walk away from the museum, where Gandhi was cremated.

- National Museum: The museum, the largest in India, has a collection that covers 5,000 years of Indian history. The wide range of items in the museum include Buddhist art, European coins, Mughal weaponry and Persian manuscripts. Wow!

- Nehru Memorial Museum: Jawaharlal Nehru, who died in 1964, was the first prime minister of India. The museum is located in the "Teen Murti Bhavan" ("House of Three Statues") on Teen Murti Road. Nehru occupied the house as the first prime minister of India, taking it over from the Commander-in-Chief of British forces in India. After Nehru's death, the house was converted into a national memorial. It also contains one of the four Nehru planetariums in the country.

2) Days 4-6: Agra, Uttar Pradesh. Agra is a 2 hour train ride from New Delhi, conveniently located just to the north of Connaught Place. According to my guide, a train leaves each day at 6:15 AM. The state of Uttar Pradesh is just east of Delhi, and I'll be visiting a few cities here, including Lucknow and Varanasi. Uttar Pradesh was the centerpiece of the Buddhist empire of Ashoka the Great, 2000 years ago. Agra was the first capital of Ashoka's empire, which stretched across the subcontinent from Afghanistan to Bangladesh. Agra sits right along a bend in the Yamuna River and is home to one of the most famous tourist destinations in the world, the Taj Mahal.

- Taj Mahal: Designated as a World Heritage Site in 1983 and over 300 years old, this is the top tourist destination in India. It is opened from dawn to dusk everyday except Friday to tourists, and on Fridays if you are attending prayer at the mosque.

- Agra Fort: The Taj is not the only World Heritage Site in Agra. Construction on this fort began in 1565 by Emperor Akbar, completed by his grandson who also built the Taj, Shah Jahan. The fort and the Taj are a little over a mile apart.

3) Days 7-9: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. To get from Agra City (AGA) train station to Lucknow Junction train station (LJN) takes about 4-6 hours. Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh, and was the site of the First War of Independence, in 1857. The Residency, a compound built by the British in 1800, was seized by Indian freedom fighters in 1857 and held for over 100 days. 2000 people died in an effort to defend the Residency. There are also Shia mosques and tombs in Lucknow, namely the Bara Imambara and the Hussainabad Imambara, which I will also try to see.

4) Days 9-11: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. The train ride from Lucknow to Varanasi is about 6 hours. Varanasi is one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities and has been a cultural and religious center in North India for a few thousand years. It lies right along the Ganges river and is thus a prime location for deceased Hindus to be cremated along the city's ghats. By being cremated along a sacred river like the Ganges, the dead can achieve "moksha", a release from the cycle of birth and death.

- The Durga Mandir (Temple) is situated in Ramnagar of Banaras (or Varanasi). It was built 500 years ago and is under the control of the royal family of Banaras State currently. This temple is devoted to Hindu deity Durga. The temple has a large stone built pond with it. The Durga Mandir boasts of its fine stone works, which is a fabulous example of north Indian stone work arts.
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple, also called Golden Temple, was built in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, located on the outskirts of the Ganga. This temple makes Varanasi a place of great religious importance to Hindus because Vishweshwara or Vishwanatha, the aforementioned Jyotirlinga of the Lord Shiva is enshrined here. A single view of Vishwanatha Jyotirlinga is considered to merit more than that of other jyotirlingas.

5) Days 12-16: Calcutta ("Kolkata"), West Bengal. The train from Varanasi to Calcutta is 14 hours. In Hindu lore, the God Shiva found his wife Sati's charred remains and vowed to do a "dance of destruction", which was only stopped by Vishnu, the supreme God of Hinduism. In Vishnu's effort, Sati's body was dismembered into 51 pieces, and one of her toes fell near Calcutta, in Kalighat, where a temple now stands. In 1686, British explorers arrived at the mouth of the Ganges and the area was signed over to the British East India Company.

- Victoria Memorial: The memorial is designed in what is known as an Indo-Saracenic style, and is referred to in the travel guide as a combination of the Taj Mahal and the White House. Inside it is both a memorial to the late Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee and a museum.
- Indian Musuem: Here, there are 1000 year old Hindu sculptures, minerals and even a whale skeleton.
- Mother Theresa's Mission: Here is where Mother Theresa lived from 1953 to 1997, and where she lay entombed, along with some of her personal effects.
- Sunderbans Tiger Reserve: I'll have to first visit the West Bengal Tourism office in the section of Kolkata called BBD Bagh to see if this is possible. It seems like any excursion is at least a full day, maybe two, to see one of the largest concentrations of tigers in the world.

6) city, days 16-18, cross country train trip to Mumbai

7) Days 18-22, Mumbai, Maharashtra: First occupied by Koli fishermen, then Hindus, then Muslims, then Portuguese, then annexed to the British via royal marriage, THEN leased to the British East India Company in 1668, Mumbai is the most populous city in India.

- Fort Area: The High Court's design is based on a German castle and a visitor can go inside and take pictures for free.
- Fort Area: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (aka "Victoria Terminus", "VT" or "CST") - this is the busiest train station in Asia and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Worli: Nehru Center. The Nehru Center contains a planetarium, as well as a history exhibition called "Discovery of India".
- There is a walking tour that starts in Fort, which takes about 3 hours to complete. It starts in Colaba at the Gateway of India and ends in Churchgate.

8) Days 23-26, Jaipur, Rajasthan: Jaipur is an 18 hour train ride from Mumbai, and is the capital of Rajasthan. The Rajputs are warrior clans who claim to have occupied Rajasthan for 1000 years prior to British arrival. After the British colonized India, Rajput maharajas regained much of their states' independence, which had been lost under the Mughal empire. Consequently, the maharajas were well compensated by the British in return for cooperation with their colonial rulers.

- Iswari Minar Sarga Sal: From this minaret, a viewer can see what is known as the "old city" of Jaipur.
- Amber Fort is located in Amber, 11 km from Jaipur. It was the ancient citadel of the ruling Kachhawa clan of Amber, before the capital was shifted to Jaipur. Amber Fort is known for blending both Hindu and Muslim (Mughal) architectural elements, and its ornate and breathtaking artistic mastery. The fort borders the Maota Lake.

9) Extra time: Udaipur, Rajasthan (between Mumbai and Jaipur): The train ride from Mumbai to Udaipur is 16 hours. Udaipur is in southern Rajasthan, and has been referred to as India's most romantic city. It was founded in 1559 and on the eastern side of Lake Pichola. The City Palace and City Palace Museum are on the eastern side of the lake, and, aside from the lake itself, seem like they are the most prominent attraction in Udaipur.




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January 11, 2010

Italian Citizenship Jure Sanguinis Pt. III - Passaporto!

By Red Sox Steve

This is the third and final part of the series I am writing, regarding my desire to obtain Italian citizenship. The first piece I wrote was in March 2009, the second piece in November, and here we are in early December, and I have my Italian passport!

In March, I was still waiting for the most critical document to come in - the Certificate of Naturalization, which was originally given to my great grandfather in 1926. It arrived in June, and at that point I finally had all the documents I needed. I gave myself the summer off, and by late August and early September, put the final pieces of the application in place.

As I discussed last time, I needed to get apostilles and translations for all the birth, marriage and death ("BMD") certificates related to those events which took place in America, and I needed to complete Forms 1 through 4 of the application, which can be found at the very bottom of this page.

To get the apostilles, I sent the BMD documents to the RI Secretary of State's office, with a check in the amount of $5/request, a letter stating my request, and a self-addressed stamped envelope. I had the documents back in about 10 days with the apostille (a 1 page letter signed by the Acting Deputy Secretary of State, in my case). For the official translations, I used the extremely reliable translators I found on the internet - www.italiandualcitizenship.com. I paid the company through paypal ($75/page), sent them scanned copies of the certificates, and had the documents back via email in about 2 weeks.

At this point, it was about mid-September, and the appointment date in mid-October was in sight. After making the appointment 10 months ago, it was finally getting close. I had some concerns - what if the consultants I had spoken to were all wrong about my eligibility?

They weren't, after helpfully reviewing my documents with me.

What if I made a mistake with the documents, and either didn't have something or missed a piece of information?

Not to worry, apparently the policy at the NY consulate is that you have about 2 months after your appointment to transmit all the necessary documents. The consular officer will advise you as to what is needed, and provide you with instructions for transmitting the documents.

Because it had taken me almost 2 years to get all the documents, I really wanted the appointment to be the end of the process. Further, I was in the most extensive of the 5 categories eligible for citizenship (from the website www.italiandualcitizenship.com): "Your paternal or maternal grandfather was born in your native country, your paternal great grandfather was an Italian citizen at the time of his birth, neither you nor your father nor your grandfather ever renounced your right to Italian citizenship" AND "A woman born before 01/01/1948 can claim the Italian citizenship only from her father and can transfer it to descendants after 01/01/1948."

The rules at the NY consulate are that you have to show up at least 15 minutes before your appointment, bring your passport, a copy of your passport, your application, a copy of your application, and a utility bill to show you live in the consulate's jurisdiction. Oh, and you can only bring a small bag with you to carry these things. Getting in went pretty smoothly - they let me in through a metal detector and shuffled me right upstairs to the citizenship/visa section. There I waited for about 20 minutes before I was finally called to meet with the consular officer.

We sat down, and the first thing he wanted to know was what category I was in. He was gruff, but professional as I mentioned I was getting citizenship through my grandmother's father. He called up a spreadsheet template on his computer, and began to ask to see my documents so he could keep them and record relevant information in the spreadsheet. I passed page after page across the desk while he recorded the information and kept all documentation.

By the end of the appointment, he was able to confirm that I had all necessary documents, I was eligible for citizenship and - here is the most important part - I would be contacted by the Italian government via letter; at which time, they would notify me that I was registered in Itri (where my grandparents came from) as an Italian citizen living abroad. My appointment was on Oct. 15 - on Nov. 10, I had received an email with the subject line: "Riconoscimento cittadinanza italiana". I had been registered as an Italian citizen! From here, it's a piece of cake...

About a week after I got the email, I returned to the consulate with a printed copy of it, a completed passport application, 2 passport photos, and the application fee of $120. I waited around for about 30 minutes, handed in the application and was told that my passport would be ready in 10 working days. I paid, kept the receipt and left. I returned on the appointed day, waited for a few minutes, picked up my passport and left!

My biggest piece of advice to anyone interested in this is to do your best to get the documents beforehand to determine whether you are eligible. There are 5 different categories of eligibility, so if you aren't eligible in one, you may be in another. Of course, do your best to keep everything organized because it takes time to obtain documents and then to obtain translations and apostilles. Further, I recommend that the applicant make it as easy as possible for the people receiving your requests for documents or information to assist you. I was very intimidated by the process at first, especially because I was in the most difficult category. I also had many relatives who have either passed away or simply don't remember dates, locations or specific events from so long ago. Therefore, it is hard to get certificates stating that these events have taken place without a great deal of searching. In other words, I had my work cut out for me, and felt like I was "flying blind" about 80% of the time. On the positive side, I gave myself plenty of time to get documents, felt as though I had good fortune because I got all the documents I needed, and did my best to keep everything in order.

In the process of investigating my family's history, I learned a great deal about what my ancestors' lives were like, as well as the challenges they faced both in Italy and the US. I was able to assemble a great deal of facts about my family's background - where they departed from in Italy, where they arrived in the US, how long it took, what time of year they endured the North Atlantic (January and February! Brrr....!), where they lived upon arrival in the US, where they worked, and when they passed away. Being a dual citizen makes me feel as though my ties to both countries are stronger than ever before - I often joke with friends that in getting my Italian citizenship, I am "undoing" what my ancestors did nearly a century ago by trying to get citizenship to the country they left behind.

They desired a better life and in doing so, felt they had to leave their country and the only home they had ever known, in the interest of giving themselves and their children something greater, yet unknown and unfamiliar. By having 2 passports, I think I am linking their past with my present. Italy and the rest of the EU nations are vastly different than they were even decades ago, as is America. Advances in technology put to use in areas like commerce and warfare mean that humanity is now bound closer than ever been before to events which take place thousands of miles away in unfamiliar places. Through this process, I have attached myself to a different and unfamiliar part of the world, which is something I have in common with what my ancestors were attempting nearly a century ago. Buongiorno!





December 28, 2009

Italian Citizenship Jure Sanguinis Pt. II - Documentazione!

By Red Sox Steve

This is a follow up to the first piece I wrote back in March 2009 about my desire to obtain Italian citizenship.

At the time, I was in the process of obtaining one of the most important documents needed to determine my eligibility for Italian citizenship: The Certificate of Naturalization for my great-grandfather.

Based on what I have found about my ancestors, they left Naples on January 6, 1920, and arrived in New York, February 15, 1920. This information is found on the Petition For Naturalization, a document completed by my father's mother's father... my great grandfather. He presented himself to the Providence (RI) County Superior Court on November 21, 1925 with a petition that he had lived in the US for 5 years, had fathered three children here and desired US citizenship. This was witnessed by two people, and the Petition for Naturalization was accepted by the court that same day.

On April 5, 1926, he was awarded a Certificate of Naturalization by the US Department of Labor. He was handed the original document, which I haven't located, and the US government retained a copy. This document was awarded in the days before the Social Security Administration (founded in 1935 with the signing of the Social Security Act that same year), therefore, he was given a file number. According to the USCIS (US Citizenship and Immigration Services), his Certificate of Naturalization was in the "C-File" Series, presumably one of the ways they kept track of documents. According to the Freedom of Information Act, I am able to complete a request, pay a fee and obtain a copy of the Certificate, if they have it. Lucky for me, they did!

Along with my great-grandfather's Certificate of Naturalization, USCIS also had the completed "Petition for Naturalization" which was originally filed in RI State Court and another document called the "Declaration of Intention" which he completed in 1921. The RI State Court system provided certified (with a nifty red stamp!) copies of the Petition and Declaration, while the USCIS provided a copy of the much coveted Certificate of Naturalization.

So, as of early June 2009, I had all the documents I needed: birth, marriage and even death certificates for me, my parents (both born in the US, married once and still alive), my father's parents (born in the US, married once, and grandma is still alive), and my father's mother's parents (born in Itri, Italy, married there, and both died in the US). I also had the (certified copy) Petition for Naturalization and (a copy of) the Certificate of Naturalization.

I needed to do a few things with the birth, marriage and death ("BMD") certificates relating to my ancestry which were acquired during my family's time in the United States. These documents came from the RI Office of Vital Records. Each of the 10 or so documents cost about $20 to obtain. In order to present them as legal documents to a foreign government, I needed to attach a document called an apostille to each one. An apostille is an internationally recognized legal certification as per the Hague (International Court) Convention of October 5, 1961. The function of the apostille is to certify that within the US state the document is issued, it has legal effect and is accepted as a legal document. In this way, getting the apostille from the RI Secretary of State allows an American birth certificate to be accepted and used by a foreign government. I needed to get apostilles (which were attached to each of the American BMD certificates with a grommet by the Secretary of State's Office and returned to me) for each of the BMD certificates I was using at a cost of $5 each. Furthermore, I had to provide officially translated copies of each of the American BMD certificates into Italian... at a cost of $75 each.

So, I was able to obtain the following for my application:

- a court-certified copy of the Petition for Naturalization
- a photocopy of the Certificate of Naturalization
- BMD certificates for me, my parents, my dad's parents, and his mom's parents all with translations and apostilles

But, that's not all...

The next set of documents I put together were Forms 1 through 4 of the application. These forms can be found at the very bottom of this page.

Form 1 is an overview of the application - they are asking for my ancestor's file number, dates of birth, marriage and death, and locations where these all took place. The applicant signs at the bottom, stating that all the information is true and accurate and indicates the Italian ancestor through which they will obtain citizenship. Form 2 is my declaration that I, as the applicant, have never renounced my Italian citizenship. Form 3 is the declaration of every living ascendant (mother, father, father's mother) that each has never renounced his or her Italian citizenship, and Form 4 is a declaration, signed by the applicant, that any deceased ascendant (my grandfather) has never renounced Italian citizenship. Each document must be signed by the attestee and notarized.

So, add Forms 1 through 4 to the list I provided above of documents that must be presented to obtain Italian citizenship. In addition, a photocopy of all these documents is needed as well as a copy of the US passport and a utility bill (or other appropriate document) indicating you are a resident of the jurisdiction that Italian consulate presides over. Consulates are located in California, Florida, New York and Boston. A complete list can be found here.

In part I, I gave a general overview of the process as I understood it at that time. Part II is an update - obtaining all necessary documents and finalizing the application. In Part III, I will discuss the appointment and subsequent steps. As of today, Nov. 2, 2009, I still don't have citizenship, and we will discuss this further next time.






December 15, 2009

Italian Citizenship Jure Sanguinis

By Red Sox Steve

In talking to a few people, I've learned that there is an interest in my pursuit of Dual Citizenship - Americans with Italian heritage MAY be eligible to become Italian citizens, which is effectively a gateway to the rest of the EU. I'm going to write what I know so far here, in the hopes that others will take up their own efforts if they are so inclined. My own appointment at the Italian Consulate (the LAST step in the process) is in October 2009, so even I am not an Italian citizen yet.

I am Italian-American, 3rd generation born here in the US, which means that it was my great-grandparents that came over here, back in 1920.

I first learned that I may be eligible through a former coworker - he simply stated the possibility that I could apply for Italian citizenship, so with the help of google, I confirmed this to be the case. Essentially, the "right to citizenship" is passed down through the paternal line, from the last of your ancestors to be born there. My great grandfather, Francesco, was born in Italy in 1892, married in a small town there, and, before having any children there, immigrated here with his wife and his parents.

What the Italian government calls this is "Italian Citizenship jure sanguinis", which means Italian citizenship, through blood relations.

The application process can be quite long, and, since I was unsure if I was actually eligible, I took it upon myself to obtain all the needed documents - birth, marriage and death certificates going back to my great grandparents. Even with all that (took about 6 months), there was still one key piece of information missing, which is essentially the lynchpin to eligibility:

If the person who came over here was naturalized as a US citizen before giving birth to his or her progeny, then no one down the line is eligible through that person. I don't want to give wrong information here, so I urge you to check out your own situation based on the documentation available at the website for the Italian Consulate. Here is the link to the Consulate in New York (where I live), but you must use the consulate that covers the state that you live in: http://www.consnewyork.esteri.it/Consolato_NewYork

To give you a bigger picture of the process, you have to 1) prove, through the marriage, birth and death certificates of your ancestors, that you are related to the person born in Italy, 2) prove that the first generation born here was born BEFORE the immigrant parents were naturalized, 3) obtain birth and, if applicable, marriage certificates from Italy (may take a while) for the folks who immigrated here, and 4) translate all the english documents into Italian using an official translation service.

There are notaries and apostilles and such which are part of the process, but the key is obtaining all the documentation which proves you are eligible. Currently, I have all needed birth, marriage and death certificates (even the ones from Italy!), AND the naturalization papers issued by the court system in 1925 (my grandmother was born in 1921, so this proves her father was naturalized AFTER she was born, passing down the eligibility for citizenship). What I am waiting for at this point is the USCIS (part of the Department of Homeland Security) to send documentation also related to the naturalization. It should only take another few weeks to get them, but I sent the request just before Christmas; obviously, I wish I sent it sooner.

Oh, and then, I made my appointment at the Italian Consulate here in December 2008... the earliest available appointment was October 2009! Like I said, the process takes a little while...

Furthermore, I highly recommend using a business/consulting service that will assist you in the process - there are businesses that are set up solely to assist individuals in obtaining their Dual/Italian citizenship. In total, the process is going to take me 2 years and probably cost almost $1500. That being said, because the consulting services have experience with the process, they are in a good position to guide you, and help you work as efficiently as possible. I did not start using a consulting service until I was about 10 months into the process, and highly regret not employing them earlier. I recommend this one: http://www.italiandualcitizenship.com/index.htm. You do have to pay them through paypal before they will assist you, however. So far the people I've been working with have been extremely helpful, and, without them, I wouldn't have figured out how to obtain the naturalization documents.

All in all, I'm happy to answer any specific questions, am not an authority on this process, and highly recommend that you do your own investigations within your own family or on the internet, and, if you are serious about getting your citizenship, enlisting a consulting business to help you with the process.

August 17, 2009

A Guided Tour Through the Rocinha Favela in Rio de Janeiro Pt. 2

By Red Sox Steve

As we progressed through the alleyways, we passed by barbershops, butchershops, bakeries, single room homes and small churches and eventually stopped at an art studio. As you can see from clicking the link, the artists who work there depict the favela in numerous oil paintings of various sizes as well as putting together a number of politically oriented pieces. From there, we continued to a daycare run by an Italian Non-Governmental Organization ("NGO") as well as a local bakery where hungry tourists were implored to purchase a variety of sweets by the proprietor. We saw local kids beating on overturned buckets working together to produce a samba beat as well as local proprietors selling jewelry like wire bracelets and necklaces.

Our winding journey continued around corners, down steps, under homes extending from the hillside. Daniel stopped occasionally to point out different aspects of life in the favela and gave our group the opportunity to take pictures. He's done this before - along the way, whenever he had the opportunity, he made sure to acknowledge people that he knew, and also to greet people he didn't. It is their home after all; it's their community, and we are just guests. Part of Daniel's efforts - because he was well known to some of the people we passed - were in making sure the group was safe. Far better to acknowledge the presence of our hosts and show our group's gratitude for being able to go into the favela than acting as if we are in someway entitled - and they are in some way obligated - to allow this to take place.

This is especially true because of what happened near the end of our tour...

As we were descending down a set of stairs, in a grassy area off to our left (sorry I don't have any pics of this, but we were under pretty strict instructions - based on our surroundings and lack of understanding of the favela, we had to trust and obey Daniel's instructions), we saw a man holding a two-way radio and an automatic rifle of some sort. Just prior to this occurrence, we came across this photo:

ADA is a graffiti tag that represents the gang "Amigo dos Amigos" (in Portuguese, "friend of friends"). The ADA is the drug gang that controls Rocinha. They use communication systems like two-way radios, fireworks, and even kites to send signals around the favela - they know who goes in and who goes out, and even prior to seeing this particular guy I was under no illusions: the ADA was watching our group. Not wanting my future article on the favela to become an action story, I took note of the guy taking note of our group and kept walking.

Drug lords have a great deal of power in Latin America - undoubtedly, cocaine and marijuana are cash crops for the nations that produce them, and for the gangs it means political influence is purchased with some of the funds. For some young police officers, it means that bribe money and extortion can make up a significant portion of their income - to be sure, a civil servant, especially one early in his or her career makes very little money, resulting in a stranglehold of the authorities by the drug dealers.

Another contributing factor to all this? Geography. The same economic principles that cause rural dwellers to migrate to cheap urban locations to be close to jobs in wealthy neighborhoods also govern the relationship between the drugs coming from the favela going to nearby communities. In other words, drugs can go door to door - a kilo of cocaine can leave the favela and be at a customer's door in Ipanema in minutes. In addition, the gangs are very well armed. According to Daniel, the ADA has AK-47s, M-16s and even anti-aircraft weapons... all superior to police issued weaponry. All this, however, doesn't stop the police from trying to stem the drug trade. The police have launched numerous early morning raids on the favelas, resulting in shoot outs that can last all day... they take place as many residents are on their way to work.

According to Daniel, out of the entire population of Rocinha, there are about 1,000 ADA gang members. The drug lords, however, seem to exercise a benign influence over Rocinha. In other words, as Daniel mentioned, the ADA doesn't allow crack cocaine to be sold inside Rocinha, primarily because they are concerned the drug will disintegrate and weaken the community that exists there as it does in every other community. Of course, though, there is little government control over the events of the favela, which means that anything the ADA wants to accomplish inside the favela will go unchecked by the residents - let's keep in mind, however, that "might makes right" has no place in a democracy. The number of people residing in the favelas makes it a huge social and economic problem for Brazil that eventually must be addressed by the government on a much larger scale.

There is no way to capture the entirety of life inside the favela during a single afternoon tour, however it was also hard to ignore the gritty and turbulent reality that the residents of Rocinha have to deal with on a daily basis. As Daniel said along the tour, "the same guy who shakes your hand in the favela will mug you on Ipanema beach." In addition, what is unique to many countries in the developing world is that wealthy and poor live so close to one another - opportunities, both legal and illegal, quickly result from this proximity. The favela is a small city within a larger city, teeming with life, run by those whose welfare has little to do with that of the community they live in, and also the only choice for poor rural dwellers eager to take advantage of the financial opportunities that urban life offers. TW and I were both grateful that we got to learn a little more about favelas and a side of Rio we would not have been exposed to had we not gone on this tour.





August 06, 2009

A Guided Tour Through the Rocinha Favela in Rio de Janeiro Pt. 1

By Red Sox Steve

During my recent trip to Brazil and Argentina, my friend (I'll call her Travel Woman - TW - here because I don't have permission to use her name) and I journeyed from Buenos Aires all the way to Rio de Janeiro, hitting a number of towns in between. Travel Woman and I are adventurers - we enjoyed seeing the sites in different cities, relying on our trusty Lonely Planet to guide us on our journey. We stopped in Posadas, St. Ignacio and Puerto Iguazu during the Argentinean portion of our journey; we then crossed into Brazil (make sure you get that visa in advance, Americans!) going from Foz do Iguazu to Paraty via the Sao Paolo bus station. From Paraty, we went to Rio de Janeiro, the final destination on my journey - with a pseudonym like "Travel Woman", I'm guessing you won't be surprised to hear that she spent TWICE AS LONG in South America on this trip as I did - I was there for 3 weeks, she for 6!

That's a general overview of the trip - a journey which I hope will provide me with a number of columns in the future, but that's not what we're going to talk about today. Today, I want to discuss one experience on one tour that I had in Rio. No doubt, when I got to Rio, I was in awe at the beaches, the "beautiful people" enjoying the sand and surf blocks away from an urban environment. The way the mountains sprout up throughout the entire city, literally defining and delineating sections of Rio in a way that only nature can (entire rivers separate the Bronx from Manhattan, Queens and Brooklyn from Manhattan, and Staten Island is, well, an island...!). Rio, when seen from one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, the Cristo Redentor ("Christ the Redeemer"), is a picturesque landscape combining a densely packed urban location and an unforgiving mountainous terrain - a beautiful city.

So, after getting a feel for Rio by taking public buses to and from the Cristo, and seeing the sandy beaches and muted airplane traffic from so high up, TW and I decided to go on a tour of one of the most intense urban settings in Latin America, a place that in my view is a step up from a shanty town, certainly NOT a squatter's village, has been depicted in numerous movies and, when taken together, a place where 1.4 million of Rio's 7 million residents reside - a favela.

We were given the opportunity, through the Be A Local Tour Group, to take a tour of what some say is the largest favela in all of Latin America, Rocinha (pronounced ho-SEEN-yuh). TW and I looked at each other and first gave it some thought. What are the implications of a tour through a neighborhood, especially an impoverished one? Is there something morally void about wanting to photograph the disadvantaged way of life that exists in the favela, treating it as some sort of zoo where we are so curious about the "wildlife" there that we feel the need to objectify it through touring? On the other hand, we are, after all, explorers of the globe humanity occupies. We had both seen films centered around life in the favelas, such as City of God, City of Men (sequel to City of God) and Favela Rising, and we want to build our awareness about life in Rio - not just a sun-kissed, samba dancing Rio, but the more earthy, gritty, urban experience which is replicated in large cities throughout Latin America in some form or another. This article would end right here if we chose the former - the bus picked us up at our hostel in Copacabana and we were on our way.

Rocinha is in the southern part of Rio, just west of a section of the city called Gavea. It is nestled between two small mountains and faces Praia Barra ("Barra beach"). We started our tour at the base of the favela, and no, we weren't in Kansas anymore... just before the tour bus reached the dropoff point, Daniel, who did an excellent job throughout the tour, gave us the skinny:

1) No pictures without permission - the favela is run by drug gangs and we are just tourists. The gangs certainly don't want any attention and they don't want to be photographed.

2) Stay together and pay attention - we are going to do a lot of walking and don't want anyone to stray from the group.

3) Jump on a mototaxi which will take you to the top of the favela.

I get 1 and 2, but was he kidding about us having to ride motorcycles to get where we were going? This mototaxi trip was no joke. We started at the bottom of the hill, and the mototaxis were there, seemingly waiting for the tour bus to arrive. It was an "eeney-meeney-miney-mo" moment. Was I choosing my preferred vehicle of death, playing the Brazilian version of Russian roulette, or would we actually make it, knowing there is no way for me to communicate with the driver seeing as how I speak zero Portuguese and he speaks zero english? I'm here, so you know the answer, but the ride up to the top was pretty scary.

How do you say, "the best defense is a good offense" in Portuguese? My driver was aggressively dodging and weaving through vehicles and pedestrians during our trip up the single, windy road. I made sure to hold on tight enough to stay alive, but not so tight that I didn't strangle the guy... I don't want the American consulate to have to call my parents telling them my brains were splattered all over the road, and there were many other reasons to make sure I safely got where I was going.

On the way up, it was hard to pay attention to anything besides my personal safety, but once we were all off the motorcycles, our surroundings were immediately noticeable. Daniel pointed out a few things - first, the population of Rocinha was 200,000 people (approximately the size of Providence, RI). More importantly, there was only a small post office and a small health center which served the entire population - if you wanted mail, it wasn't delivered to you, you had to go to the post office to pick it up yourself. In addition, the water ran every 3 hours for 30 minutes, which means that people had to make sure to collect some water and do their best to be hooked up to the piping system in the favela. Furthermore, electricity usage was unregulated - in other words, people plugged directly into the current coming off a utility pole, producing the very dangerous web of interconnected and unmonitored wires that you see in the picture below.

So, after a brief introduction and being given permission to take pictures, we were on foot, meandering through the labrynthine alleys of the favela. Daniel took our group to a rooftop so we could see the entire favela, as well as Barra beach just beyond its borders. The views were amazing, as you can see from the photos below:

At this point, we learned some interesting information about the history of the favela. This type of living situation started to emerge in Rio in the 1920s. At that time, more and more people started to migrate into the cities in order to secure employment and income. Jobs in rural areas were scarce and Rio had already been an economic center and the capital of Brazil for over 150 years. Rocinha sprouted up because wealthy people lived around it - Ipanema, Gavea and Copacabana have been wealthy neighborhoods for at least the entire 20th century. In order to secure service-type jobs in those communities, it became economical for people to live close to them, causing the formation of Rocinha. Although there isn't very much that is safe about life in the favela, the people who live there do so very cheaply - they can rent rooms or apartments for anywhere from US$100 to US$200 a month, giving themselves access to Brazil's wealthiest city in the process.

One of the problems in Rocinha today is that the population is quickly expanding. Because there is little vertical construction taking place, residents are continuing to spread the favela farther and farther into the forest areas located at the base of the surrounding mountains. Because this becomes an issue of convenient settlement for new residents at the cost of environmental destruction, the government is taking measures to prevent the continued cutting down of trees. As I understood Daniel, he mentioned that residents found a way to circumvent this, enabling new construction and pushing the perimeter of the favela even further.

(to be continued...)





June 25, 2009

Detroit in the 17th and 18th Centuries

By Red Sox Steve

Up to the start of the 17th century, indigenous people in Michigan were largely interacting with other indigenous people when dealing outside their own tribe. Just after the turn of the century, French explorers who had arrived in the area were the first European contacts made by the indigenous tribes. Stated French aims in the region were to create a colony and find a westward route to the Far East. In 1603, a French expedition travelled into the St. Lawrence River, and by 1608, Samuel de Champlain, a member of that expedition founded Quebec City. "Habitation de Quebec" of "New France" would serve as a fur trading outpost in order to build relations with the natives. From here, military alliances were soon forged with Algonquin and Huron nations - the region's furs were traded by the Indians in exchange for metals, guns, alcohol and clothing.

In 1610, de Champlain's protege, Étienne Brülé, left the Quebec settlement and was sent to live among Algonquins and then Hurons, ultimately learning Iroquois culture and gaining acceptance among indigenous tribes. Brülé continued going west, following the St. Lawrence and ended up at the northern end of Georgian Bay; he was the first European to see Lake Huron within a few years of his arrival in Quebec.

Starting in 1621, Brülé began another expedition into the Great Lakes, this time going west along Lake Huron's northern shore. When he reached the Manitoulin (between Lake Huron and the Georgian Bay), he came across copper deposits, so valuable to local tribes for centuries, and moved through Sault Sainte Marie and the St. Marys River, becoming the first European to enter Lake Superior. A dispute over the St. Lawrence Valley with British explorers led to Quebec falling under British control for a year in 1628, and Brule was killed at the age of 41 in 1633 when he fell out of favor with Huron tribes.

Before the end of the 17th century, the fur trade ran along a 3,000 mile route with one terminus in Montreal and extending through northern Michigan, controlled by French interests in the region. Although its roots are in the incidental trading of animal pelts among fishermen, fur trading grew considerably through the 17th century. French traders Pierre-Esprit Radisson and Médard Chouart des Groseilliers explored north and west beyond Lake Superior, expanding both the possibilities for profit and control of territory in the region. Furthermore, explorers Robert de LaSalle and Jacques Marquette claimed much of the Great Lakes and Ohio and Mississippi River valleys as French territory. By 1671, the competing English Hudson Bay Company had also become an important company in the fur trade, and as a result, French interests were under threat.

In 1673, the French constructed Fort Frontenac on Lake Ontario and in 1679, had built a ship named Le Griffon, a 45 ton warship and the first sailing ship in the Great Lakes to buttress their interests in the region. In 1694, New France's governor, Louis de Buade Comte de Frontenac, appointed local filibuster, explorer, trapper, mariner and alcohol and fur trader Antoine Laumet de la Mothe, sieur de Cadillac, to manage St. Ignace, a fort on Michigan's Upper Peninsula. With a 1701 charter from Louis XIV, Cadillac founded a trading post much further south in Michigan called Fort Ponchartrain du Detroit, at the end of the Detroit River and the present-day site of Detroit, Michigan.

The Detroit River had already been named by the French, its meaning arising from the French Rivierie du Detroit ("River of the Strait") after it was explored in the late 1670s. On July 24, 1701, Cadillac arrived in Detroit with 100 soldiers, missionaries, and colonists from Montreal, founding Fort Pontchartrain on a location now bordered by Larned Street, Griswold Street, and the Civic Center in downtown Detroit. The fort was named in honor of Louis Phélypeaux de Pontchartrain, minister of the French colonies; settlement around the fort by the Algonquins (who were sympathetic to the French) was promoted, especially due to tensions with Iroquois. Cadillac, because he was allegedly trading with the British, was removed by Ponchartrain, later appointed governor of French Louisiana in 1710, and was briefly imprisoned in the Bastille prison due to the influence of his numerous enemies in Quebec and Paris.

The subsequent decades saw Indian tribal conflict precipitate around the fort. In 1706, Ottawas attacked the Miami tribe who then sought refuge in the fort. Around 30 Ottawas were killed, and in retaliation for the initial attack, Miami indians attacked an Ottawa village. Because the fort's commander, Étienne de Veniard, Sieur de Bourgmont (Cadillac was away), was criticized after a priest and French sergeant were killed, he and a few of his soldiers deserted their service. In 1712, Cadillac was replaced by Charles Regnault, Sieur Dubuisson, and when the Fox tribe heard of the leadership change, they attacked the fort along with the Sac and Mascoutens.

When the attack came, French sympathetic Ottawa and Huron tribes were not in the area, however assistance arrived from Jean Baptiste Bissot, Sieur de Vincennes, commander of the French settlement at Kekionga (present day Fort Wayne, Indiana). After Dubuisson sent messages to Ottawa and Huron tribes hastening their arrival, the Fox were trapped and fled to Windmill Point (now Grosse Pointe). After four days of fighting the Fox surrendered to their attackers, one term of which was the release of families of the warriors - after the Fox were disarmed, however, the French killed all the Fox present in an event now known around Grosse Pointe as the Fox Indian Massacre.

In Europe in the mid-18th century, the Seven Years War pitted Britain and Prussia against numerous other nations, including France. The fact that the British and the French opposed each other on one the other side of the Atlantic was not lost on the colonies, resulting in what is known as the French and Indian War. In 1760, Fort Detroit was turned over to the British Army's Rogers' Rangers, just after French surrender at Montreal. By 1763, the Treaty of Paris had been signed ending the Seven Years War, and across the Atlantic, the French lost all their American colonies to the British. After the British took over the fort and economic control of the colonies, their primary interest in Michigan was fur trading, and settlement by whites was not specifically promoted by the new colonial power. As a result, there were only a few hundred white settlers in the area.

Due to concern that the British would try to punish native populations who had aligned with French interests, Ottawa war chief Pontiac called about 500 warriors from Ottawa, Ojibwa, Potawatomi and Huron tribes to a meeting in what is now Lincoln Park, Michigan in April 1763. There, they planned to attack British held Fort Detroit. Initial attempts to infiltrate the fort were rebuffed by the British, however by May, natives began a series of attacks to break British resistance. Although there were successful raids by Pontiac's warriors, their supply of gunpowder was limited and reinforcements reached the fort within months. By October, the Indian attackers had lost much zeal - winter was coming and the possibility of French assistance was not materializing. Pontiac sent a message of peace to the fort's general and withdrew the Ottawa from Detroit.

During the American Revolution, Fort Detroit's main contribution to the effort was to arm native populations, who would attack American settlements to the southeast. By late 1778, interim British Captain Richard Lernoult began construction on a new fortress, just to the south of Fort Detroit called Fort Lernoult. The American Revolution ended with the signing of the Treaty of Paris in 1783, and Michigan became part of the new country, the United States of America. The region encompassing present day Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan and Wisconsin and northeastern Minnesota became known as the "Northwest Territory" until Ohio was admitted to the Union as a state in 1803. Under the 1794 Jay Treaty between the Americans and British, Forts Detroit and Lernoult along with the surrounding settlement were finally surrendered by the British.






June 18, 2009

Indigenous People in the Great Lakes Region Before European Exploration

By Red Sox Steve

One of the most popular theories for migration into North America is based on evidence discovered during a construction project in New Mexico in the 1920s. Workers dug up what appeared to be arrowheads while building a road in Clovis, New Mexico. Since that time, further discoveries of what has come to be known as the "Clovis point" have been found throughout much of North America. Although Clovis points were widely believed to be related to the first inhabitants of North America and are over 10,000 years old, similar findings in South America date early habitation to over 30,000 years ago. Nevertheless, finding Clovis points has allowed archaeologists to posit theories of prehistoric migration patterns in order to develop an understanding of Indian settling of the Americas.

By about 8000 BC, a warming period had begun, leaving behind what would be the final Ice Age. Glaciers melted, leaving a great deal of moisture behind in the form of lakes, rivers and swamps. Within a few thousand years, deciduous (trees that change with the seasons) and cone-bearing trees would appear; it is thought that North America evolved to its present climate by 5000 BC. Additional theories as to extinction of large mammals such as the wooly mammoth revolve around the prevalence of humans and their hunting tools.

The theory espoused by archaeologists that hunters came across a land bridge, which has now been submerged by the Bering Strait near Alaska, differs among numerous sources only in its timeline. Although a vast sheet of ice covered much of North America, the land bridge region, now referred to as Beringia, was only thought to experience light snow fall, due to the Pacific Ocean wind patterns. This made it relatively easy to migrate into North America. Although clear evidence places migration at about 7000 BC, there is additional information that these "Paleo-Indians" were already well scattered across the continent by about 8000 BC.

Without a doubt, the dates associated with various eras of post Ice Age Indian tribes are very general. The Paleo-Indian era gave rise to the Archaic Indian era which is thought to have lasted from about 5000 BC to 1000 BC, The transitional era between these two is known as the Watershed Age, primarily as a result of the significant climate change that took place.

Much of the difference between Archaic Indians and Paleo-Indians can be found in the increasingly complex diet, tool set and wider variety of materials available. By the Archaic era, big game was now extinct, forcing tribes to hunt species that are more familiar to us today. They also fished in the newly formed rivers and lakes, in addition to gathering wild plants, and organizing migrations around ripening berry schedules and movement of animal herds. Furthermore, the Archaic Indian crafted many more tools and utensils than his Paleo-Indian predecessor - spears, harpoons, knives, scrapers, hammers, anvils and wedges were available to the Archaic Indian, and materials such as stone, wood, bone and antler now became widely used as well.

In the Great Lakes region, an Archaic Indian culture called the "Old Copper" culture existed from about 4000 to 1500 BC. The name comes from the copper objects utilized in the region, one of the earliest uses of metal among Indians north of Mexico. Natural deposits found in rock or nuggets were repeatedly heated and hammered to make tools and ornaments.

The end of the Archaic Indian period is provided by scholars in order to facilitate the study of ancient North American tribes, again, however the dates are not absolute. The phase of Indian life following the Archaic era is known as the Formative period. The Formative period is commonly defined by farming, animal domestication, existence of villages, skilled craftsmanship, religious ceremony and further evolution of discrete tribal customs. By this measure, many of the traits were developed during the Archaic period, however, many typical Formative era practices did not permeate North America until about 1000 BC.

During the Formative period Michigan's Indian population grew out of both Algonquin and Iroquois roots in what is known as the Northeast Culture Area. This area extends from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mississippi River, and from the Great Lakes to the Ohio Valley, and even includes Canada. Most of the Indians spoke dialects that originated from Algonquian and Iroquois and shared a number of cultural traits as well. The various Northeast Iroquois included the Cayuga, Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga, Seneca, and Tuscarora—as well as the Erie, Huron (Wyandot), Neutral, Susquehannock, and Tionontati. The Algonquians in this region are known as the Great Lakes Algonquians - Chippewa (Ojibway), Menominee, Ottawa, and Potawatomi.

When speaking of the collective Iroquois nation, the Iroquois refer to themselves as the Haudenosaunee ("ho-dee-no-SHOW-nee"), for "people of the longhouse." The Haudenosaunee were organized into the Iroquois League, also known as the Iroquois Confederacy. In about 1570 the Haudenosaunee formed the League of Five Nations - Cayuga, Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga, and Seneca.

Two men brought the five tribes together, forming the League: Deganawida, the Peacemaker, a Huron prophet from the north, who had a vision of united tribes involving a Tree of Great Peace; and Hiawatha, a Mohawk medicine man, who paddled through Haudenosaunee country preaching unity and carrying a belt symbolizing the Great Law of Peace. In the early 1700s, when the Tuscarora migrated to New York from North Carolina, the alliance became the League of Six Nations.

For the Algonquians, intertribal organization came in the form of confederacies - the Abenaki Confederacy, the Wappinger Confederacy, and the Powhatan Confederacy to name a few. Relative to the Iroquois League, Algonquian confederacies were much looser networks of villages and bands. Algonquians traded together, helped one another in times of conflict, and the confederacies had a grand sachem (chief) which would hold authority over tribal sachems. The structure of authority within and among the tribes was subject to numerous interpretations - in some tribes, the grand sachem was an absolute ruler, while in others, sagamores (those in charge of a village or band) would have their conflicts mediated by sachems in intertribal councils.

In the Great Lakes area, instead of a grand sachem, it was more common to have two chiefs for each tribe, the peace chief and the war chief. The first was a hereditary position while the second was chosen based on his military prowess in times of war. Some tribes also had a third leader, the ceremonial leader who served as a shaman or even a medicine man.

Very early in the 17th century, however, the history of the Indians living in the Great Lakes region would face a new challenge. European explorers coming west would alter tribal relationships and change the economic, military and political reality of the region forever.

(To be continued...)





June 11, 2009

Poland - Partition, the 20th Century, and Post-Communist Existence

By Red Sox Steve

Continued from here:

In efforts to resist the partitioning of its nation, Poles sought but were unable to obtain British and French support. As a result, Poland was forced to enter into a partitioning agreement with enemy Prussia in 1790. By the Polish Constitution of 1791, a Polish middle class was formed, threatening Russian ideology, buttressed by the results of the French Revolution. In early 1793, Prussia and Russia obtained more land during the Second Partitioning of Poland.

Sensing dissatisfaction among Poles at having surrendered about 30% of its land to its enemies, Tadeusz Kościuszko, a Polish military leader, led a revolt against Russia and Prussia in Poland and Lithuania in 1794. As a result, Poland's neighbors sought to eliminate any evidence of an independent Polish state. In October 1795, Polish, Prussian and Russian representatives signed a treaty, dividing the remaining territories of the Commonwealth between their three countries.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Poland's independence and territory were both in the nation's past. Russia acquired much of Lithuania and the Ukraine, Austria had much of the territory to the south and southeast of Warsaw, and Prussia controlled northern central and northwestern Poland. Napoleonic conquest over Prussia in the early 1800s temporarily established a Duchy of Warsaw which also later reclaimed some Austrian land in Poland. However, as Napoleon was retreating from an unconquered Russia, the Russians, Prussians and Austrians reclaimed parts of the Duchy for themselves as of 1815.

After the Congress of Vienna again created a fractured Polish state, the Russians granted the newly formed "Congress Kingdom of Poland" various freedoms, including an independent army and a parliament. Before the newly established kingdom was 5 years old, Russian tsars abused the absolute rule they held over it. Alexander I, who would later institutionalize Christianity in Russia, removed some of the freedoms enjoyed by citizens of the Polish kingdom. By the 1820s, tensions between the Russian government and its Polish subjects increased to the point where parliamentary sessions were held in secret in Poland.

By 1829, Orthodox Christianity had taken root in Russian government and Nicholas I had succeeded Alexander. Papal bulls could not be read in Poland without Russian permission and many democratic institutions in Polish government were terminated in favor of an administration appointed by the Russian government. By late 1830, the Russian government had designs on using the Polish military to fight against revolutionaries in France and Belgium, which would be a violation of the military independence previously granted by Russia. Armed Polish rebels forced Russian leaders out of power, and a Polish-led revolutionary dictatorship took office in what would later be called the "November Uprising". Unfortunately, due to an overwhelming military response by the Russians and infighting by the Poles during a lull in hostilities, the Russians would take back Warsaw and crack down on the Poles more severely as a result. By late 1831, the Uprising was over and in 1832 the Polish constitution, army, and legislative assembly were abolished.

When Alexander II, Nicholas' son came to power in 1855, Russia was embroiled in conflict against France, the UK and Sardinia (now Italy) in the Crimean War. After Russia ultimately gave in to an Allied coalition, Alexander commenced with a number of reforms in his kingdom, some of which were intended to loosen Russia's grip over Poland. Nevertheless, the desire for Polish nationalism hadn't been satisfied and Polish citizens were inspired by the ideas espoused by the German Karl Marx and reminded of their ideals by the Polish composer Frederic Chopin. Because of a number of uprisings, in 1861 martial law was introduced and public gatherings were banned.

Soon after, meetings of aspiring revolutionaries took place throughout Europe, and ultimately split into two separate ideological factions. The Reds organized peasants, workers and members of the church, while the Whites represented the landowners and bourgeoisie (middle-class whose status in society was not derived from aristocratic lineage, but rather employment, education and wealth). The Reds operated primarily in Poland while the Whites were organized in Lithuania.

The Polish provisional government declared in a manifesto "all sons of Poland free and equal citizens without distinction of creed, condition and rank." When hostilities began in 1863, the Russians had 90,000 men at their disposal, while the Polish government relied on a scattered guerrilla-based fighting force. By May 1864, Russian forces were victorious and the Russian government sought to eliminate any evidence of a free and independent Poland, starting with efforts in schools and churches.

The national mood in Poland prior to the end of the 19th century, has been described as one of resignation. Germany was able to grow its empire in the early 1870s, Russia was bent on eradicating a Polish identity and Austria-Hungary, although quite lenient, retained control over Galicia in southern Poland. At the same time, considerable pressure was placed on the Roman Catholic Church by both Russia and Germany.

The increase in both mining and manufacturing in German and Russian controlled regions of Poland helped to alter the prevailing social and economic forces on the Polish people during the late 19th century. Urbanization increased and the power of the aristocracy decreased during this time as well. Millions joined the urban labor force, while millions of others left Poland for North America and other parts of the world. Because much of the peasant population was unable to find employment, this gave rise to urban-based social tension which ultimately led to the formation of socialist parties. In 1905, the Polish Socialist Party was the largest socialist party in the Russian Empire. In addition, the extreme right was represented as well - by focusing on nationalism and hostility towards Jews, the National Democracy of Roman Dmowski was able to gain support among some Poles.

After the start of World War I, Poland found it had greater leverage over those that partitioned it more than a century earlier. Russia defended Serbia and allied with Britain and France as Germany and Austria-Hungary opposed them as part of the Central Powers. Poland was therefore able to form national organizations in Galicia, as permitted by Austria-Hungary and the Polish National Committee, as allowed by the Russians. Briefly during the war, the Germans and Austrians supported the formation of a new Kingdom of Poland. This kingdom had its own parliament and government as well as its own currency. What was called the Regency Kingdom of Poland would end up being the fourth and final monarchy in Polish history.

Leftist leader Józef Klemens Piłsudski assisted the Central Powers in defeating Russia in order to gain Polish independence. This proved a solid strategy because, as the war continued, the Germans and Austrians were able to push Russia back towards the east. During the conflict, 1 million Polish refugees fled eastward for Russia, 2 million troops in total fought on behalf of all the occupying powers and nearly a half-million of them died. Much of the conflict zone was uninhabitable as a result of the fighting.

During 1917, both the US entering into the conflict to strengthen the Allies and the revolution in Russia weakening Russian forces on the Eastern Front would bring about the end of the war. Russia would finally be forced into signing a peace treaty which would grant all Polish lands to the Central Powers (Germany and Austria-Hungary). Before the year was over, Germany and Austria-Hungary created a puppet Kingdom of Poland and the United States gained greater influence over the Allied coalition. One of the reasons Poland supported the Allied forces was the result of the thirteenth of US President Woodrow Wilson's fourteen points read before US Congress in January 1918:

"Establishment of an independent Poland with access to the sea."

By late 1918, Austria-Hungary was defeated and the Allies were victorious. In November,
Józef Piłsudski was released from a German prison and ultimately given the title of "Chief of State" by the Regency Council of the Polish Kingdom. Sovereign Poland, free of any obligations to Russia, Germany, or Austria was the result.

One of Pilsudski's earliest goals after the end of the war was expansion of Polish territory. In May 1920, 200,000 Polish soldiers marched on Kiev, but was defeated by the Red Army and the Cossacks. A few months later, Soviet forces established themselves just outside Warsaw. Pilsudski formed a counteroffensive starting a conflict known as the Battle of Warsaw. By October 1920, an armistice between Poland and the Soviet Union had been achieved; by 1921, Poland's land claims in the Ukraine and White Russia (present-day Belarus) were granted by the Treaty of Riga entered into between Poland and the Soviets. In what some historians call one of the most important clashes of the 20th century, 50,000 Polish soldiers were killed, while 150,000 were lost on the Soviet side.

Pilsudski, as a result of the conflict, was in control of territory that had strong ties to both Poland and Russia. Because of his desire to remain in control of all the nation's territory, his leadership style grew more and more dictatorial, and when he left power in 1924, the government quickly became ineffectual. Just two years later, however, Pilsudski gathered three army regiments and marched on Warsaw. By May, although Pilsudski was successful in overthrowing the government, he appointed a puppet leader in his place; he still managed to control and manipulate citizens through organizations like the secret police. Just before he died in 1935, Pilsudski managed to negotiate a non-aggression agreement with Germany, which guaranteed territorial rights for Poland for 10 years.

As a result of the signing of the Treaty of Versailles which formally ended WWI, Poland was able to acquire the territory of East Prussia. Hitler, subsequently rising to power in Germany, appealled to Germany's sense of nationalism by promising to liberate the Germans still in East Prussia as well as the area known as the Free City of Danzig ("Danzig"). As Hitler's desire for Danzig grew, the Poles mistrusted his intentions to construct a connecting highway and appealed to the British and French for protection from him.

On April 28, 1939, Germany withdrew the non-aggression treaty it signed with Polish Chief of State Pilsudski 5 years earlier. By late August, the British and French signed treaties to protect Poland if it was attacked. On August 29, the German Foreign Minister outlined to the British Ambassador Sir Neville Henderson the terms which would ensure peace in regards to Poland - Danzig would have to be given back to Germany, and there would be an exchange of minority populations between the two nations. When the Polish ambassador went to see the German Foreign Minister, he was still unable to sign the proposed agreement. Negotiations came to an end when it was broadcast that Poland rejected the Germany's proposals. The Germans were amassed at the Polish border, and on August 31, 1939, Hitler ordered an attack to commence the following morning.

On September 1, 1939 at 4:40 AM, the German airforce attacked Wielun; at 4:45 AM, a German battleship attacked a Polish military facility at Westerplatte in Danzig on the Baltic Sea; At 8:00 AM, German troops, still without a formal declaration of war, attacked near Mokra. Later that same day, Germans attacked at the western, southern and northern borders of Poland. By October, Poland was divided between Germany, the Soviet Union, Lithuania and Slovakia.

By mid-September, many government officials had already fled to Romania. The Polish military commander in chief moved to France with the intent of reforming the military there. General Władysław Sikorski was instructed by the exiled leadership to form a government out of Paris. France immediately recognized the new government, and by 1939 had formed a parliamentary government in exile. Although it had no legislative authority, the Rada Narowada ("National Council") had some moral authority, as conferred by its first president, a well known pianist, composer, nationalist and patriot, Ignacy Paderewski. Subsequently, Poland was Britain's only ally after France fell and before Germany invaded the Soviet Union. After the Soviets entered the war, the Polish government signed a treaty with them, promising full cooperation against Germany. As a result, much of the Polish military was controlled by the Soviet Union for the rest of the war.

In the area of Poland under Soviet occupation, there was a quick assumption of control of many aspects of Polish life by the Soviets. Polish universities were closed and reopened as Soviet universities where much of the focus was on Soviet propaganda. Polish literature and language studies were dismantled and books were burned; Polish currency was removed from circulation without any exchange - the population lost their entire life savings overnight. Polish political groups were broken up and all existing organizations were subordinated to the Communist Party.

In continuing efforts at "sovietization" of Poland, religions were persecuted and churches were closed. Many members of the clergy were discriminated against via higher taxes, mandatory conscription, arrests and deportations. Agriculture was made collective, but food was scarce; although Polish citizens were given Soviet citizenship, many refugees refused to provide their mandatory consent and were thus threatened with repatriation to Nazi-occupied Poland.

By the time the war ended in late 1945, Poland had become an entirely different country. During the interwar years, it was a capitalist country emerging from both feudalism and partition. During the war, the Polish interregnum was portrayed by the Soviets as evil and exploitative. Prior to the war, Catholicism dominated a nation heading towards a self-determinative future. Because Stalin persecuted religions and closed churches, it became one occupied by a foreign government focused on atheism. Most telling of all was that prior to the war, Poland was a diverse and tolerant European nation, but as of 1946, Poland had lost 20% of its citizens in addition to almost 100% of its ethnic minority population.

In 1947, the United States initiated the European Recovery Program (commonly referred to as the "Marshall Plan"). US Secretary of State George Marshall's idea was that the rapidly growing US economy would subsidize growth in Europe. At a meeting in Paris among European officials, Soviet Foreign Minister Vyacheslav M. Molotov walked out, calling for Soviet rejection of the plan. Because the Soviets saw it as a system that would promote American-style capitalism and economic unity throughout Europe, Soviet premier Joseph Stalin pressured Czechoslovakia, Poland, and Hungary into rejecting it as well. The Polish government in exile had little control over Polish affairs during the war, due to the grip the Soviets held over much of the country, which only strengthened as the post-war world was being sorted out.

Stalin countered the Marshall Plan with an idea intended to further unify Eastern Europe. In 1949, the Council for Mutual Economic Assistance ("Comecon") was formed among the Soviet Union, Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Poland, and Romania. By 1955, 2 years after Stalin's death, and in response to the arming of West Germany in the US-led NATO coalition, the Warsaw Pact was formed after a meeting in its eponymous city. The pact's original members were Albania, Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Hungary, Poland, Romania, and the Soviet Union. The pact, originally called the "Warsaw Treaty of Friendship, Cooperation and Mutual Assistance" extended Soviet power in the region; furthermore, it granted supreme military control of all Warsaw Pact nations to the Soviets.

Before the end of the 1950s, Władysław Gomułka, who had been a member of the Polish Communist Party since 1926 was appointed head of the Polish United Workers Party in 1956. Initially, Gomulka's rise was welcomed by Polish citizens, as he sought to resist Soviet influence. However, this resistance as well as the liberalization of Polish elections was a relative comparison, as compared to other Eastern European nations at the time. Soviet control over Poland remained highly repressive, especially by Western standards. There were propaganda campaigns against Western Germany, infused by communist ideology, and during the 1960s, Soviet top-down focus on heavy industry and military development served to slow the economy rather than stimulate it.

The 1960s were tumultuous in Poland and much of Eastern Europe - the economy was crumbling, but the Soviets, by fixing food prices low, prevented urban unrest. In 1968, a theatrical play was banned because it allegedly contained "anti-Soviet" references, although it was originally written in 1824. In spite of public protests, the Polish army participated in the suppression of a 1968 uprising against the Soviets in Czechoslovakia.

Economically, the 1970s were no easier for Poland. Despite further economic and social liberalization allowing freer international travel by Poles as well as inducements made by the government for Polish expatriates to reinvest in their native country, prices swung violently. Initially, wages increased, raising living standards for all Poles, but because of the 1973 energy crisis, food prices and inflation grew quickly. Polish foreign debt grew 60 times in 4 years to 1975. Edward Gierek, who succeeded Gomulka as First Secretary, was losing control of the economy. By the late 1970s, food prices had risen again and Communist regime's influence began to erode, especially after a 1979 visit by native Pole Karol Józef Wojtyła, better known as Pope John Paul II.

The significance of the former Archbishop of Krakow becoming head of the entire Catholic Church as well as the tumultuous events of the 1970s served to deligitimize much of the power and control of the Communist regime. Not only was the papal visit a sign of the importance the pope had in his native country (a quarter of the population attended his outdoor masses), but protests led in the industrialized city of Danzig by a portly electrician would ultimately lead to the undoing of the Communist regime.

Riots, bloodshed, financial tumult and widespread repression characterized much of Polish life since WWII. The Workers Defense Committee, an organization that had formed during the 1970s in response to many of these events codified resistance to the Communist regime. However, in Danzig in August 1980, strikers at the Lenin Shipyard in Danzig locked themselves in the yard, communicated with other striking groups and presented a list of demands to the government. By September, a new party was formed which replaced the Workers Defense Committee - the new party was called Solidarity and it was led by Lech Walesa, the portly electrician who would later rise to become President of Poland.

The Polish government had recognized Solidarity as a legal organization, although this placed considerable pressure on both the Soviet Politburo and Polish head of state, General Wojciech Jaruzelski. Soviet Premier Leonid Brezhnev insisted that Jaruzelski crack down on Solidarity and even moved Soviet and other Warsaw Pact troops to the Polish border in 1981. By December of that year, Lech Walesa and other Solidarity leaders were imprisoned, and Poland was under martial law. Solidarity, although in a repressed state, continued to exist - the leaders were quietly released, Solidarity went underground while the Western media drew its attention to the situation in Poland.

Soviet control over much of the Eastern bloc was loosening, however its support for Warsaw nations seemed to be endless. By 1985, Soviet premier Mikhail Gorbachev was in power, and Jaruzelski and the Communist regime were weakened, mostly as a result of the rule by martial law over the Polish. The ruling powers were simultaneously opposed by a stronger Solidarity. Gorbachev had repealed the Brezhnev doctrine, which stated that any attempt to abandon Communism would be met with force. By the late 1980s, unrest in Poland, especially strikes by Solidarity led the Communist government to approach the party for Round Table Talks which resulted in the recognition of power in the legislature and president, who would be the sole chief executive of Poland.

Although the Soviets considered the June 1989 Polish elections semi-free in that only a small number parliamentary seats were restricted to Solidarity members, Solidarity captured every single available seat in the new Sejm, and 99 of 100 seats in the Senate. Later that year, the Communist Jaruzelski barely won the presidential election while the new Polish prime minister was a Solidarity member, Tadeusz Mazowiecki. By the next year, after the fall of the Berlin wall, Lech Walesa became president of Poland. By July 1991, the Warsaw Pact had been dissolved, and within a matter of months the Soviet Union as well.

Although the immediate economic result of Polish sovereignty was hyperinflation and a high national deficit, Poland slowly started to grow into a post-Soviet modernizing nation. GDP rose throughout the 1990s, and new technologies and an international focus replaced a stagnated and isolated economy. Poland received $50 billion in FDI over a 10 year period ending in 2005 and had Germany as one of its main trading partners. The agricultural component of Poland's economy which is now centuries old today makes Poland the leading producer of potatoes and rye in Europe. Some historians say that the only stagnation in Poland's growth is social, resulting from high expectations based on the intense political and economic changes that took place at the end of the 1980s and early 1990s.

Through the 1990s, political power shifted to the hands of the Communist party, which had then reorganized itself as the Democratic Left Alliance (SLD). The SLD was voted into power in coalition with the Polish Peasants' Party (PSL), a socialist-leftist party in 1993. By 1995, Walesa, voted to a 5 year term in 1990, lost the presidential election to SLD leader Aleksander Kwasniewski. By 1997, Polish values of Catholicism, patriotism and family asserted themselves in the election of new Solidarity leader Marian Krzaklewski as parliamentary deputy. Although Solidarity managed to coalesce a fragmented religious and right-wing, Krzaklewski's party was defeated in 2000, by the SLD. Because Solidarity was not voted to the new parliament in 2001, both the SLD and the PSL formed a coalition, this time with a smaller center-left Union of Labor (UP).

In the first decade of the 21st century, the SLD-led government managed to negotiate Poland's entry into the EU, culiminating in a "yes" vote in the corresponding 2003 Polish referendum. Poland joined the EU in May 2004. However, due to scandal and an economic crisis, the SLD was overwhelmingly defeated in the parliamentary elections of September 2005.

Led by a post-Solidarity center-right coalition, the Law and Justice Party (Pis) was successful in both parliamentary elections and the presidential election of 2005 - Lech Kaczynski (PiS) was victorious over Donald Tusk of the Civic Platform (PO) (a post-Solidarity, conservative-liberal party). By 2007, however, the PO returned to parliamentary power, evidencing dissatisfaction among Poles about PiS leadership, and following the collapse of a PiS coalition. The PiS however, increased its share of the vote, at the expense of its lesser coalition partners who were unable to return to parliament. Today, the PO-led government still enjoys high levels of support among Poles. As a result, it does not wish to risk party stability by introducing bold reforms ahead of the 2010 presidential election.

By the mid 1970s, Polish acquiescence to Communist rule began to evaporate, especially as a result of the economic crises of the decade. The 1980 emergence of Solidarity crystallized Polish resistance to Soviet control. It was only a matter of time before the relationship would end. Between 1989 and 1992, Poland and the entire world's relationship with communism would change, and with it a number of former Soviet-controlled states would be granted sovereignty for the first time in a post-WWII world. The changes were relatively quick and intense, despite the fact that many Poles had desired freedom for over a decade. Since that time, Poland has remained very close to an ideological center, in my view, moving slightly right and slightly left. As a result of this centrist position, and its membership in the EU, Poland's future is promising. It should certainly celebrate not only the fact that it was able to break free of the constraints of communism, but also its rich tradition of religious and ethnic tolerance as well as a commitment to diversification and modernization of its economy.





June 05, 2009

Poland - Celtic and Germanic Expansion to the Third Partition by Russia, Prussia and Austria

By Red Sox Steve

For the last two weeks, we've looked at Turkey, a region that was home to the earliest agricultural settlements in Europe, starting in about 7000 BCE. As farming spread from the southeastern part of Europe towards the west and north, it displaced mobile hunter-gatherers with agriculturally-based organized settlements. One piece of evidence which indicates the presence of a centrally organized, sedentary lifestyle is a town or other planned settlement. Ancient settlements have been found in places as varying as windy and chilly Scotland and the marshy foothills of the Alps. One of the most famous ancient settlements, however, is in the nation we are looking at this week: Poland.

Biskupin, an outpost that arose after 1000 BCE, is well known among historians due to the amount of advance planning that went into its construction. Biskupin is located 140 miles west of Warsaw on a marshy peninsula. It was one of the first locations to have distinct and straight rows of houses, built end to end as one long structure and sub-divided into single room dwellings. Because the entire town was on top of a marsh, the streets had to be paved with wood. Biskupin was surrounded by a 20 foot wall of wood and dirt as well. There were 100 dwellings within the wall, and by 720 BCE it was thought to house around 700 people, who performed numerous professions, including metalworking. The structure and organization that went into housing and protecting Biskupin's settlers was unprecedented, particularly because of the predominance of nomadic tribes in the region.

Just after 400 BCE, during the middle part of the Iron Age, Celtic tribes started to arrive in Poland, from Bohemia and Monrovia (each, Czech Republic). In Celtic history, the era in which they commenced this expansion is known as "La Tène" (450 BCE - 50 CE, named after a location in Switzerland). During La Tène, the Celts reached their territorial peak and attacked Rome and Delphi. Moving north, they settled in the southern part of Poland. By approximately 170 CE, however, Celtic influence in southern Poland started to decline.

Furthermore, archaeologists have found evidence that Germanic tribes inhabited northwestern Poland prior to the Common Era. Named after Jastorf, a village in Lower Saxony (Germany), a proto-Germanic culture started to expand in about the 6th century BCE. From 300-100 BCE, they settled western Poland in two distinct groups - the Oder in western Pomerania (Oder River) and the Gubin, further south.

Just before the end of the 1st century BCE, Julius Caesar pushed his army into Gaul and was heading further north to Brittania. By doing this, the Roman army was able to defeat the Suebi (Germanic) tribe, which wiped out much of the population of the Oder River Basin. In the process, Rome established the Rhine River (Germany) as an artificial dividing line between Germanic and Celtic tribes. People on both sides of the Rhine, however, were of mixed ethnicity due to intermarriage, commerce and custom. Germanics arriving on the east Rhine from the north pushed other occupants across the Rhine, which made the eastern Rhine a more purely Germanic region.

Further Roman conquest, especially after the start of the 1st century CE, pushed the limits of the Roman empire to Germany. As a result, member tribes of the Suebi moved east, displacing Celtic tribes, before settling in Moravia (the Quadi, a sub-tribe of Suebi) and Bohemia (the Marcomanni, a sub-tribe of Suebi). The Marcomanni were able to conquer the Lugii who occupied that region. The Lugii tribe was well known for controlling a major trading route from the Baltic to the Roman Empire, known as the Amber Road.

The Amber Road was an ancient trade route for the transfer of amber. Amber is a tree resin, and is thick and sticky due to its chemical makeup. Because of its ability to preserve objects and to come in a wide variety of colors, it was highly coveted in empires from Rome to Greece to Egypt to Asia. The main trading route went from the Baltic coast through Prussia (northern Germany and Poland), to the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the Adriatic Sea.

Just after the beginning of the Common Era, eastern Europe was ultimately determined to be unconquerable by the Roman Empire. The Romans considered land east of the Rhine River, up to the western edge of the Baltics, to be Magna Germania ("Greater Germania") for a few centuries. Multiple dialects were spoken in this region, due to the number of tribes that migrated through the area.

The next critical movement into Poland was the migration of the Slavics. Some historians have linked a proto-Slavic culture to the Przeworsk cultural identity. Przeworsk is a city in southern Poland where historians and archaeologists first found artifacts related to this unique culture. Thus, some date Przeworsk and Slavic settlement of Poland to the 2nd century BCE. Other historians, however, link Slavic origins to areas of the Ukraine, prior to the beginning of the Common Era.

By the beginning of the 6th century, though, there is little debate about Slavic presence in present-day Poland. Cultural ornaments found in southern Poland, along with other evidence of Germanic tribes migrating from the north, lead investigators to the conclusion that the culture there was a blend of both Slavic and Germanic. Around this time, there is scant evidence of Slavic migration, which has caused researchers to postulate that Slavic identity and culture from the Danube to southern Poland was relatively uniform.

By the 8th century, discrete Slavic traditions began to appear in various parts of central and southeastern Europe. Slavic culture was dispersed and distinct enough throughout this region to designate Poland and other western Slavic regions the Western Slavic zone. Along the Warta River (western-central Poland), a Western Slavic tribe called the Polanians had settled by the 7th century. The name Polanian comes from a Slavic word for "prairie" and can be taken to mean "those who live on cleared fields." The Polanians were centered around the Kujawy region (central Poland), which was a densely populated rural area.

By the ninth century the Polanians had established trade links with the Pomeranians in the Baltic region. The Islamic Near East (considered the "Middle East" today) was the source of silver, which went to Pomerania through France and western Germany, while amber and furs went from the Baltic region southward. The massive amount of silver which passed through the hands of the Pomeranians in the 10th century is one of the reasons that extensive construction took place in Poland around the same time.

The first ruler of Poland was a leader of the Polonians (also referred to in historical research as the Poles or Polans) named Mieszko I. Mieszko, a descendant of Polonian tribal leaders and member of the Piast dynasty, ruled as Poland's first king beginning in 960. He used his own military and political skills along with Polonian wealth to increase his influence and rise to power in the region. In 965, he married Dobrava, daughter of a Bohemian prince. Soon after, he converted to Christianity, more interested in following the Roman church than the Eastern Orthodox Church adopted by many Slavs.

Before he ruled for a decade, Mieszko battled the Pomeranians, Veletians (northern Germany) and Wolinians (northern Poland) to obtain Pomerania. In the process, he sought peace with German emperor Otto I because their territories were adjacent to each other. Mieszko, before his death in 992, conquered the Polabians and Obodrites of northern and eastern Germany, and Silesia (southern Poland) to gain control of trade routes in the Oder valley. Control of the Oder valley trade routes was a way for Poland to control trade routes to both Kiev and Byzantium. In 991, Mieszko drafted a document called the "Dagome Iudex" (by some accounts, this means "I, Prince Mieszko") which outlined his kingdom's boundaries and was entrusted to the pope. The Dagome Iudex outlines boundaries that closely resemble those of modern Poland.

Although Mieszko left his kingdom to his half-German son by his second marriage, his earlier alliance with Bohemia through his first marriage came back to haunt Mieszko's family. Boleslaw, Mieszko's son through his first marriage, and of Bohemian (western Czech Republic) origin, deposed his half-brother and took the throne in 992, ruling as Boleslaw I. Boleslaw continued to rule over Pomerania and Silesia, and was able to obtain Krakow (southern Poland) during his rule as well. He sought Prussian territory, however his representative, the Bohemian bishop Adalbert, was martyred by the Prussians - they did not seek to ally with Poland. Adalbert was later canonized St. Wojciech and buried at a church in Gniezno (western Poland).

In 1000, German emperor Otto III sought a conference with Boleslaw at Gniezno, the goal of which was to advance Roman Christianity in Slavic territory. Because Germany desired Boleslaw's assistance in controlling more Slavic territory, Otto anointed Boleslaw "brother and partner of the empire" and a friend an ally of the Roman people (both references to the Holy Roman Empire, not Rome itself). German historians view this event as a subordination of Boleslaw to German imperial desires, while their Polish counterparts tend to see this as a coronation of their leader by the Holy Roman Emperor. As a result of the new alliance, Boleslaw provided Otto with the arm of St. Wojciech as a relic. In return, Boleslaw was given a replica of what is known as the "Holy Lance", a part of the imperial regalia which contains a nail from the Holy Cross. With the support of Otto, Boleslaw was able to expand his reach. He gained Polabia (northern Poland), and Prague (Bohemia), and was able to ultimately control much of Moravia and Bohemia by 1003.

Otto III died at age 22 in 1002, and relations between Poland and Germany changed quickly. Boleslaw supported a member of German nobility for the throne, Eckard I, who was then assassinated. Boleslaw then put his support behind Henry IV, Duke of Bavaria who ruled Germany as Henry II. Because of the weakened status of Germany during this tumultuous change in leadership, Boleslaw was able to occupy areas west of the Oder river as well as territory in eastern Germany. Henry permitted Boleslaw to keep much of the land he conquered, with the exception of Meissen (eastern Germany). Although relations between the nations improved, a later attempt on Boleslaw's life was found to be organized by Henry II, sundering an already tense German-Polish relationship.

Boleslaw was able to control Kiev as a result of an attack in 1018, and in 1025 was crowned king of Poland upon receipt of headdress sent by the pope. Boleslaw was Poland's first king, as recognized by the Holy Roman Empire. Tensions with Bohemia during this time led to a loss of Moravia by Boleslaw's army. Further conflict with Germany led to a retrenchment of Polish authority out of Silesia and western Pomerania as well. In 1034, Bohemians reclaimed by force the body of St. Wojciech, sent to Prussia as a Polish emissary many years earlier by Boleslaw.

Just after the start of the 12th century, a power struggle erupted as two half-brothers of the ruling Piast dynasty were given territory in Poland. Boleslaw was effectively given southern Poland, while his half-brother Zbigniew was given much of northern Poland. As a result, Boleslaw sought territory in northern Poland and allied with regional monarchs (Hungary and to outflank his rival brother, while Zbigniew sought to pressure his brother through alliance with the southern Bohemians. As a result, Boleslaw desired to compress his brother's influence through bribery (Bohemia) and attack (Pomerania). As a result of armed conflict, Zbigniew ultimately relented and Boleslaw was able to rule Poland as Boleslaw III starting in 1107.

By 1112, Boleslaw had his brother blinded to prevent Zbigniew's ascent to the throne, and had rescinded Bohemia to the Czechs. To the Polish north, Pomerania remained well within his grasp. Not only was he able to conquer the territory, but he also allied with the Holy Roman Empire to Christianize the Slavic pagans in the region. By forcefully imposing Christianity in Pomerania, Boleslaw felt he would be able to strengthen his control over the region. By 1135, just before his death, Boleslaw gave his allegiance to Holy Roman Emperor Lothair II, and was forced to pay 12 years worth of tribute to the church. Before he died in 1138, Boleslaw divided his land among his four sons, establishing a "Senioral Principle" in the process. This principle stated that the eldest son was to have ruling power over the his siblings, control a north-south strip of land running down Poland's center and control Pomerania.

Although Boleslaw's desire was to allocate lands among all his heirs and simultaneously establish central authority, the result of the Senioral Principle was an era of dissolution of power and fragmentation of the kingdom. Boleslaw's oldest son, Wladyslaw, sought to restore unity by preventing his brothers from taking power - this was confronted by the church and other regional ruling interests. As the result of a civil war, much of Poland's principalities became further divided and realigned leading to an environment of persistent warfare. In 1180, during the reign of Casimir II as Duke of Poland, there was a struggle with the aristocracy and clergy over the extent of duchy privelege in Krakow. As a result, the Council of Synod (1180) abolished the "Senior Principle" and established primogeniture - in other words, Casimir II was given perpetual right to Krakow.

Each of the smaller states, permitted to ignore the authority of the Duke of Krakow, became highly independent. They were able to establish alliances, enter into treaties and create their own tariff systems, dissolving the control of a central authority. During the 13th century, as a result of absolute power of the princes of each territory, both landowners and the church increased their jurisdiction. Because the Church was an organized institution with centralized authority, it was able to grow more powerful - gaining wealth and influence over the moral code adhered to by its subjects. At princely councils, the church and the landbarons were able to influence the affairs of each principality. Because affairs related to foreign policy, administration, and taxes were discussed at these meetings, called Colloquia, these meetings would eventually evolve into a Senate.

As a result of Mongol invasions during the 13th century, much of Galicia (southern Poland) and southern Silesia were devastated. However, because the Mongols efforts were mostly to repel European interest in the east (through invasions of much of the Slavic territory), they were not interested in an occupation of the territory. Because this was the case, many German immigrants moved into Poland, and were encouraged to do so because of the declining influence and wealth of the princes.

German immigrants in what is known as "Lesser Poland" (southern Poland) found an arable land, and were thus spared the hard labor required to work it. Because the German charter (conferring rights on German subjects) was more evolved and more easily adopted than its Polish counterpart in these regions, many Polish settlements received these new rights. Germanic legal language was adopted, and settlement was highly encouraged by the prince, as evidenced by his policy to provide all lands tax free (but not rent free) for a number of years to new settlers.

Although persecuted all over Europe during the Crusades, the Jews were well received in Poland. Prince Boleslav imposed serious penalties for acts of vandalism to Jewish cemeteries and synagogues and the statue of Kalisz was erected welcoming the Jews to this town in central Poland. Anyone who accused a Jew of murder had to provide three Gentiles and three Jews as witnesses; being unable to prove the Jewish defendant guilty meant the accuser was subject to punishment himself.

Before the end of the 13th century, German influence over the throne of Krakow increased, as a result of aggressive German behavior to control the church and the monarchy. Although initially supported by the German government, the German descendants in Poland became more Polonized, asserting a separation of Poland from Germany which would first require Poland be unified around a central authority. In 1295, the new King of Poland was Premislas II (or, Przemysł II). At the time of his anointment, Premislas had the support of the Polish clergy, and had already governed as duke of a number of Polish territories. Although he was assassinated a year later, because he accumulated a great deal of power, he had overseen the initial efforts towards Polish unification.

After Premislas' death in 1296, Wladyslaw, duke of Cuiavia (central Poland) proclaimed himself Premislas' successor and also controlled Lesser Poland and Pomerania. Because Władysław faced resistance from local lords in Lesser Poland, he had to conquer the region in 1304 to establish full authority there. Later, Wladyslaw was forced to cede control of much of the Baltic coast due to similar resistive forces there. By 1314, Wladyslaw controlled Lesser Poland, Cuiavia, Krakow, Sandomierz and Greater Poland (central/western Poland) and was able to repel Bohemian and Teutonic claims for the throne and territory. In 1320, the Pope crowned Wladyslaw king of Poland (Wladyslaw I), officially reinstating Poland as a united and independent kingdom.

Poland was ruled by Casimir III the Great, son of Wladyslaw I, for much of the 14th century. Casimir is credited with improving relations with the Teutonic Order (German religious order), the Bohemians and the Hungarians. He also conquered Galician Ruthenia (western Ukraine) to double the size of Polish territory by 1366. Domestically, he oversaw the creation of 500 agricultural villages, 70 new towns and 50 military strongholds. He established a new judicial system and changed the administration and financial structure of Poland as well. In 1364, he founded the University of Krakow, which is the second oldest university in central Europe, and still in existence today.

After the death of the heirless Casimir, the throne was claimed by his nephew, Louis of Hungary. As a result, Louis formed a union between Poland and Hungary in 1374, known as the "Privelege of Koszyce". Under this agreement, the Polish nobility agreed to allow Louis' dynasty over Poland to continue even though Louis had no sons. By the time Louis died in 1382, the union had broken up after a conflict. Polish nobility, in honoring their prior agreement, named Louis' daughter Jadwiga the new King of Poland at age 11.

Poland at this time opposed the German Teutonic Knights as well as the increasing power of the Grand Duchy of Moscow (who considered the entire Russian territory to be its property). Thus, it sought a union with Lithuania which began with the marriage of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiello (later Wladislaw II) to Queen Jadwiga in 1386, beginning what was called the Jagellion dynasty.

By 1410, the new union was able to ultimately defeat the Teutonic Knights, and by the end of the century, the dynasty's influence grew to cover Bohemia and Hungary as well as Poland and Lithuania. In 1526, however, at the Battle of Mohacs (southern Hungary), the Ottoman Empire defeated the Jagiellion army, and its king, Louis II of Hungary and Bohemia. As a result, the Austrians, under the Habsburg dynasty, were able to take control of Bohemia and Hungary. The Ottomans, in claiming much of Hungary after the defeat were now recognized as a powerful enemy by much of Europe.

The Polish-Lithuanian Union became one of the largest states in Europe. As a result of a peace agreement in 1533, the Ottoman threat had been diminished. At the same time, the population of Western Europe was increasing. This allowed the Polish-Lithuanian Union to increase its wealth as the largest supplier of grain to Europe. Although much of western Europe had begun efforts to urbanize and further incorporate capitalism, the Union was able to preserve an agrarian and rural society and economic structure.

Although much of Poland was Roman Catholic, the Roman Catholic church persecuted a number of Protestant sects. However, the Jagiellion dynasty was known for its high level of religious tolerance. By 1552, the Polish congress (Sejm) halted execution of sentences for heresy. Much of the tolerance was thought to be practical - the Union governed people with a wide variety of ethnicities and religions. It is thought that just after the mid-sixteenth century, Poland contained the largest concentration of Jews in the world.

The final king of the Jagellion dynasty, Sigismund II Augustus, was childless despite three marriages. Up to this time, Poland and Lithuania were joined by a personal union. In 1569 in Lublin, Poland, this structure changed dramatically. On July 1, 1569, the treaty of Lublin created a real union of Poland and Lithuania, and a single state called the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. This new state was to be ruled by an elected monarch acting under the authority of the Polish King and Grand Duke of Lithuania, in addition to being governed by a common Senate and parliament (Sejm).

Before the end of the 16th century, the Commonwealth was at war with Russia, capturing Russian territory in the Baltics, and ultimately defeating the Russians by 1582. The Polish-Swedish personal union was able to assert control over the Baltic Sea, however rebellion in Sweden touched off a century of warfare between Sweden and the Commonwealth. At the start of the 17th century, the Commonwealth reached its greatest territorial extent, including Smolensk (Russia) and other territories. By 1629, however, the Commonwealth gave much of Livonia (Baltic region) back to the Swedes.

Just before the second half of the 17th century, Polish repression of its Ukrainian holdings touched off a firestorm of rebellion. Local peasantry and Cossacks (militaristic communities of eastern Europe and southern Russia) rebelled under the leadership of a wealthy Ukrainian landowner, Hetman Bogdan Chmielnicki. In 1648, the Polish king Ladislas IV, had died, succeeded by John II Casimir (1609–72), who wisely sought peace with the rebels. Unfortunately, this backfired when Polish nobility revolted against their king in disagreement, weakening Poland enough to suffer invasions by the Ukrainians. The conflict was further exacerbated when Chmielnicki sought to put his son on the Moldavian throne, much to the consternation of the Poles. Chmielnicki and his soldiers were determined to gain independence from Poland, and were thus forced to ally with Russia. In 1654, a Russo-Cossack treaty was concluded, whereby the Ukrainians accept Russian rule over Polish sovereignty, and led to later conflict between the Poles and the Russians.

Because Poland was preoccupied with Ukrainian tensions, Charles X of Sweden was able to overtake much of the Commonwealth in 1654. The Commonwealth sought to recover by giving Prussia its sovereignty in exchange for breaking its alliance with Sweden. The brutal attacks by the Swedes and the unsuccessful siege of a monastery in southern Poland raised revolts against Charles, although many Polish nobles had aligned with him. By 1657, the Swedes had been driven out of Commonwealth territory. Eastern Ukraine was gained by Russia in a peace treaty with the Commonwealth in 1667, causing then king Jan II Kazimierz to rescind the throne in 1668. Although the Commonwealth helped in defeating the Ottoman Empire at the Battle of Vienna in 1683, events of the 17th century severely weakened Poland. It had become a devastated land - half its population had been killed, the economic base had been nearly eliminated by war, and religious fervor replaced religious tolerance.

Because of both the constitutional structure of the Sejm, and its weakened state, 18th century Poland was victimized by its neighbors. Initially, Augustus II (King 1697–1706, 1709–1733) was supported by France in his bid for the throne. He involved the Commonwealth in the Great Northern War in alliance with other nations against Sweden. Because Sweden invaded Poland in 1704, though, Poland sought Russia's assistance, opening the door to further Russian involvement in Commonwealth affairs. By 1734, August III had risen to power over the Commonwealth. He simultaneously inherited Saxony and was elected king with Russian and Austrian support. He spent only 3 years of his reign in Poland, much more interested in growing his power in Saxony. Because of his absentee leadership and general disinterest in ruling the Commonwealth, neighboring Prussia, Austria and Russia positioned themselves to carve up the weakened region.

During the last portion of the 18th century, Commonwealth King Stanisław August Poniatowski, allowed himself to be influenced by Russian tsars as a result of his affection for Russian Empress Catherine the Great. As a result of a 1730 agreement called the "Alliance of the Three Black Eagles", Prussia, Austria and Russia each bound themselves and each other to maintain the laws of the Commonwealth. Later, Catherine the Great forced Poland to adopt a new constitution, undermining the reforms made by King Stanislaw a few years earlier. Poland was ripe for further intervention.

After the Russians defeated the Ottomans, Austrian (via the Habsburg dynasty) interests in southeastern Europe were threatened. Austria thought war against Russia would be the only way to ameliorate the problem. France, friendly with Russia and Austria, recommended territorial change to satisfy both - as a result Prussia got Polish Ermland (northern Poland) and parts of the Polish fief, Duchy of Courland (part of Latvia) and Semigallia (part of Latvia) - already under Baltic German control. Because Prussia controlled Commonwealth access to the sea, it levied high duties which further weakened the Commonwealth. Austria received Zator, Auschwitz and Galicia (less Krakow) while Russia received northeastern lands - commonwealth territories east of the line formed roughly by the Dvina, Drut, and Dnieper rivers. On September 18, 1773, Polish representatives agreed to cede the territories previously claimed by its neighbors.

In efforts to resist the partitioning of its nation, Poles sought but were unable to obtain British and French support. As a result, Poland was forced to enter into an agreement with its enemy Prussia in 1790. From the resulting Polish Constitution of 1791, a Polish middle class was formed, threatening Russian ideology, especially as a result of the French Revolution. In early 1793, Prussia and Russia obtained more land during the Second Partitioning of Poland.

Sensing dissatisfaction among Poles at having surrendered about 30% of its land to its enemies, Tadeusz Kościuszko, a Polish military leader, led a revolt against Russia and Prussia in Poland and Lithuania in 1794. As a result, Poland's neighbors sought to eliminate any evidence of an independent Polish state. In October 1795, Polish, Prussian and Russian representatives signed a treaty, dividing the remaining territories of the Commonwealth between their three countries.

To be continued...





May 28, 2009

Turkey - Crusades to Ottoman Empire to Ataturk and Modern Turkey

By Red Sox Steve

Before the 9th century, much farther to the east in the Aral and Caspian sea regions, nomadic peoples migrated towards Persia, adopting Islam and eventually invading and defeating the Persian empire in the 11th century. This emerging power eventually took Syria, Palestine, Iraq, and Iran. This expanding empire, who in 1071 defeated the Byzantine army at Manzikert (Anatolia), were known as the Seljuk Turks, and their influence in the region grew for another 15 years, setting the stage for the religiously oriented conflicts known as the Crusades.

A new dynasty ruled the Byzantine empire starting in 1057 known as the Konmenian dynasty. In the west, Konmenian emperor Alexios I faced an invading Norman army in the Balkans and Greece in the early 1080s. In 1091, Alexios defeated the Pechenegs, invading Constantinople from the Balkans. In the east, much territory was lost to the Byzantines, now controlled by the Seljuk Turks. In March 1095, Alexios sought assistance from Pope Urban II at the papal Council of Piacenza (northern Italy). By November that same year, another papal council, the Council of Clermont (France) was called to implore clergy and noblemen from Western Europe to recover the lost land (known as the "Holy Land") from the occupying Muslims.

Horses, armor and soldiers were quickly assembled, and, even before the knights were off to Constantinople, a righteous army of 30,000 peasants led by a man named Peter the Hermit marched east in 1096. During their journey, they harassed Jewish communities in France, considering it part of their holy mission to free Jerusalem. The peasants moved across the Bosporus strait and into Constantinople. In the mountains of western Turkey, just 100 miles east of Constantinople, nearly the entire force was wiped out by the Turks.

Before the end of 1096, the Knights' Crusade left France, swearing an oath of allegiance to Alexios when they reached Constantinople. The knights were in a much better position to be successful against the Turks in the mountainous region where the peasants were defeated. The knights made their way towards Antioch, at the northeastern edge of the Mediterranean. Although the knights were able to occupy Antioch, they soon were threatened by the presence of greater numbers of Seljuk Turks, coming from as far as Baghdad and Mosul in Iraq. The Crusaders were able to defeat the Turks and continue moving south towards Jerusalem, reaching the holy city in 1099.

In three days the Crusaders were able to break down Jerusalem's gates and walls and enter the city the Pope discussed at the Council of Clermont 4 years prior. In the name of Christianity, the invaders murdered almost everyone they found: Turks, Arabs, and Jews. Thousands were slaughtered by Christian knights acting in the name of God.

In 1118, Alexios died, and was succeeded by his son John II Konmenos, who immediately began to work to unravel Turkish control over Byzantium. John fought against the Petchenegs in the Balkans and was able to bring Serbia under Byzantine control. In seeking to undo the damage to the Byzantine empire since the Battle of Manzikert decades earlier, John fought against the Turks in Armenian Cilicia in 1137 and Antioch in 1138, before his death in 1143.

John chose his fourth son, Manuel, to be heir to the kingdom. Manuel aggressively sought territory in the west and east. He allied with the crusaders in Jerusalem, and fought the Fatimids in Egypt. He also strengthened his control over Antioch and Jerusalem through agreements with the rulers of each. Manuel invaded Hungary in 1167, and controlled much of the eastern Adriatic by 1168. Because Manuel had forged successful relationships with the Pope and other Western Christian leaders, the Second Crusade was able to pass through Byzantium without trouble. Manuel was defeated by the Turks in subsequent battles, however when he died in 1180 western Asia minor was still in Byzantine hands.

When Manuel died, the throne was left to his 11-year-old son Alexios II Komnenos. Andronikos I Komnenos, a grandson of Alexios I, was able to overthrow his relative and obtain the throne for himself, and ultimately took Alexios' 12-year-old wife for himself. Although Andronikos instituted governmental reforms and tried to eradicate government corruption, his rule was also characterized by increasing brutality and military incompetence. Finally, in 1185, he was removed from power by Isaac II Angelos of the Angeli dynasty.

Before the end of the 12th century, the Byzantine empire was clearly weakened. Not only had it lost territory in Bulgaria, but the Third Crusade taken up by the English and French thrones, proved to be a disaster for the Christians. After much of the Christian army drowned at sea, English king Richard signed a treaty in 1192 with the Sultan Saladin, a Kurdish Muslim, keeping Jerusalem in Muslim hands.

The circumstances surrounding the Fourth Crusade led to the invasion and occupation of Constantinople before the crusaders proceeded to the Holy Land. For a number of decades, Venetian merchants and traders were thought by the Greeks, the Pope and the Byzantine empire to be businessmen of little scruple and ill repute. In addition, the Venetians had a close relationship with Cairo, the major city of the Levant empire (Eastern Mediterranean), controlled by the Muslims. In spite of this, Pope Innocent III promised to pay the Venetians to transport the crusading armies to the Holy Land (Jerusalem).

Because some of the crusade's leaders married into the Byzantine ruling family, they were easily convinced to divert their forces to Constantinople. Alexios Angelos, son of deposed Byzantine emperoro Isaac II Angelos sought crusader assistance with overthrowing the emperor Alexios III. Constantinople was undefended and Alexios III fled - Alexios Angelos ruled as Alexios IV starting in 1203. By April 1204, Alexios IV had been imprisoned and murdered, and Constantinople was under attack by the crusaders. On April 14, 1204, Constantinople had been destroyed. Venetian pirates and crusaders ravaged the city, looted major artifacts (which found their way to Europe) and murdered the city's inhabitants. The most powerful city in the world was destroyed and the empire it controlled was fragmented.

Constantinople was ruled by an emperor from Flanders (France) and a patriarch from Venice, while Byzantine rule was continued in Nicaea (western Anatolia), Trebizond (northeastern Anatolia) and Epirus (western Greece). Much of Anatolia was now controlled by the Seljuk Turks, with the land under their control being known as the Sultanate of Rum ("Rum" is Arabic for "Rome"). Because it could not withstand Mongol invasion, the Sultanate was further weakened and Anatolia grew more divided. Before the end of the 13th century monarchical alliances would form among the remaining territories and their neighbors, but ultimately the Byzantine empire would never be restored, nor would its relationship with the western Christian church.

As the Sultanate of Rum grew weaker, a new tribe, founded by one of the Sultan's subordinates was able to amass power in Anatolia. Because this emerging leader was able to conquer so much of the Byzantine empire and amass a great deal of its wealth, he was able to attract the adventurous and bellicose Ghazi warrior-mercenaries. This leader was called Estugrul, and the dynasty he sired was known as the Osmanli dynasty based on his son's name, Osman. Osman would later become king of the dynasty, and the dynasty's name was later corrupted by the Europeans coming to be known as the Ottoman Dynasty.

Ottomans were converts to Sunni Islam, and many saw themselves as protectors of the faith. Osman was the son-in-law of a Sufi shaykh, a spiritual leader in Ottoman society. Osman and his son Orhan (r. 1324–c. 1359) were military leaders who guided their troops into battle. Ottoman territories grew into Europe with the conquest of Gallipoli (Greece) in 1354. The following sultan, Murad I, continued Ottoman expansion into the Balkans and Anatolia, taking Adrianople and Ankara; in 1389, the Ottomans were victorious at the Battle of Kosovo. Slowly the Byzantine empire was digested by its Ottoman conquerors. The Ottoman empire would control this region until the early part of the 20th century.

The assistance of the Roman church in fighting the Ottomans, although sought by Byzantine emperors, was spurned by the Orthodox commoners and clergy - much of the west did not act while the Ottomans subsumed Byzantium. Constantinople of 1453 bore little resemblance to the city it once was - 80,000 of the sultan's soldiers attacked the city, in spite of the efforts of a resistance force of about 9,000 Christians. By May 29, 1453, Constantinople belonged to the Ottomans. The city's new name, Istanbul, grew more popular after Ottoman occupation. Istanbul is a Turkish word used colloquially since the 10th century, and derives from Greek: "στην Πόλι" [stinˈboli] ("in the city", "to the city" or "downtown").




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One of the sources of instability during the Ottoman empire was the rights of succession among siblings. In 1481, the new Ottoman emperor, Bayezid II first had to battle his brother Cem (Jem) for rights to the throne. Cem had taken Bursa (western Turkey) naming himself Sultan of Anatolia. Cem fled to Cairo and later returned for eastern Anatolia, but was again forced to flee. After Bayezid had gained undisputed control, he was able to extend the Ottoman empire to Peloponnesos and coastal Adriatic towns. By 1511, alliances of Mameluks (Syrian and Egyptian peoples) and Persians had been vanquished by the Ottoman empire as well.

By 1512, Bayezid's son Selim had risen to power after his brother Ahmet was killed. In 1516, Selim defeated the Mamluks and was able to gain control of the northern Syrian city of Aleppo. The final Abbasid caliph (head of state), al-Mutawakkil, was captured and taken to Istanbul. He died in 1543, ending the Abbasid line of the caliphate. Selim confronted Mamluks outside Cairo, and by 1517, Egypt came under Ottoman rule. The Ottomans now controlled land from the Balkans to the Nile including Mecca and Medina (both in Saudi Arabia, Mecca was where the prophet Mohammed began Islam in the 7th century) . Although the sultans would later claim the title of caliph, it held little sway; however, the Ottomans strongly believed they were the protectors of the Islamic world and the annual Hajj pilgrimage.

Selim's only son Suleiman, inherited a powerful and wealthy empire, ruling for 46 years and continuing the Ottoman tradition of territorial conquest. Suleiman took Rhodes (Greek island) and Belgrade (Serbia), subsequently confronting the powerful Habsburg dynasty of Austria and the Holy Roman Empire. Suleiman allied with French rulers against the Habsburgs, and the Venetians vacillated between joining with either the Habsburgs or the Ottomans to counter the other's desire for expansion. Suleiman occupied Buda and Pest in Hungary, fought with the Russians in the Balkans and attacked Vienna as well as Baghdad.

The Ottoman empire controlled much of the Mediterranean as well - the admiral in chief of the navy, Khair ad Din, came to be known as Barbarossa, "Red Beard," as the Ottoman fleet defeated the Austrian fleet of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, and safely evacuated Muslims and Jews from Spain during the Spanish Inquisition. Ottoman dominance and a desire to protect its empire prevented western European nations from engaging or crossing the empire in silk and spice trade - nations like Portugal were forced to seek other routes for trade, unable and unwilling to cross the Ottoman empire. On the other hand, the resources of the mighty empire were strained, controlling territory on its western side as well its eastern side.

The 17th century saw an initial and continuing ascent of Ottoman dominance, however, before the end of the century a number of forces working together repressed Ottoman desire for continued expansion. Military technology throughout western Europe was improving - while the Ottomans were successful in close combat and large numbers, the use of gunpowder and other types of artillery by the Europeans led to more successful military campaigns. Furthermore, the population of the empire was around 30 million - land was scarce putting more pressure on the government.

The latter half of the 17th century is known as the Köprülü Era (1656–1703) - control of the Ottoman Empire was effectively managed through the highest ranking minister under the sultan, known as a Grand Vizier. During this era, the sequence of Grand Viziers came from the Köprülü family. The first Grand Vizier, Köprülü Mehmed Pasha, took office on September 15, 1656 and was guaranteed unprecedented authority and freedom from interference. Köprülü Mehmed, and his son and successor, Köprülü Fazıl Ahmed, were able to restore Ottoman authority in Transylvania, conquer Crete, and move into the Ukraine, all by 1676.

The renewed growth of Ottoman power in its European territories came to a sudden and definitive end when Grand Vizier Kara Mustafa Pasha attempted another attack on Vienna in May 1683. The Habsburgs, Germans and Polish were allied against the Ottomans, and the Ottoman army was defeated at the Battle of Vienna in 1683. After an additional 15 years of warfare in the region, the Ottomans were forced to sign the Treaty of Karlowitz (January 26, 1699), surrendering control of many European territories including Hungary which it held for 145 years prior.

The early part of the 18th century saw more change in Ottoman control of its northern territories. In 1718, the Ottomans entered into the Treaty of Passarowitz with the Habsburgs and the Republic of Venice. As a result of the conflict that took place from 1714-1718, parts of Serbia and Bosnia were lost to the empire. The Treaty of Belgrade (September 18, 1739) was a result of the two-year Austro-Turkish War, (1737-1739) between the Ottoman Empire and the Habsburg Monarchy on the other. The Habsburgs were forced to give Northern Serbia back to the Ottomans, in addition to other territories. On October 3, 1739, the Ottomans and Russians entered into the Treaty of Nissa (central Anatolia) as a result of the Russo-Turkish War (1735-1739). The Austrian retreat and resulting Treaty of Belgrade in the Austro-Turkish conflict also forced Russia to cede control of Crimea and Moldavia. As a result, Russia was allowed to construct a port at Azov (NE Black Sea), but not fortify its position there or put a navy in the Black Sea.

Some historians call the era from 1699 until the start of the Russo-Turkish war in 1828 a stagnation period for the empire. It was stifled from further expansion, however it was also able to retain much of its territory. When the Russians supported Greek independence in 1828, however, a period of decline of the Ottoman empire was underway. Over the course of two centuries prior, the Russians had fought the Ottoman empire in the Balkans numerous times, the most recent being a result of encouragement by Napoleon of the Sultan Selim III to declare war on Russia in 1806. However, in 1828, after the Russians captured Balkan territory they moved towards Adrianople, and threatened the Ottomans into signing the 1829 Treaty of Adrianople. As a result, Russia controlled the mouth of the Danube River and had access to the Straits of Constantinople, all while acknowledging Greek independence. Although it controlled less territory, it also had become interwoven into post-French Revolutionary Europe - the new era of governmental reform and dissolution of power sweeping through Europe would soon pass through this once mighty Sultanate.

In April 1823, Abdülmecid, son of then Sultan Mahmud II was born in Istanbul. He was well educated and was raised in a manner similar to that of a Western prince. Abdülmecid was fluent in Arabic, Persian, and French, was an accomplished calligrapher, and had connections with the Mevlevi Order of dervishes (a connection to his native Turkish culture). He read European literature and listened to Western classical music. Historians describe the physically frail Abdülmecid as polite, passionate, and just. When his father died in 1839, he took over the reins of the Ottoman Empire. This period in Ottoman history is known as the "Tanzimat", from Arabic Tanzîmât, meaning "reorganization".

Partly because of his enlightened path and knowledge of Europe and partly because of the empire's declining military abilities, Abdülmecid allied with the British, French and others in the Crimean war against the Russians in 1853. Domestically, he oversaw extensive governmental reform as well. In 1840 the Postal Ministry was founded; in 1857, the Education Ministry. A Penal Code (1840), Law of Commerce (1850), and Land Law (1858) were imported from the West as well. Before dying at the age of 39, Abdülmecid also established schools of teaching (1847), agriculture (1847), forestry (1859), and political science (1859). During this time, the first privately owned Turkish newspaper in the empire, Ceride-i Havadis (Journal of news), began publishing as well. Economically, the empire issued its first banknotes in 1839 and incurred external debt for the first time in 1854.

After Abdülmecid died, Tanzimat reforms continued. Christian millets (a legally protected religious minority) were able to institute the Armenian National Constitution in 1863. The document was taken from a "Code of Regulations" made of 150 articles drafted by an "Armenian intelligentsia", and served as a foundation for the Armenian National Assembly. The most significant achievement, however, of the reformist period was the creation of a Constitution, called the Kanûn-ı Esâsî ("Basic Law" in Ottoman Turkish), written by the Young Ottomans (young, westernized intellectuals), and put forth on November 23, 1876. It established freedom of belief and equality of all citizens before the law.

Nationalist movements and governmental reforms also served to undermine the empire's reach. Out of a conflict between Russia and the Ottoman empire in 1877 and the resulting Berlin Treaty of 1878, Serbia, Romania, and Montenegro were given freedom as independent nation-states and autonomy was granted to Bulgaria. Therefore, many Orthodox Christians in the Balkans were granted independence. Although the formation of nation-states implies ethnic homogeneity, there were a number of ethnicities, languages and cultures within these nations. In 1877 in Bulgaria, the Bulgarians were a minority in a country with over 10 other ethnic groups including Turks, Greeks and Romanians. Ironically, the only relatively religiously homogeneous nations in the Balkans today are Turkey (Muslims) and Greece (Orthodox Christians). Cyprus was lent to the British in 1878 in exchange for favors to the empire at the Congress of Berlin. Egypt was occupied in 1882 by British forces on the pretext of bringing order; Egypt and Sudan remained Ottoman provinces until 1914.

In the view of Abdülhamid II (r 1876 - 1909), the Ottoman empire was a European empire whose only difference was that it had more Muslims than Christians. Partly as a result of its Muslim orientation, introduction of westernized reforms into the Ottoman empire were difficult. Abdülhamid worked with a group of Ottoman intellectuals to arrange a government more appropriate for a non-western democracy. However, during this time, a movement led by Turkish muslims outside the country sought to replace the sultanate with a constitutional monarchy. Although many Europeans identified the Young Turk movement with liberalism, the organization itself was not liberal, and only sought to adopt a constitutional government to keep the British, French and Russians at bay. In 1889, the major Young Turk organization, known as the Ottoman Committee of Union and Progress (CUP) was formed. The CUP faced opposition from members of the sultan's family as well as Armenians, Albanians and Greeks, who sought to overthrow the sultan with British assistance. Under Ahmed Riza, the CUP rejected any foreign intervention in the political affairs of the empire.

In 1905, another Young Turk leader, Dr. Bahaeddin Şakir, sought to reorganize the activist alliances. The resulting organization, which had branches in Crete, Cyprus, Bulgaria, Romania and the Caucasus to name but a few, had changed its name slightly becoming the Ottoman Committee of Progress and Union (CPU). By early 1908, after absorbing a number of other Young Turk movements, the CPU had approximately 2,000 members, also consisting of many officers in the military. In June 1908, the CPU began revolutionary activities, and by late July, the sultan ordered a restoration of the constitution that had been suspended since 1876. By December 1908, the CPU, now acting under its former name, CUP, had won a landslide victory allowing it to control the legislature.

When Franz Ferdinand, Archduke of Austria-Hungary was assassinated in June 1914 in Sarajevo, Austria-Hungary insisted that all pro-Serbian separatist activity in Bosnia and Herzegovina come to an end. When Serbia refused to comply, five major European powers were soon involved, starting World War I. On one side were Germany and Austria-Hungary (Central Powers), and on the other were Britain, France, and Russia (Entente Powers, joined by the US in 1917). The Ottoman Empire initially declared its neutrality, but on August 2, 1914, Enver Pasha (1881–1922), minister of war and CUP member, signed a secret agreement with Germany pledging the Ottoman Empire would ally with the Central Powers.

Two German warships entered Ottoman waters on August 11, 1914 to escape the British Mediterranean fleet. The British demand that the Ottomans confiscate the ships or force them out of Ottoman waters were rebuffed by the Ottoman government. Instead, Istanbul announced it purchased both ships - the crews were dressed in Ottoman uniforms and Admiral Wilhelm Souchon was appointed commander of the Ottoman navy in the Black Sea. When Souchon, under direct orders from Enver, bombarded Russian bases along the Black Sea and sank Russian ships in October, the Ottoman empire was officially at war.

Because of the size of the empire, the Ottomans were forced to fight in a number of areas. Unfortunately, their resources had been weakened by the Balkan wars of 1912-1913, and less than ideal infrastructure slowed down troop movement. The Ottomans fought the Russians in Europe (Galicia between July 1916 and August 1917, Romania between August 1916 and May 1918, and Macedonia between September 1916 and March 1917). The Ottoman armies were unsuccessful against the Russian armies until revolution broke out in Russia in 1917, and against the British until an armistice was declared.

One of the most significant events of World War I was the Turkish victory against the British and French in Gallipoli (Greek for "beautiful city, western Turkey). Among other reasons, this victory is notable in Turkish history because it gave rise to a local hero. This hero was in charge of the 19th Division attached to the Fifth Army during the battle of Gallipoli. In Gallipoli, he was known for being able to correctly anticipate Allied attacks and hold position until they retreated. When the war ended in 1918 he was 37, and was also renowned as an admirer of the European Age of Enlightenment who would bring secular, modernizing reform to the new nation. This hero's name was Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.

At the Paris Peace Conference of 1919 the Ottoman Empire entered into the Treaty of Sevres with the Allies. Some of the critical provisions of the agreement were that the Sultanate could retain Istanbul and minor surrounding territories; furthermore, the shores of the Bosporus and Dardanelles were internationalized to keep the Black Sea open. Ottoman territories were divided among France, Italy and Greece, Istanbul was controlled by the British and French, and Kurds and Armenians were given territory. The Turks were only able to retain a small territory in central Turkey.

In 1919, Kemal traveled to Samsun (Black Sea coast), beginning an effort to resist the occupying nations. He formed a national assembly, became its chairman, and organized a resistance army to throw out foreign invaders. The British, French and Italians capitulated relatively easily, but the Greeks were the most resistant. Greek nationalist movements caused them to seek much of the territory of Asia Minor and as a result they invaded Smyrna (Turkish west coast) in 1919. By 1922, the Turkish army was able to forcibly remove Smyrna from control of the Greeks. In July 1923, an international conference was convened in Lausanne, at which an agreement was reached between Turkey and Britain, France and Russia. A new Turkish state was recognized, and by October the republic of Turkey arose from the ruins of the 600 year old Ottoman Empire.

From the following sources Belliel, Katie. "Atatürk, Kemal." In Ackermann, Marsha E., Michael Schroeder, Janice J. Terry, Jiu-Hwa Lo Upshur, and Mark F. Whitters, eds. Encyclopedia of World History: Crisis and Achievement, 1900 to 1950, vol. 5.

He believed that the only way to save his country was to modernize it, and by force if necessary. He moved the capital from Istanbul to Ankara, a centrally located city. He then abolished both the sultanate and the caliphate, and his fight against religion became one of his most contested reforms. He believed that Islam's role in government would prevent the country from modernizing. He was not antireligion but against religious interference in governmental affairs. He closed the religious schools and courts and put religion under state control. He wanted to lessen the religious and ethnic divisions that had been encouraged under the Ottoman system. He wanted the people of Turkey to identify themselves as Turks first. He established political parties and a national assembly based on the parliamentary system. He also implemented the Swiss legal code that allowed freedom of religion and civil divorce and banned polygamy.

Atatürk banned the fez for men and the veil for women and encouraged Western-style dress. He replaced the Muslim calendar with the European calendar and changed the working week to Monday through Friday, leaving Saturday and Sunday as the weekend. He hired expert linguists to transform the Turkish alphabet from Arabic to Latin script based on phonetic sounds and introduced the metric system. As surnames did not exist until this time, Mustafa Kemal insisted that each person and family select a surname. He chose Atatürk, which means "father of the Turks."

Some of his most profound reforms, however, were in regard to women. Atatürk argued that no society could be successful while half of the population was hidden away. He encouraged women to wear European clothing and to leave the harems. Turkey was one of the first countries to give women the right to vote and hold office in 1930. He also adopted several daughters. One of them, Sabiha Gokcen, became the first woman combat pilot in Turkey.

These reforms did not come easily and in many cases garnered little support. Many religious and ethnic groups such as the Sufi dervishes and Kurds staged rebellions and were ruthlessly put down. Other minority groups suffered or were exiled as a result of the new government.

When Ataturk died in 1938, his prime minister İsmet İnönü became Turkey's second president and chairman of the Republican People's Party (RPP). Inonu resisted the pressure applied to it by both Axis and Allied powers to join the second world war, and remained neutral throughout almost the entire war. Turkey did, however, symbolically declare war on Germany and Japan in 1945 to satisfy eligibility requirements for becoming a founder of the United Nations. In 1946, Inonu allowed for political pluralism and created the Democratic Party. Turkey held the first free elections in its history, and by 1950, the Democrats had won. Turkey further gained legitimacy as a democratic nation when Inonu resisted the urging of military conservatives to remain in power, and instead stepped down as the Democratic party took control.

Celal Bayar became president, and Adnan Menderes became prime minister during an economic boom that was also supported by US financial aid under the Truman Doctrine. In 1952 Turkey had become a member of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), mostly because it immediately volunteered troops for the Korean War. Turkey's entry into NATO ensured protection along its borders and allowed NATO a closer position against the USSR.

After the 1954 elections the Democrats became more authoritarian. Conflict between the Greeks and Turks fomented as a result of the bombing of the Turkish consulate in Thessalonica, and in Cyprus which had an 80 percent Greek population but was under British control. Riots were targeted against Greek homes and businesses throughout Istanbul, and as a result many Turkish citizens of Greek origin fled.

Because of its membership in NATO, the Turkish military was a very strong institution within the nation, and it supported the Republicans, leading to the overthrow of the Menderes (Democrat) government in 1960. Because the Democrats had repressed students, they were in favor of the coup, despite the military's role in it. Menderes had employed authoritarian techniques to retain control of the government, but was ultimately unable to do so - he was tried and executed in 1961. In January of that same year, political activity was again opened up and 11 new parties registered for elections, in spite of the increased role of the military in political and constitutional affairs.

In 1965 the Justice Party (a descendant of the Democratic Party), led by Süleyman Demirel, won a major victory in elections. They pushed a belief system based on Islamic thought which ran counter to communist and leftist ideologies. Simultaneously, the left grew increasingly popular among the students and working classes. By 1968, two strong, Islamic-leaning parties, the National Action Party and the National Order Party posed a threat to the Justice Party's hold on government. By 1971, the military had forced the Justice Party from office.

The Republican Party was victorious in the free elections held in 1973, but were forced into coalition governments as they were unable to garner a clear majority. Not only did rightist and leftist tensions escalate throughout the 1970s, but a Kurdish separatist movement arose as well. Kurdish nationalist Abdullah Öcalan formed the left-leaning Kurdistan Worker's Party (PKK) in 1978. As a result of the revolution in Iran in 1979, Islamic groups in Turkey were under suspicion of receiving support from Iran. Tensions ran high throughout the country, especially in the Islamic conservative city of Konya where the military was forced to intervene in September 1980. About 5,000 people died as a result of violence throughout Turkey.

Martial law and curfews were imposed by the military in 1980 as a result of unrest, and all political parties were abolished. General Kenan Evren was declared head of state, while the National Security Council arrested 122,000 to stem the violence. In 1982, a new constitution was put in place while the military began to restructure the political system. By 1983, elections were again held with the Motherland Party (Anavatan Partisi) gaining the majority under Turgut Özal. Turgut Özal became president in 1989, and has been credited with privatizing much of the state owned economy (today 70% of land in Turkey is still owned by the government), and he openly desired to transform Turkey into a "little America."

After the 1980 coup, the Kurdish identity was nearly abolished, and until 1991, Turkey didn't refer to them as Kurds, but rather as "mountain Turks." The government forbade their language, songs, customs, and names. After the U.S. defeat of Iraq in 1991, Turkey resisted the creation of a Kurdish state in northern Iraq out of fear it would be used as a base for attacks on Turkey. As a result of this, President Özal officially recognized the Kurds and allowed the Kurdish language to be used in everyday conversations but not any official business or governmental proceeding.

These efforts did little to quench Kurdish desire for further recognition - the PKK (Kurdistan Workers' Party), under the leadership of the militant Abdullah Öcalan continued committing atrocities against Turkey, reducing their popularity among Turkish citizens. Kurdish factions in Iran and Kurds living throughout the Middle East and in Europe came to the aid of the PKK, which is currently considered an active terrorist organization by the United States and the EU. The PKK used guerrilla warfare to launch attacks within Turkey and the Turkish army responded by destroying Kurdish villages and arresting, detaining and torturing thousands. In 1999, Öcalan was captured in Nairobi, Kenya by Turkish commandos, sentenced to death and imprisoned on an island in the Marmara Sea.

In 1993, Turkey elected its first female prime minister, Tansu Ciller, and in 1996 its first Islamic prime minister, Necmettin Erbakan. Erbakan sought to free the restrictions imposed on Islam by the Turkish Directorate of Religious Affairs, and to change working hours during Ramadan. He also proposed lifting the ban against wearing headscarves in universities and government institutions. The Erbakan/Çiller coalition, borne partly out of an investigation into corruption by PM Ciller and her husband, sought to improve relations with Libya and Iran, while condemning Israel. Furthermore, many Islamic leaders expressed long-silent opinions on their desire to abolish the Swiss legal code instituted by Ataturk and return to Islamic law.

In 1998, Bülent Ecevit of the Democratic Left Party emerged as the new president, mostly due to his handling of Öcalan and the Kurds a decade earlier. In 2002, partly due to inadequate governmental and military response to a devastating 1999 earthquake near Istanbul, the Justice and Development Party (JDP) emerged as a political frontrunner. Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, the JDP leader, won a majority in the Grand National Assembly. In 2005, Erdogan and the JDP achieved a monumental goal for Turkey when the EU decided to start Turkey down the road to integration as an EU member. In 2007, Prime Minister Erdogan was re-elected, and his party won 340 out of 550 parliamentary seats. Former JDP deputy leader Abdullah Gul was elected to the presidency by parliament in 2007.

Should Turkey be part of the European Union?

The European Union is the most modern form of international governance among secular, representative democracies today. It works well for a few reasons: It makes sure to incorporate the multiple languages and cultures in Europe into its inner workings and it has a 6 month rotating presidency, giving all members the chance to rule and ratify various treaties and amendments. Furthermore, because of a variety of treaties, all members are mandated to adhere to fiscal guidelines, preventing the burgeoning debt load that we experience here in the United States. What I feel is also impressive is that it gives less wealthy European nations (Portugal) a chance to be represented as well as more wealthy nations (France, Germany). It is a way not only for governments to deal directly with each other (similar to the United Nations and the League of Nations before it), but for a representative union to speak to the world. Of course, more powerful EU nations have a more influential voice in international affairs, especially economic and military ones. On the other hand, smaller, less developed nations also share favorable political and economic relationships with their wealthy counterparts, as mandated by various EU treaties.

Turkey has to pursue a path that is best for itself. Turks have a right to pursue a self-determining path, similar to every other nation on earth, subject to many other conditions which I won't discuss here. From what I've read, there was initial support in Turkey for its EU membership in 2005, however, that has waned. Turkey, like the Ottoman Empire before it and the Eastern Roman Empire before that, finds itself at the "pivot point" between the Eastern and Western worlds. Modern Turkey (post WWI), although at times pursuing a secular, western path, has been forced to incorporate eastern and islamic cultural and ideological stances as well. On the other hand, it has to do everything it can to cope with Islamic extremism both within its borders and just beyond them. I think it is best that Turkey stay out of the EU, and remain a secular, regional power. The most serious threat to modernity is religiously based nation building. Unfortunately, the Muslim world has many examples of this type of government. Turkey, however, is a secular, sovereign modern nation with a rich history flavored by a Muslim, Christian, Roman and Persian past. By joining the EU, Turkey would, like ALL EU member nations currently, be forced to sacrifice some of its own identity to be an effective union member.

It is beyond tempting to draw on precedent to make an argument for or against Turkey joining the EU - to look at a time or times in Turkey's past and say it would only benefit MORE by allying itself with economically developed EU nations in joining the strongest international governmental institution in the world today. On the other hand, the world of the 21st and 22nd centuries is going to be defined by complex international relationships led by a Chinese & Indian power structure along with an overall trend towards secular government which the extremist Islamic world will have to take part in, either peacefully or forcefully. Seen in this light, it would be better, when the time comes for either a Middle Eastern version of the EU OR for a world government where all nations' interests are sublimated in favor of a global interest, for Turkey to join either of those structures. Because of its history and geography, Turkey would only need to do what it has been doing for millennia now - bridge the gap between Christian and Muslim, Eastern and Western, for the benefit of it and the world.





May 19, 2009

Turkey - Anatolia to Eastern Roman Empire, pre-Crusades

By Red Sox Steve

When examining the history of European nations we've looked at so far, their post-Stone Age, pre-feudal histories are not necessarily simultaneous. The era when primitive farming and animal domestication started to displace one of stone tool making and hunter-gatherer societies is known as the Neolithic era. Neolithic practices were thought to originate on the West Bank of the Palestinian territories before spreading north to Asia Minor in approximately 9500 BCE. Turkey (formerly known as Asia Minor, or Anatolia) is home to the earliest recorded adoption of Neolithic practices in Europe starting in about 7000 BCE.

By 2400 BCE, Anatolia had shepherded in the Bronze Age, as it fell under the influence of the Early trans-Caucasian culture, centered around the southwestern Black Sea region. The Bronze Age, after a series of conquests of successively influential kingdoms in the region, finally gave way to the Iron Age and the Phrygian kingdom in the 12th century BCE. By the 7th century, the Phrygian kingdom of Asia Minor was conquered by the Cimmerians. The Cimmerians, originally from north of the Caucasus and Black Sea region, were equine-oriented, and were able to take the Phrygian capital of Gordium (modern Yassihüyük, in Turkey) in 696 BCE. According to legend, as the Cimmerians took Gordium, the final Phrygian king committed suicide. This king, famous to the Greeks partly because of his wealth and later written into Greek lore as having the ability to turn anything he touched into gold, was known as King Midas.

The next powerful kingdom to control western Anatolia was Lydia, starting in 687 BCE. Lydia was founded after the fall of the Hittite Empire of central Anatolia in the 13th century BCE. The Lydian kingdom in Anatolia was west of Phrygia, and the Lydians were ruled by three dynasties over their eight century existence. The first, the Atyad dynasty, ruled from approximately 1300 BCE to 1185 BCE, followed by the Heraclids (1186 - 687 BCE approx), who ruled over a period of Greek emergence on the Meditteranean. The third and final Lydian dynasty, the Mermnads, fought the powerful and intrusive Greeks as well as the persistent Cimmerians. Cimmerian militarism in the region led to the acquisition of Phrygia by Lydia. After the Lydians were able to put an end to Cimmerian attacks in 560 BCE, they became interested in lands beyond Anatolia. The final Lydian king, Croesus, attacked the Persian empire around the middle of the 6th century BCE, and in 546 BCE was defeated by Persian king Cyrus II (a/k/a Cyrus the Great). Cyrus II's victory over Croesus led to the incineration of Sardis, the Lydian capital, and ultimately the folding of Lydia into one of the largest empires in the ancient world, the Achaemenid Empire.

The Achaemenid Empire spread across three continents, including parts of Afghanistan, Pakistan, Central Asia, Asia Minor, much of the Black Sea coast, Iraq, northern Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Palestine, Lebanon, Syria, and many population centers of ancient Egypt as far as Libya. Furthermore, the Achaemenid Empire is depicted in western history as being a foe to Greek city states in the Greco-Persian Wars, for freeing the Jews from Babylonian captivity, and instituting Aramaic as its official language. The empire was formed by Cyrus II after the defeat of Media, Lydia and Babylonia, and its king created and enforced policies of religious freedom, and made a point of restoring temples and infrastructure in newly acquired cities. The Achaemenids also continued the practice of earlier dynasties by moving large populations between areas, diffusing cultures and blending faraway clans in the process to reduce territorial loyalties under its rule.

In 336 BCE, in the neighboring kingdom of Macedonia across the Aegean sea, the king died, leaving the throne to his son. The new king sought to defeat the Persians and assembled an army and a navy large enough to compete with those of the Persians. The Macedonian forces landed on the Anatolian coastline in 334 BCE, and soon thereafter had conquered and liberated the kingdoms of Lydia and Ionia. The Macedonians sought to conquer every coastal city on Anatolia and avoid ocean-based conflicts in the process. Furthermore, this allowed the Macedonian king to penetrate further east, liberating Phrygia, Cappadocia and Cilicia in the process. Soon, the Macedonians came upon the Persian army in what was known as the plains of Issus. Achaemenid king Darius III was unable to defeat the much smaller Macedonian invaders at the Battle of Issus in 333 BCE. Darius was compelled to flee eastward back across the Euphrates river, and, embarrassingly left his family behind to be captured by the Macedonians. Thus, by forcing the Achaemenid Empire towards the east with the Macedonian king and his army in pursuit, Anatolia was removed from Persian control. The Macedonian king who led his army is known as Alexander the Great. Alexander would go on to eventually conquer the Achaemenid empire. His generals and descendants would later control much of Persia under what is called the Seleucid empire (312 BCE - 63 BCE).

While the Seleucid empire controlled eastern Anatolia, the Thracian empire increased its influence over western Anatolia. Up until the 5th century BCE, the Thracians (located in southeastern Europe) were divided into villages and warlike tribes, and only in the middle of the 5th century, coalesced around a central authority, king Sitalces of the Odrysae. Prior to this, the Greeks colonized the Thracian Aegean coast in search of mineral wealth, wheat, and slave labor starting in about the mid 600s BCE up to the mid 400s BCE. The kingdom fell around 330 BCE as a result of the invasions of the Macedonians, led by Philip II and Alexander. When the Romans conquered Macedonia in 167 BCE, Thrace became a Roman province. As the millennium was drawing to a close, Rome sought to expand its influence over western Anatolia.

Rome, in fighting off Hannibal of Carthage during the Second Punic War (218-201 BCE), sought alliance with Greece, to prevent Macedonian (allied with Hannibal in 215 BCE) conquest of western Anatolia. It was the Greek king Attalus I of Pergamon (Turkey) that sought Roman protection against the invading Macedonians. As a result of Rome's success, and their victory in a later conquest against the Seleucid king Antiochus III, Pergamon was able to take control of the Seleucid empire north of the Taurus mountains in Anatolia. Attalus III, king of Pergamon, gave his kingdom to the Romans in 133 BCE; this region was later named Asia by its Roman conquerors.

Around 90 BCE, while the Romans were occupied with affairs in Italy, one of Anatolia's kings, Mithridates VI of Pontus, thought this was the opportunity it needed to strike at Roman Asia. Roman consul Cornelius Sulla went to Asia and quickly dispatched of Mithridates' army. Roman influence in the region later grew as Bithynia was bequeathed to Rome by its king, Nicomedes IV in 74 BCE. Within that same year, Mithridates invaded Bithynia, and was defeated by another Roman consul, Lucius Licinius Lucullus. Pompey, a much more powerful Roman consul, had ascended to power around this time, and forced Mithridates back to the Bosphorus, claiming for itself Armenia. Mithridates committed suicide in 63 BCE and Rome was able to claim Pontus and Cilicia as provinces. These events were not the end of Roman conquest in Anatolia - Amyntas, known as Amyntas King of Galatia, ruled Galatia, Pisidia and Cappadocia as a sovereign kingdom. In 25 BCE, Amyntas was killed in battle and Rome was able to claim his lands, completing its conquest of Anatolia.

Anatolia was ruled as a number of Roman provinces for approximately the next 300 years, providing political stability to the region around a central Roman authority. Connections between cities were improved by new roads, agricultural output grew, and settlement in the region was promoted by the leadership in Rome. During this time, Gothic tribal influence grew on continental Europe, posing a threat to Roman influence in Macedonia, Italy and Germania. The Goths could not resist the northern Anatolian provinces, mainly because of their accessibility by sea and the mineral wealth they possessed. In 256, the Goths crossed the Black Sea, and landed in Trebizond, a northern city in the province of Pontus. Due to weak Roman defenses in the region, the Goths were able to capture additional ships and steal away some of the city's material wealth. In later attacks, the Goths were able to move into Anatolia through Bithynia and set up an operation at Chalcedon (port city in Bithynia). Gothic conquest of western Anatolia continued, and they were able to invade Ephesus on the far eastern shore of Anatolia in 263.

A crisis within the Roman empire resulting from economic, political, and military problems during the middle of the 3rd century divided the empire into three rival territories, with most of Anatolia continuing to remain under Roman authority. This series of events however had implications when Diocletian, a Roman general, came to power as emperor in 284. Diocletian initially sought to divide Roman rule between two leaders, himself, and the general Maximian, both with the title "Augustus" (emperor). By 293, however, this system was reformed - Diocletian appointed two Caesars (each ranking below an Augustus), Galerius Maximianus and Constantius Chlorus. Maximian and Diocletian each stepped down. Galerius and Constantius each became Augustus, appointing Flavius Severus and Maximinus each as Caesars, forming the first Roman tetrarchy ("rule by four").

By 324, after a number of internecine conflicts among Roman leaders, it was Constantius who rose to Augustus in Rome, governing the entire empire as Constantine I. After assuming power over the entire Roman empire, Constantine moved the capital city of the empire east from Rome to Byzantium (Turkey). Because Byzantium is on the Turkish peninsula, it is easily accessed by the Bosporus strait, connecting the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. The main significance of the Bosporus strait is economic: even a millennia before Constantine, the Byzantine government would impose tolls on Greek ships passing through the strait with grain and metals bound for Greece. It was held by Persia, Athens and Rome as a strategic part of the empire of each. By 330, Byzantium was renamed Constantinople essentially creating the fulcrum point for a divided Roman Empire, and giving rise to the designation of "Eastern" and "Western" that are still with us today.

Constantine was the first Christian emperor of Rome, and was baptized just before his death, making it official. Throughout his reign, Constantine supported efforts to promote Christianity, overseeing the construction of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (a pilgrimage site for Christians) in Jerusalem in 326, and Old Saint Peter's Basilica, which stood in Rome until the 16th century. In Greek Orthodoxy, Constantine is considered a saint.

By 476, the western Roman empire had succumbed to various invasions by Germanic and Gothic tribes. To many Roman emperors, the empire's lands remained entirely in Roman hands, however the reality was that northern European tribes and North African invaders controlled almost all the territory considered Europe today. In contrast, the eastern empire was much stronger. Protected on 3 sides by water, the only considerable threat to the empire were the Sassenids (Persian origin) and the Huns (Mongolian origin) which were dealt with through either direct warfare or paid tribute by Roman emperors. The region was relatively urbanized, and reforms to install more bureaucrats in government by Constantine, in addition to a growing economy based partly on defense spending, strengthened the empire's hold on its territory.

In the 6th century, Justinian came to power as Roman emperor and sought to increase Rome's hold on its western territories. However, because his efforts to the west left him vulnerable in the east, he was forced into signing long-term peace treaties with his Sassanid enemies. Justinian, however, was able to push the Goths out of Italy and the Vandals out of Northern Africa extending Roman influence further west. He also created a legal code which eliminated perceived contradictions and simplified the legal system. The "Justinian Code" served as a foundation for much of European law into modern times. Justinian was also responsible for the construction of the Church of the Holy Wisdom, Hagia Sophia (Istanbul), which is famous for its large dome and serves as a museum today.

By 565 Justinian I died and his son became Emperor Justin II. The Byzantines lost land to the Sassanids and Justin II was thought to have become senile. He named one of his generals, Tiberius, as his successor. Tiberius II Constantine, continued the war with the Persians in Armenia, and in 582 was succeeded by a prominent general, Mauricius ("Maurice"). The Emperor Maurice ruled until 602, ruling over an empire constantly under attack - by the Slavs in the Balkans and the Persians in Mesopotamia and Armenia. In 602, a Roman general Phokas killed Maurice in the first bloody coup since Constantinople became capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. Domestically, Phokas became popular by lowering taxes and instituting policies in favor of the Christian Church. Militarily, the empire was under attack in the Balkans and faced accusations from the Persians that Phokas was an illegitimate leader, who were able to retake some of Anatolia as well.

Heraclius, Roman proconsul in Africa, was able to overthrow and execute Phokas and claim leadership of the empire in 610. Meanwhile the Sassanid empire was advancing westward. The Sassanids were able to capture Damascus in 613, Jerusalem in 614, and attacked Egypt in 616. In 626 Constantinople was attacked, however the following year the Byzantines defeated the Persians and were able to gain all the territory they lost. Before the end of the century, the Arabs were able to conquer Carthage, Sicily and some port cities of Anatolia and the Slavs attacked Thessalonica (Greece). Due to the frequent Arab raids on Anatolia, urban centers declined and many people moved into fortresses. The Slavs expanded southward, and in 681 the new Augustus Constantine IV entered into a treaty with the king of the Bulgars, recognizing Bulgar influence over Slavic tribes in the region. Byzantine control over the Balkans was in decline.

Just after the start of the 8th century, Leo III came to power over Byzantium, having risen to great wealth and military power during the time of Anastasius II, successor to Justinian II. Leo was forced to repeatedly defend Constantinople against Arab invaders, and was able to stabilize the military through its restructuring. Furthermore, he ordered all Jews and other non-adherents to Christianity baptized, however his religiously oriented efforts were not confined to baptisms. There is a biblically-based interpretation of the 10 commandments that forbids the creation and worship of what are known as "graven images". The movement to abolish all religious images and punish those that don't follow this policy is known as Iconoclasm. Threats of Arab invasion flavored the argument both for and against Iconoclasm, and the pope and distant bishops refused to follow this policy; however Iconoclasm was not thought to be a proxy for other religious-based efforts. Rather, abolishing religious imagery and symbology was the main issue pursued by Leo to serve its own end. Iconoclasm continued throughout the 8th and 9th centuries until it was finally defeated due to protests and riots, presumably by those who worshipped smaller icons in private during this period.

From the time of Leo III (ruled 717–741) until Nikephoros I (ruled 802 to 811), various alliances were forged with neighboring powers and conflicts were fought against some of these same parties. Because of the threat posed by the Arabs, Leo allied with the Khazars and Georgians in the east. Constantine V defeated the Arabs and Bulgars in battle, and Leo IV fought against the Arabs as well. Nikephoros I continued fighting against Arabs and Bulgars until dying in battle in 811.

As the 9th century continued, the Isaur dynasty gave way to rulers of Macedonian origin, the most prominent being Basil I. Basil was born in Thrace in 812, and served under Emperor Michael III (also known as Michael the Drunkard). Basil rose through the ranks to become Michael's companion, and in 866 was named co-emperor. In 867, Basil murdered Michael and took the throne for himself. Basil deposed the archbishop of Constantinople, as a result of conflict between the emperor and the pope, however he was later reinstated. Basil's most significant domestic achievement is his reform of the legal system, a new set of laws known as the "Basilica". Militarily, Basil was successful in fighting the Paulicians (religious sect in eastern Anatolia) and Dalmatia (Croatia) in the west. He was also able to successfully fortify eastern Byzantium against the Arabs, but lost Sicily to Arab forces. Basil appointed his three eldest sons as co-emperors, however his oldest son died in 879, crushing the emotions of the powerful emperor.

When Basil died in 886, the throne was passed to his son Leo VI. Power over the empire changed hands quickly and frequently during the 10th century - Leo VI died in 912, passing the throne to his brother, Alexander who died 13 months later. Leo VI's son, Constantine VII, ruled from 913 until he was deposed in 920 by the son of an Imperial Guardsmen, returning to power in 944. Constantine's son Romanos II came to power and ruled for 4 years, followed by his son Basil II who was 5 at the time. Although Basil II was deposed, he returned to power, holding the throne from 976 to 1025. Basil II allied with Prince Vladimir I of Kiev, which served to both stabilize the northern Byzantine empire and spread Christianity to Vladimir's empire, Kievan Rus'. Basil reclaimed Syria for the empire, but couldn't retake Jerusalem. Basil was also successful against the Bulgarians in Thrace in 1014.

Later in the 11th century, disputes between the Eastern Orthodox and Western Catholic churches would reach a crisis point. Not only were the churches using different languages (eastern Greek, and western Latin), but insertion of the words "and the son" into the following phrase in the Nicene Creed, highlighted differences as well:

Et in Spiritum Sanctum, Dominum, et vivificantem: qui ex Patre Filioque procedit.
(And in the Holy Spirit, the Lord, and giver of life, who proceeds from the Father and the Son.)

The phrase is known as the "filioque", Latin for "and (from) the Son" and it emphasizes that Jesus is equal with God. In the Eastern Church, the Father is seen as the single being which gave rise to the other two beings, which is why the filioque is omitted, while in Western Christianity, using the phrase emphasizes that Jesus, the Son, is equal with God.

In July 1054, papal representatives placed a "bull of excommunication" on the altar of the Hagia Sophia, the basilica in Constantinople. This was the culminating event that traced roots of division between the eastern and western churches back several centuries, touching off what is known as the Great Schism or the East-West Schism.

Before the 9th century, much farther to the east in the Aral and Caspian sea regions, nomadic peoples migrated towards Persia, adopting Islam and eventually invading and defeating the Persian empire in the 11th century. This emerging power eventually took Syria, Palestine, Iraq, and Iran. This expanding empire, who in 1071 defeated the Byzantine army at Manzikert (Anatolia), were known as the Seljuk Turks, and their influence in the region grew for another 15 years, setting the stage for the religiously oriented conflicts known as the Crusades.

To Be Continued...





May 14, 2009

Norway - Scandinavian, European, Modern, Unique

By Red Sox Steve

On the northern part of continental Europe, the end of the Neolithic period in approximately 5000 BCE is marked by the adoption of agriculture by the Germanic tribes. From this time until after the start of the first millennium, it is thought that the Germanic tribes occupying Scandinavia (Sweden and Denmark) were generally isolated from each other. Roman ties with northern Germanic tribes were thought to have been established during the first half of the first millennium CE. When the Roman empire had expanded to its full reach, and lost its ability to conquer more lands, it sought out relationships with the Scandinavians to obtain the slave labor it needed to maintain economic growth.

After the end of the Neolithic era, Scandinavians began to import tin ore, copper and amber, transitioning to what was later called the Bronze Age. Evidence has been found in tools and other artifacts that iron then supplanted bronze, even before the Romans had reached Scandinavia. It was the Celtic tribes that brought the Iron Age to Scandinavia from present-day Germany and France. By about 400 CE, Roman influence all over Europe was on the decline, allowing Germanic iron technology to spread into Scandinavia and other places. Germanic influence later gave way to the first historical period that can be considered uniquely Scandinavian: the Viking Age.

By the end of the 8th century, Scandinavians had developed trading relationships with dynasties like the Carolingian (France) and Abbasid (Iraq). Scandinavians (Denmark, Sweden, Norway) were able to gain great wealth serving as a conduit between Asia and western Europe for the movement of furs and precious metals. At the same time, the iron technology that had been adopted for agricultural uses increased food production, contributing to population growth. Germanic tribes in the region had taken to fishing and ocean based trading centuries earlier. At the close of the 8th century, political troubles in Iraq dried up the silver trade and Norway found itself made up of 30 smaller kingdoms. Because of the natural advantages in Scandinavia, a decentralized feudal structure and awareness of the riches found in foreign countries, Vikings were able to aggressively conquer and trade in many parts of Europe.

Before the end of the 8th century, Vikings had attacked coastal England and Dublin. They made further progress to France and through the Strait of Gibraltar in the second half of the 9th century. Many coastal Scandinavian towns and farms were isolated from each other in the early part of this era; as Viking influence expanded, trade and wealth back home also increased, leading to further development of dense population centers. Although much of Viking lore discusses militaristic conquest, there is evidence that women played a significant role in this era as well. Women accompanied men on journeys of conquest and provided support for the army by cooking and nursing the wounded. Furthermore, there is evidence that aristocratic women had full authority over dependents and slaves, taking responsibility for the home when their husbands were away.


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The 11th century saw a steady the decline of Viking dominance in Europe, and by the end of the century, Viking influence was subdued by a number of other forces. Because the Vikings had previously been able to conquer England, the king of both Denmark and Norway had also become the king of England. However, a challenge to successive authority wrought conflict between England and Norway, and after 1066, the Vikings were never able to conquer England again. Furthermore, the spread of Christianity throughout continental Europe had found its way to Scandinavia. As Norsemen settled Europe through the 10th century, many had converted to Christianity. Centralized royal and religious authority, as it had in the rest of Europe, was increasing in population and economic centers that still exist in Scandinavia today (e.g. Oslo in Norway; Lund in Sweden; Odense in Denmark). As these nations became further integrated with Europe, Viking raids had ended, and by the end of the 12th century, all Scandinavian nations had become Christian.

Norway emerged as a sovereign nation during the Viking era. Harald I, who had inherited three kingdoms within the fractured nation, began an era of conquest that drove some of his opponents as far away as Iceland. In order to defeat his challengers in the British Isles, he allied with Anglo-Saxon king Athelstan. He was also able to encourage further conquest of England and continental Europe during his reign and was recognized as the first monarch of a united Norway in about 900, dying in 940.

Before his death, Harald had divided Norway into three parcels, to be given to each of his three sons, according to royal succession practices stating that all sons of the king had the same right to inherit from their father. One son, Eric (later known as Eric I Bloodaxe) conquered the other two parcels, executing his brothers, and ruling a united Norway until 945 when he was removed from power. Although subsequent rulers inherited a nation thriving as a result of Viking conquests, the situation in Norway was turbulent as monarchs continuously tried to implement Christian doctrine. Olaf I (r. 995–1000) and Olaf II (r. 1015–30) continued to build their nation around Christianity, and pursued the forced conversion of pagans to Christians to further their efforts. After defeating Olaf II, the Danish king Canute II tried to incorporate Norway under his rule, however successive Norwegian kings were able to repel this effort and maintain independence.

During the second half of the 11th century, Norway entered a period of relative stability. Its Viking era was over and Christianity started to take hold, all while some of its major cities continued to flourish. However, because of the rules of succession, the period from 1130-1240 is known as a time of civil war. After King Sigurd the Crusader died in 1130, the rule of his only apparent son was challenged by Sigurd's brother who had emerged from Ireland. This touched off a conflict that lasted for multiple generations - siblings and heirs from both factions had challenged each other, until 1239 when Håkon Håkonsson's royal authority was threatened by his father-in-law, Earl Skule Bårdsson. King Hakon defeated Earl Skule, and executed him the following year. Before Hakon's death in 1263, he was able to obtain Iceland and Greenland for Norway, pushing the kingdom's boundaries to their furthest extent.

Before the 13th century came to an end, Norway sought a more extensive role in international politics. The monarchy married into the kingdoms of Castile (Spain) and Scotland, and in 1295, Norwegian King Eirik II formed an alliance with France and Scotland against England. King Haakon V became monarch in 1299 and it was his heir that would build a union between Norway and Denmark that would last for two centuries. When Haakon died, his only heir to the throne was his daughter's son, Magnus Eriksson, the King of Sweden. This resulted in a personal union between Sweden and Norway, and Magnus' son Haakon inherited the Norwegian throne. Haakon passed the throne to his son Olaf, already the King of Denmark; Olaf became King of Norway in 1380 on his father's death and ruled both Denmark and Norway as King Olav IV.

During the 14th century, Olav IV's mother, Queen Margaret, was to engineer a union with Sweden and Denmark that would last for nearly two centuries. Because Olav IV died in 1387, Norway was without a king until Margaret adopted her sister's grandson, Bogislav, a son of prince Vartislav of Pomerania (a region currently divided between Germany and Poland). Margaret changed her new son's name to Erik, and he became king of Norway in 1389. Because of the struggle for power in Sweden going on at the time, Margaret used her influence both there and in Denmark to organize a military campaign against the Swedish king. By 1397, Denmark, Norway and Sweden had united under Margaret's adopted son, Erik, ruling as Eric VII of Pomerania. The agreement they reached was known as the Kalmar Union (signed at Kalmar, Sweden) and it created a united Scandinavian front against threats from Germany and other alliances in the region.

By the early 1500s, Scandinavia, still under the union, had fought in various conflicts to protect both commerce and territory. Although there were three member nations, conflicts between Sweden and Denmark for union control dominated the relationship and had been going on for decades. By the early 1520s, rebellion in Sweden overturned the monarchy and expelled Danish forces. Sweden seceded from the union by 1523. In 1536 the Danish Privy Council declared Norway a Danish province. As a result, Norway was able to retain some national institutions and its legal system, but Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands became Danish possessions. Denmark effectively controlled Norway's affairs for nearly three hundred years thereafter.

Early in the 17th century, tension between Sweden and the Danes flared up again, bringing Norway into alliance with the Danish side, in a conflict known as the Kalmar Wars. The threat of the Habsburgs (the ruling dynasty of Spain and Austria) against much of Northern Europe drew Denmark-Norway into the Thirty Years War during this period as well. Sweden's Charles X, who had already entered into military conflict with Poland and Russia, sought territory in Denmark and Norway, leading to a three year conflict known as the Northern War (1655-1658), in which Sweden was unable to gain much progress in furthering its own kingdom.

By the end of the 17th century, Sweden's role in the region and in Europe was expanding. It had been able to control part of Pomerania and Denmark and much of the Baltics, all to the consternation of its neighbors. Furthermore, Sweden, under Charles X had been able to conquer much of the Holy Roman Empire, and by mid-century controlled the third largest amount of territory in Europe (after Russia and Spain), however because of the persistent and expensive war Sweden fought, its economy and military were weakened. By the time Charles XII came to power as a 14 year old in 1697 after the death of his father Charles XI, Sweden's opponents thought it a much diminished nation.

Just after the turn of the century, Norway was able to gird its borders against further invasion by Sweden and restructure its bureaucracy. Although Norway still fell under Danish rule, Baron Løvendal, Governor of Norway from 1710 - 1713, began the construction of civil and military services to an extent never before seen. Charles X, although repelled by Russia and forced into exile, returned to power and by 1716 sought to invade Norway. After a period of attacks, regrouping and then attacks, the conflict started to draw to a close when Charles X was killed in 1718. The war that lasted over 20 years, known as the Great Northern War, was over in 1721.

The kingdom of Denmark-Norway flourished for the majority of the 18th century. The monarchy abolished tax exemptions for nobility, the kingdom established colonies overseas, and efforts were put forth which stimulated shipping, commerce, and industry. At the same time ideas about individual liberty and social reform which grew out of the Enlightenment movement permeated the Scandinavian social consciousness. Serfdom was abolished, turning peasants into landowners, while free trade and universal education were introduced by the government. Censorship was relaxed and Danish nationalism developed, increasing hostility against Germans and Norwegians.

The Norwegians grew inspired by revolutionary movements in France and the United States. Norway, although it was asserting its desire for national independence, was ultimately unable to gain sovereignty. Denmark allied with France against Britain in the Napoleonic wars, and after Napoleon's defeat in 1814, Denmark granted Norway to Sweden. Although Norway resisted this at first, by the end of the year, the Norwegian parliament (the "Storting") recognized the Swedish king as its ruler as well.

Under the union with the Swedes, the Norwegians were allowed to conduct their own internal affairs, however any foreign policy efforts were handled by the Swedish government. The interests of these two nations diverged as the 19th century wore on. Norway's economy and international relationships were unique with respect to Sweden's and Norway's liberal Parliamentarian orientation clashed with Sweden's monarchical conservatism. Norwegian governments continued to petition the Swedish crown for the right to establish Norwegian consular offices overseas; the king continued to reject this request, for fear of undermining the authority of the throne in determining foreign policy.

In 1905, a coalition formed within the Norwegian government seeking to establish a separate consular corps. As expected, Swedish King Oscar II refused to accept the laws, and the Norwegian government resigned, creating a constitutional crisis.

"...the Storting hereby authorizes the cabinet that resigned today to exercise the powers held by the King in accordance with the Constitution of Norway and relevant laws - with the amendments necessitated by the dissolution of the union with Sweden under one King, resulting from the fact that the King no longer functions as a Norwegian King."

- excerpt from the declaration of dissolution of the union as of June 7, 1905

A Norwegian referendum was requested by the King in order to start the process of negotiating an end to the union. On August 13, over 99% of Norwegians voted in favor of dissolution. By October 26, after a tense period of negotiations, Oscar II renounced his authority over Norway, and any of his descendants' claims to the Norwegian throne.

In the summer of 1905, a Norwegian delegation offered the throne to Prince Carl of Denmark, the second son of the Crown Prince Frederick of Denmark. Not only did he already have a son, but he was also married to Maud of Wales, British King Edward VII's daughter. The support of the British monarchy for independence was highly sought after by the Norwegians. Later that year, after voting for dissolution of the union, Norwegians voted in favor of a monarchy over a republic by about 79% to 21%. The parliament offered Prince Carl the Norwegian throne on November 18, and he accepted before the end of the day. He chose to rule with the name Haakon - the most recent king with that name was Haakon VI, who died in 1380. The new king became Haakon VII, and his two year old son Alexander became Crown Prince Olav. Haakon VII was sworn in on November 27, 1905.

During World War I, Norway remained neutral, however it managed to lose over 800 ships and 2,000 sailors. Furthermore, because of its close ties with Britain and a pervasive anti-German sentiment (Sweden had had close ties with Germany for a number of years), Norway provided supplies to the British in exchange for coal.

Between the end of WWI and the start of WWII, Norway sought a policy of neutrality, most especially because it did not want to oppose Britain. As things in Europe started to heat up, Norwegian policies promoting fiscal control, pacifism, and neutrality met more and more opposition. Just after the declaration of war on the Germans by the British and French started World War II, the Nazis invaded a number of nations, including Norway. In April 1940, the Germans attacked major Norwegian port cities and in one battle, the Norwegian army, with assistance from the British, French and Polish managed to repel the invaders for 2 months. This resistance gave the King and government enough time to leave the country with the treasury and form an exile government in London.

The Nazis, however, were able to subdue the resistance and take control of much of Norway by early May. Their nominal leader in Norway, Vidkun Quisling, sought to both ensure economic stability and ameliorate the effect the occupation had on Norwegians. The Nazis faced stiff resistance by banning all political parties except one ("Nasjonal Samling" - means National Gathering) and forcing unions and other organizations to be led by National Gathering leaders.

The resistance to Nazi occupation was supported by the British. One of the key victories achieved by the Norwegian resistance working with British special operations was to destroy the Vemork "heavy water" plant in Rjukan, possibly preventing the Germans from building an atom bomb. Furthermore, during the occupation, about 12,000 children were born to Norwegian women and German soldiers. After the war ended, most of the women and children suffered severely as a result, and many children were sent away to homes or used as test subjects for medical experiments.

Norway was liberated from German occupation in May 1945 by Norwegian troops being trained using Swedish facilities and weapons. During the liberation, over 20,000 were captured, sentenced and imprisoned for various offenses. Thirty-seven people were executed between 1945 and 1948. Vidkun Quisling, the leader of the only political party allowed to remain in power by the Nazis, was executed on Oct. 24, 1945, for a number of offenses, assistance with the deportation of Jews among them.

After World War II, as a result of its occupation by the Germans, Norway has sought an approach to foreign policy and economic development known to some as the "Norwegian model". In 1949, Norway became one of the founding members of NATO, and the first secretary general to the United Nations was Trygve Lie, a Norwegian. Additionally, in the 1960s, large oil reserves were discovered off its coast, leading to a period of economic prosperity. In both 1972 and 1994, however, Norway rejected joining the European Union, though it chose to remain part of the European Economic Area. It is currently the only Scandinavian country that is not a member of the EU, although it has retained very strong ties with both the UK and other Nordic Council nations (Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland).

The Labor Party (left), led by current Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg has been in power for much of the last half century. The Labor Party ruled Norway as a majority administration (held the majority of Parliamentary seats) until 1981. The conservative government then took over as a minority administration, building to a majority in 1983 by adding two additional parties to its coalition. Twice, soon after the conservative party formed parliamentary coalitions, the Labour party was able to regain power - once in 1986, and again in 1990. In 1997, Labour removed itself from power, giving way to a centrist coalition - Christian Democrats, the Liberal Party and the Center Party. This coalition made up 25% of parliament, but was ousted in 2000 by the Labour Party and new Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg before it was able to complete a full term.


In October 2001, Labor and PM Stoltenberg gave up power to a centre-right coalition of the Conservatives, Christian Democrats and the Liberal Party. This new government was headed by former PM Kjell Magne Bondevik. One of the keys to pushing the government's agenda was cooperation by the conservative Progress Party. The continuous attempts by the Progress Party to exploit their position to dictate policy started to agitate more centrist members of the coalition, weakening the coalition and bringing Labor back into power. Current PM Stoltenberg has held office since October 2005 and has been Labor leader since 2002. He has assisted in the formation of the current ruling party of the government, the center-left coalition with the Socialist Left Party and the agrarian Centre Party. Mr. Stoltenberg's personal approval ratings have remained high, while the coalition seeks another term in the general election to be held in September 2009.

Norway remains one of the most peaceful and stable democracies in the world. It has used the wealth gained from fossil fuels to support its very progressive social welfare system, and at the same time is highly dependent on hydroelectric power based on its access to rivers and mountains. It also has one of the highest rates of broadband penetration in the world integrated within a very modernized telecommunications infrastructure. Through the hard-earned experience of WWII occupation, Norway has taken an enlightened view of international conflict, and has managed to serve as both mediator and peacekeeper in many theaters of conflict around the world. Although there is some dissent on both sides of the political spectrum about its relationship to NATO and the EU, Norway maintains peaceful relations with all its neighboring nations. Norway continues to function as diplomat, business partner and ally to many nations in Europe and around the globe while maintaining a stable and productive society based on its rich and unique history.





May 04, 2009

Portugal - Positioned to Prosper

By Red Sox Steve

About 5,000 years before the recorded birth of Christ, descendants of the Neolithic era lived in tribal societies in what we now know as Portugal and Spain. Some historians believe that because their language bears no resemblance to the Indo-European languages that spread across Europe, they did not emigrate from other regions. These people, later believed to be from the Kingdom of Iberia on the eastern coast of the Black Sea, were knowledgeable in bronze metalworking and agricultural processes, and eventually moved away from isolated groups and into more urbanized settings.

Because this area was rich in bronze, tin, silver and copper, seagoing societies were present on the peninsula as of the 14th century BCE - Phoenicians and later Greeks established colonies in the southeastern Iberian region. Some historians say that by 600 BCE, Celtic people came across the Pyrenees. As they occupied an ever larger portion of the Iberian peninsula, they mixed with and dislocated the Iberians, resulting in a culture that can be referred to as Celtiberia. Originally, the Greeks gave the peninsular Iberians their name; however as Celtiberian culture took hold, the term Iberian was applied to any culture south of the Pyrenees that managed to retain its original non-Celtic identity.

After 600 BCE, the Carthaginians had taken over Phoenician trade routes, and later those of the Greeks. Because the Carthaginians were able to acquire the ports of southern Spain, the Greeks were diverted to the southern mouth of the Rhone River, and the port city of Massalia (today, Marseille). This trajectory put the Greeks, and then the Romans, on a course to interact with the Celtic tribes in France and Germany, thus leading to the creation of ties between European and Mediterranean societies that were influential for centuries thereafter.

The subsequent centuries saw Carthage and Rome enter into two different eras of decades long conflict, known as the First and Second Punic Wars. At their completion, Carthage had ceded all its territory on the Iberian peninsula to Rome. In 197 BCE, Rome divided Spain into two provinces, known as Hispania Citerior ("Near Spain") and Hispania Ulterior ("Far Spain"). Rome sought the precious metals that had motivated its predecessors in the region, and later found that the area had fertile farmlands, and were thus able to produce olives, wine, and grain with the assistance of over 50,000 slave laborers. Because Rome was highly encouraged by these rewards, Roman legions fought heavily against existing tribes in order to occupy this region. From the Ebro valley westward, the Romans fought against the Celtiberians, Iberians, and Lusitanis. Although history records a major defeat of the tribal peoples in 133 BC, Rome did not rule the entire Iberian peninsula until decades later.

By 411 CE, Roman rule was supplanted by tribes moving into the Iberian peninsula from the north - the Vandals and Suebi (both Germanic) occupied Spain. Just a few years later, the Visigoths (Germanic) occupied parts of Gaul and Spain, driving out the Vandals. Although Roman authority had been removed, Roman influence remained in Spain and dominated the era of Visigothic rule. By the latter half of the fifth century, it was under a Visigothic king, Euric, that the they were at the height of their power. Not only were they recognized by the Roman emperor as being in control of Gaul and Spain, but even the Persians sought to make peace with Euric.

After Euric passed away, his son Alaric II sought to retain a similar amount of influence, but because of his support for Arianism, was opposed by the Roman Catholic church, acting through Frankish king Clovis I. In the early 6th century, Clovis confronted the Visigoths at the Battle of Vouille, near Poitiers, France. Alaric was killed and the Visigoths were defeated. They moved their capital to Toledo, while any who remained in Gaul were converted from Arianism to Roman Catholicism.

By the second half of the 6th century, the Visigothic kingdom had withstood threats from the Franks, Byzantines and the Basques. However, when Visigothic king Leovigild came to power in 569, he was able to unite the Visigoths and Iberians, and defeat the Germanic Suebi. However, Aryan and Roman Catholic tensions remained at the fore - Leovigild's son, Hermenigild, married a Catholic and renounced Arianism. As a result, the king had his son executed, and Hermenigild was later canonized by the Catholic Church. Leovigild's other son, Recared also converted to Catholicism and was able to unite the kingdom. As the church became more dominant over the course of the 7th century, Visigothic power grew weaker and weaker. The final blow to Visigothic rule was rendered quickly after King Roderic took power in 710. The invading Moors from the Middle East and Africa defeated his army in the Battle of Rio Barbate in 711, and during the Battle of Laguna de Janda, it is thought that Roderick was killed. The invading Moors had defeated the Visigoths and claimed much of Spain for Islam.

In claiming much of the Iberian peninsula for Islam, the Moors were carrying forward a journey which has its origins far to the east, starting in the previous century. In 570, in Mecca (Saudi Arabia), a boy named Mohammed was born and later orphaned. He was raised by other family members and worked as a merchant and a shepherd. As he grew older, he became more religious and less contented with his life in Mecca. He retreated from life in Mecca to surrounding caves, and began to meditate. By 610, he received his first revelations from Allah, in the Islamic month of Ramadan. By another revelation, he traveled on a winged animal to Jerusalem, the third holy city of Islam (after Mecca and Medina). He put down these revelations and other passages in a Muslim holy book called the Qur'an. The religion he had founded before he died in 632 was known as Islam, meaning "submission to God."

The Moorish conquest of the Iberian peninsula was carried out by general Tarik ibn Ziyad. Tarik, coming across the Strait of Gibraltar with 7,000 men, arrived on the peninsula in May 711. By July, they had defeated Roderick at the Battle of Guadalete - he then captured the Visigothic capital, Toledo. By 719, as a result of further progress, the Moors had been able to place more than half the peninsula under their rule. Although the Moors attempted to cross the Pyrenees into Frankish territory, they were repelled, and remained on the peninsula.

The area the Moors controlled was known as al-Andalus ("Islamic Spain"), and was considered part of the Province of North Africa. Tensions around 750 between controlling Muslim dynasties in Syria pushed the Umayyad dynasty out of Syria, and into Spain. By 756, Abd ar-Rahman, a member of the Umayyad dynasty was able to come to power in Spain - he made himself governor of Cordoba, an independent emirate of Islamic Spain. In 929, his descendant Abd ar-Rahman III an-Nasir became a caliphate of Cordoba, growing it into one of the largest cities in the Mediterranean region.

By the beginning of the 9th century, Alfonso III, king of the northern Spanish kingdom of Asturias, had conquered some Christian and Muslim lands on the peninsula; at the same time the Frankish kingdom and other Christian kingdoms on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees had emerged. Simultaneously during this period, the Moorish cities on the Iberian peninsula became independent of the Umayyad dynasty - the caliph was no longer in control.

By 1085, Alfonso VI took Toledo from the Moors, pronouncing it the capital of the kingdom of Castile. As a result, Muslim leaders in Spain sought the assistance of the military leader Yusuf ibn Tashuvin and the Almoravids, a North African muslim dynasty. They were able to recapture Muslim kingdoms and successfully block the Christian advance, naming Seville the new regional capital. By 1097, however, Alfonso VI conquered the northern section of Portugal and made it a Castilian county. Christianity and the non-Islamic kingdoms of Spain were expanding, while at the same time the influence of Islam was declining.

Historians call the period just after Muslims controlled nearly the entire peninsula in 718 to the time the Moors were finally driven from Granada in 1492 the Reconquista. During this period, there were conflicts between the Moors, ruling from Toledo and then Seville, and other regional kings. It is also during this time that Portugal was able to assert itself as an independent kingdom.

Alfonso VI gave Portugal to his son-in-law, Henry of Burgundy in 1097, ruling as the count of Portugal under the kingdom of Asturias until his death in 1112. After Henry's death, his son Alfonso I ruled the region as a count. During his countship, he was able to bring the northern counties of Portucale and Coimbra under his authority, and Braga, a city in the region, became a Catholic center on the Iberian peninsula. The lords ruling all three sought to assert Portugal's independence, and this became so in 1139, with Alfonso I becoming the first king of an independent Portugal after defeating the Moors in southern part of the country.

During the remaining part of his rule, Alfonso I was able to conquer Lisbon, and push the Portuguese border further south. By the time Alfonso III came to power in 1248, the monarchy and the Christians were able to push the Moors entirely off the Portuguese portion of the peninsula, taking Algarve, the southernmost region for Portugal. Although the Reconquista was to continue for over two centuries, Portugal had expelled the Moors, having become a peninsular center for feudalism and Christianity in the process.

By time the Moors were driven from Portugal, the nation had little involvement in the remaining portion of the Reconquista. Furthermore, it had established nearly the entire border of the nation that exists today. As the 13th century continued, the monarchy worked to establish its own authority over the church and nobility. A legislative system had been instituted as well - the Cortes (a representative assembly) was made up of commoners and worked with kings to achieve a balanced government. Although there were alliances through marriage between Portugal and Castile during the 14th century, Castilian influence was strongly resisted by the Portuguese. It was also during the 14th century that the Portuguese would enter into what is currently the world's oldest alliance - in 1373, the English and Portuguese signed the Anglo-Portuguese Alliance (also known as the Treaty of Windsor, agreed to in 1386). Prior to this, the English had assisted the Portuguese by sending crusaders to assist in the defeat of the Moors in Lisbon in the 12th century, and this agreement would later draw the English into conflicts in assistance of the Portuguese.

For reasons ranging from the amount of coastline it possessed to the potential for further conflict with different Spanish kingdoms, the Portuguese began to pursue maritime economic relationships. As is customary with alliances formed during the Middle Ages, it was marriage between King John I of Portugal and Philippa of Lancaster, daughter of the English duke of Lancaster, John of Gaunt that buttressed the agreement. Their son, Prince Henry of Portugal, later came to be known as Prince Henry, the Navigator. Early in the 15th century, Henry became both involved in the conflict to repel the Moors from northern Africa and aware of the riches that lay on that continent. In 1420, he was appointed to the Order of Christ and gained access to the church's wealth in order to wage war against the Moors in Africa. For much of the rest of his life, Henry would continue to enhance the gold trade with Western Africa, stop pirates from attacking the Portuguese coast and attempt to locate a legendary Christian kingdom that lay somewhere in the Far East.

Subsequent to the end of the Reconquista, the Portuguese became aware that the Spanish monarchy was seeking another trade route to India, and was able to become a party to the Treaty of Tordesillas of 1493. Deliberated over by Pope Alexander VI, the agreement drew an imaginary line between the Americas and the west coast of Africa in an attempt to avoid conflict between Spain and Portugal. Essentially, the Spanish were able to obtain the Americas, and Portugal to Africa. Later, this treaty was renegotiated because when it was signed, there was little understanding of the size of South America; Portugal was able to settle Brazil as a result.

During the 16th century because of its seagoing focus, Portugal could claim parts of South America, India, Timor, Taiwan, Africa, Malaysia, Japan and China as being under its dominion, and was trading everything from metals to slaves across this empire.

In 1580, Portuguese King Sebastian died in battle in Morocco. Because he had no natural heir, the Spanish House of Habsburg claimed personal union with Portugal, ruling it for 60 years. The ensuing conflict to restore the sovereignty of Portugal is known as the Portuguese Restoration War. In 1640, the grandson of the claimant to the throne in 1580, John IV, Duke of Braganza, was recognized as King of Portugal. This began the ruling dynasty known as the House of Braganza, which would remain in power until the 20th century. John IV died in 1656, and by 1657, Spain had again invaded Portugal. Because King John had secured alliances with other European powers before his death, by 1668, England's Charles II was able to get both sides to agree to the Treaty of Lisbon, returning any territory claimed as a result of the conflict.

Because of the ties that Portugal had sought to construct, they were drawn into the War of Spanish Succession in the early part of the 18th century. The British, Dutch, Austrians, Savoys (Spain), and Prussians were all opposed to the combining of the Spanish and French monarchies under the House of Bourbon. However, Portugal also benefited greatly from its remaining colonial territories during this period as well. Because of the diamond and gold discoveries in Brazil, Portuguese King John V (1706-1750) was able to undertake extravagant construction projects, using Versailles and Louis XIV as examples in how to spend material wealth.

King John's successor, however, ushered in a new era of governance over Portugal and its citizens. In 1750, Joseph I assumed the throne in Portugal, and installed Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, later known as Pombal, to manage the kingdom (equivalent to a prime minister today). Informed by his experience as an ambassador to England, when Pombal became head of government, he instituted a number of reforms which served to eliminate policies oriented around racial and religious discrimination, and abolished slavery in Portugal as well as Portuguese colonies in India. Although, prior to his rule, the Portuguese economy was unimpressive, it was stable because of its colonial relationship with Brazil and its economic treaty with England.

Pombal instituted a number of economic reforms designed to increase Portugal's self-sufficiency, and imposed a number of reforms on Portugal's tax system. He created a number of companies and guilds in order to regulate every commercial activity. He instituted new rules to ensure the quality of the nation's port (wine) production, being the first in Europe to attempt to do so. He is also created with beginning the nation's secular public primary and secondary school system, vocational training, and creating hundreds of new teaching posts in mathematics and natural sciences at the University of Coimbra; subsequently he introduced new taxes to pay for these reforms. During the 1760s, he recognized the Jesuit hold over educational institutions as being a negative and began to advocate for the order's expulsion from Portugal. Partly due to his efforts, in 1773 Pope Clement XIV order the dissolution of the Societas Jesu.

By 1792, John V, grandson of Joseph I, had taken over as monarch. John aligned himself against the French and Spanish, and with the British in resisting the spread of the French revolution. Before the end of the 18th century, Spain attacked Portugal as a result of Portuguese refusal to stop trading with the British. This brief conflict, called the War of the Oranges, ended with the signing of the Treaty of Badajoz on June 6, 1801, forcing Portugal to shut its ports to British trade, giving France special trading status, giving Olivenza to Spain and part of Brazil to France. Britain later defeated a Franco-Spanish alliance, resulting in a restoration of amicable relations between Portugal and Britain. Napoleon continued to pressure Portugal - in 1807, he invaded Portugal, and a year later, attacked his former ally, Spain, in order to gain control of the Iberian Peninsula. By 1811, the British had come to the assistance of Portugal and helped to end the so-called Peninsular Wars by forcing French forces back to France while Napoleon was occupied in Austria.

Portuguese colonial influence in many parts of the world was waning, as evidenced by the 1822 independence of Brazil, as well as numerous sites in Asia. Africa, however, was where Portugal was able to expand its possessions. It increased its holdings to eventually include Cape Verde, São Tomé and Príncipe, Guinea-Bissau, Angola, and Mozambique. Because Portugal had focused its efforts on Africa, especially southern Africa, Portuguese explorers were among the first Europeans to cross Africa, west to east. In 1877, Portugal began a project to connect all its territories in the region, calling it the Pink Map. The British, however, had designs of their own on Africa, seeking to form a contiguous territory from Cape Town to Cairo. The British plan was called the British Ultimatum of 1890 and King Carlos I of Portugal agreed to abide by it. On August 20, 1890 the Treaty of London was signed between Portugal and the UK, outlining the territory of Angola and Mozambique. 10 days later, the Treaty was presented to the Portuguese parliament, ultimately leading to protests and the downfall of the government. Because the Portuguese parliament failed to ratify the treaty, a new one was negotiated and accepted by both governments later that year, however the King's reaction to it had implications of its own.

Pressure was applied to Charles' monarchy by a constituency who had no desire to be ruled by a king and wanted Portugal to become a republic. In 1906, Charles appointed João Franco as prime minister, giving Charles the freedom to live a lavish personal life at the expense of his people. On February 1, 1908, Charles and his son and heir to the throne Luis Felipe, were murdered in Lisbon. Luis Felipe's brother Manuel became king, and by 1910 was removed from power, ending an 800 year old monarchy. The Portuguese republic was born.

From the beginning of the First Portuguese Republic in 1911 until the beginning of a period of dictatorship called "Ditadura Nacional" (Portuguese for National Dictatorship) in 1926, the nation's affairs were poorly managed. According to some sources, they had 8 presidents and 38 prime ministers during this time. Furthermore, although they aligned with the victorious British and French in WWI, their military contribution was minimal. The political instability and the perception of disorder and chaos that was created would not keep the discontented military and its conservative political supporters at bay. What is known as the May 28 Revolution took place in 1926, and put in place a dictatorship that would last until 1974.

The "Ditadura Nacional" lasted from 1926 until 1933. During this period, a national trade union was dissolved, a policy of censorship was instituted, and political power became more accessible to military leaders. By 1933, to concentrate power even further, all trade unions were prohibited, a single political party ruled the government, censorship became more widespread and a new regime grew out of the old one: Estado Novo. The Estado Novo was developed by António de Oliveira Salazar, who had risen to power starting in 1928. Although he was fully in control of Portugal between the rise of Mussolini in Italy and Franco in Spain, Salazar was merely a Catholic Nationalist who believed in stability in government and economic growth, albeit at the expense of democracy.

When World War II began in September 1939, Portugal and Spain were already parties to a Treaty of Friendship and Non-Aggression ("Pacto Iberico"); Salazar, although he shared Hitler's right wing orientation, did not approve of what the Nazis were doing, and consequently was critical in preventing Spain's Franco from joining the Axis. Although both nations had declared neutrality, Spain often provided aid to Germany while Portugal fastidiously adhered to its agreement. Portugal continued to trade with both Allied and Axis powers through the end of the war, and only stopped any economic relations with Germany near the end of the conflict as a result of applied Allied pressure.

Although Salazar pursued a progressive stance domestically, continuing to construct roads and improve education, the economic relationship he sought to cultivate with Portugal's colonies was tantamount to feudalism. There were over 800,000 square miles of Portuguese colonies being ruled by a mother country of a mere 35,000 square miles. He sought to encourage settlement and investment in the colonies for the benefit of Portugal, however he was faced with an anti-colonial movement, especially in India and Africa. By the early 1960s, India took back Goa, while uprisings in Africa were the proverbial fork in the road for the Salazar administration: should they expend financial and military resources that they don't have in order to quell uprisings in Mozambique and Angola, defying much of the world's opinion in the process? Salazar did just that in 1964 with much of its African holdings, however he suffered a stroke and gave up office in 1968 dying 2 years later.

Portugal's self-identification as an "organic democracy" rather than a "civilian police dictatorship" put it in a precarious position even though it shifted to the winning side near the end of World War II. Although Portugal was not present when the UN was officially established, it became a member in 1955. Because of the presence of military bases on the Azores islands off its coast, it was, however, a founding member of NATO. Because it possessed the mineral resources that a devastated Europe needed to rebuild, it experienced economic growth throughout the postwar 1940s and 1950s. By the 1960s however, democratic ideals could not be restrained. During the 1962 "Academic Crisis", the Salazar government feared further economic liberalization and the increasing desire for democracy among students. With the support of the Portuguese Communist Party, the students responded to government crackdowns with massive demonstrations. Simultaneously, many young men feared involvement in the Portuguese Colonial War meant to retain its African colonies. As a result, over 2 million people left for more developed places like France, the USA, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.

By the 1970s, Salazar's rule had ended, and Portugal, under the rule of Marcelo Caetano continued to pursue some of his predecessor's goals. While 1 of every 4 men had been conscripted to fight in the Portuguese Colonial War, nearly the entire Portuguese labor force was working in support of the combat forces. While Caetano lacked the support to deviate from Salazar's policies, he had no choice but to rely on military officials, working in Lisbon, for any decision or advice related to the conflict.

There was increasing disillusionment among junior officers due to the increasingly difficult circumstances they faced in Africa. Higher ranking field officers soon started to feel the war had no end in sight. Although the writings of the African revolutionary leaders were disseminated by Portuguese high command, many Portuguese soldiers soon started to share their enemies' perspectives. Back in Portugal a non-violent protest was planned by the military. On April 25, 1974, coded messages were disseminated through the radio, troops moved to government buildings to take charge of their operations, and high ranking officials were placed under arrest. Many soldiers posted at strategic locations in Lisbon placed flowers in their rifle barrels, symbolizing the fact that no shots had been fired to achieve their goal. What came to be known as the "Carnation Revolution" ended the oppressive dictatorship that had been suffocating Portugal.

Soon after Caetano was deposed, a power vacuum was created, and popular tension and turmoil dispersed throughout the country. Political parties of all stripes were legalized, and political prisoners were released, while political exiles returned to their country. Leaders of the provisional government promised elections for a constituent assembly within a year, the first in more than 50 years.

Later in 1974, there was turbulence at the governmental level, which increased during 1975. The MFA (Movimento das Forças Armadas, Armed Forces Movement), which had originally deposed Caetano had been able to remain in power. It used its ability to both nationalize banking, utilities and insurance companies as well as apply pressure to the larger political parties to recognize the MFA as a permanent supervisory party over this "guided" democracy. During the elections, the moderate leftists came in first, followed by the moderate rightists, with the extremists on both sides gaining 12 percent of the vote each.

Because of both persistent lawlessness and continual pressure by the MFA (now presenting itself as a national liberation movement), the centrist ruling parties were forced to resign in 1975. The following year, the MFA had renegotiated its relationship with the other political parties, and new elections were held in April. Lieutenant Colonel António Ramalho Eanes, who had earlier purged his party, the MFA, of all radical elements, won with 61.5% of the vote.

The representative legislature, known as the Constituent Assembly, wanted to create a new system of government, based on the French model. It called for an elected president, as well as a prime minister chosen by either the majority party or a coalition resulting from a democratic parliament. The parties managed to negotiate a constitutional agreement calling for socialism as a governmental goal, and retaining the military-oriented Revolutionary Council, in order to both guard the revolution's legacy and judge the constitutionality of any governmental legislation.

Starting with parliamentary elections in 1979, anti-democratic components of the government started to fade away. In 1982, the Revolutionary Council was abolished. The election of 1986 saw Mario Soares (Socialist Party), Portugal's first civilian president, come to power. By 1989, reforms were instituted which eliminated a constitutional requirement that parts of the economy remain nationalized. Moderate parties dominated the political sphere, increasing the stability of the democratic system. In 1986 the European Economic Community (now the European Union) accepted Portugal as a member, liberalizing trade and investment, spurring economic growth above the EU average in the 1990s.

From 1985-1995, Anibal Cavaco Silva of the center-right Social Democratic Party (PSD) was Prime Minister, and from 1986-1996, Mario Soares of the center-left Socialist Party (PS) was President. Starting in 1995, Antonio Guterres returned the PS to the prime ministership. During this period, Portugal continued to integrate into the EU, continuing to both privatize state assets and focus on social spending and investment. The PS was re-elected for a second four-year term in October 1999, although with the economy seriously deteriorating, the PS was defeated in local elections in 2001. Guterres resigned as prime minister and party leader, setting in motion a March 2002 general election.

Jose Socrates (PS), the current prime minister, has been in power since March 2005, under the presidency of Anibal Cavaco Silva (independent and formerly PSD). In February 2005, the PS was able to return to power, usurping the hold of the coalition PSD and Popular Party. It was also the first time that the PS had an absolute majority in parliament in its modern history. Portugal ran a budget deficit that was more than twice the limit allowed by EU treaty, necessitating tax increases and administrative reforms, causing widespread demonstration by public sector workers. Cavaco Silva, the first right-of-center president in Portugal's modern history, seeks to be more involved with governmental reforms than the constitution allows, due to the economic pressures Portugal faces.

Portugal took the EU presidency in July 2007, focusing on agreement on a new EU treaty, the Lisbon Agenda for growth and competitiveness. This agreement was signed by EU heads of government in December 2007, but because Ireland has rejected it, its future remains uncertain. The treaty cannot become effective until it has been approved by all 27 EU members. Ireland, which sees the agreement to streamline EU institutions as a threat to the sovereignty of EU nations, refuses to ratify it. As more and more nations do, however, Ireland will come under increased pressure.

Portugal began the slow process of modernizing its nation only after the military which deposed its dictator no longer had a role in the representative functions of the government. Today, although Portugal remains in a fiscal crisis and must make changes in order to fall in line with EU regulations, it has transformed into a stable democratic and peaceful nation. Because of its relatively small size, it has less influence than some of its neighbors, however, to someone who understands the history of this nation, that is nothing new. Although it was the earliest of its contemporaries to establish itself as a global empire, more recently it has used its neighboring countries as models of governance. Because the union of nations it belongs to, the European Union, is the most modernized form of collaborative international government in place today, it is in the right position to continue the trajectory of its own development into a nation willing to play a part in the 21st century.





April 26, 2009

Germany - The Oldest 19 Year Old Nation On Earth!

By Red Sox Steve

During the Neolithic Age in northern Scandinavia, tribal people organized into distinct, yet small economies meant to sustain an agriculturally based lifestyle for the first time in human history. Tribes in what we now call Denmark and Sweden were isolated from many of the technological and cultural changes sweeping across Asia until about 2000 BCE (Before Common Era). As technology and trade spread through this region, it was adopted over a matter of centuries - there is evidence that soon after 1300 BCE, iron quickly supplanted bronze as the metal of choice in farming tools and long distance commerce, mostly because it was the most abundant mineral in the area.

As Germanic tribes moved south from northern lands beyond the borders of present-day Germany, they settled in the various mountain and river regions we find in Germany today. The Alemanni and Suevi settled on the upper Rhine, the Franks came to occupy the lower and middle Rhine, the Saxons settled the land between the Weser and Elbe Rivers and the Harz Mountains, while the Thuringians made their homes just south of the Saxons. Between 600 and 300 BCE, the Goths roamed up the Vistula river to the Carpathian Mountains, toward the Black Sea; the Vandals settled in Silesia, and the Markommani in Bohemia.

Around the beginning of the Common Era, Rome, infused with the desire to grow its kingdom and defeat local tribes in the process, moved northward into Gaul and continued progress eastward towards the Rhine River. By some accounts, it was south of present-day Vienna that the Roman army first came into contact with a Germanic tribe in 113 BCE. What is most interesting about the people of this region is that the nomenclature the Romans used to describe them is still with us today. The word "barbarian" was used by the Romans as a political label to describe all those living beyond the borders of the Roman empire and has its origins in the Greek word "barbaros" which means "foreigner". "Germanic" was the word used to describe these tribal people only to indicate that they were purely Celtic, unlike other tribes in the region - "Germani" has a meaning similar to "genuine" in this context; Romans considered these people the "germ", or originators, of the Celtic ethnicity.

By 12 CE, Rome, under Drusus (son of Augustus, the Roman emperor at the time) conquered Germania between the Rhine and Elbe Rivers, pushing the Roman empire farther to the north and east in the process. Later conflict between the Germanic prince Arminius and the Roman army led by Varus forced the Romans to accept a Rhine-Danube eastern border, instead of one delineated by the Elbe river. On the western side of the Rhine, the Romans thus established both Upper (Superior) and Lower (Inferior) Germany as Roman empire border provinces.

The Goths who moved into Germania came in from the Baltic Sea. The western branch of this tribe was known as the Visigoths who moved into Germania, while the eastern branch was known as the Ostrogoths who established an empire from southern Russia to Scandinavia. While the Visigoths started off as allies of Rome and defended the Roman empire's eastern frontier, the relationship did not end this way. Citing mistreatment by the Romans, the Visigoths rebelled, defeating the Romans at the Battle of Adrianople (modern-day Edirne in eastern Turkey) in 378. After their defeat at Adrianople the Romans allowed the barbarians to settle within their Western Empire. Another tribe associated with the Goths, the Vandals, moved across the Rhine in 406, and later gained control of northwest Africa. The Burgundians, an eastern Germanic tribe, ended up settling in Gaul; the Angles and Saxons settled in England; and the west Germanic Franks were able to move into northern and central Gaul. The Visigoths sacked Rome in 410, eventually migrating into southern Gaul and Spain while the Ostrogoths briefly established a kingdom in Rome under Theodoric the Great until being defeated by the invading Roman army in 535. Despite its successes during this period, the dominance of Germanic tribes in continental Europe was slowly being replaced by feudalism in the form of the French monarchy.

In 496 at the Battle of Tolbiac (central/western Germany), the Frankish king Clovis I defeated the Germanic Alemanni, and various French kings deposed the leaders of the Germanic tribes, the Thuringians and Bavarians, starting the irreversible unification of remaining Germanic tribes. Charles Martel, the first king under the Frankish Carolingian dynasty, defeated the Frisians, a Germanic tribe occupying the modern-day Netherlands, while Charlemagne conquered the Saxons. In about 800, Charlemagne became the ruler of medieval Germany, and was coronated as "Emperor ever august of the Romans" by Pope Leo III. Under the Treaty of Verdun of 843 however, Charlemagne's son, Louis the Pious, divided the empire among his sons, giving the western part to Charles the Bald, the eastern part to Louis the German, and to Lothair a strip between them bordered by the North Sea and Italy.

The result of early 10th century conflict between regional counts in Germany was that Conrad I ("Conrad the Younger") became Duke of Franconia. He was the nephew of the last Carolingian king of eastern Franconia, Louis the Child (son of Louis the German) who died in 911. Conrad I was subsequently elected King of Franconia by high nobility and ruled until his death in 918, thus becoming the first non-Carolingian monarch (Conrad was part of the Conradine dynasty) to rule Germany. After his death, the duke of Saxony, Henry the Fowler (known for training hawks), was elected king Henry I (ruling from 919–936), ruler of the kingdom of the Germans, starting the Saxonian (a/k/a Ottonian) dynasty. Otto I (ruling from 936–973) followed Henry I, and concentrated his rule with the church's assistance, against threats made by the nobility to his monarchy. The German monarchy and the Roman Empire were officially unified in 962 with Otto's coronation as Emperor.

Subsequent German kings were thus able to control the papacy for approximately 90 more years, supporting the strengthening and reform of the church. The control of the church by the monarchy was, however, lost by Henry IV (b. 1056–d. 1106), as Pope Nicholas II 1059 established the College of Cardinals, which replaced the emperor in selecting the pope. Henry was also in conflict with Pope Gregory VII (1073–1085) due to the papal decree that removed the power of lay officials to appoint bishops and other church officers. This separation between church and state was opposed by Henry IV, resulting in his excommunication and ultimate surrender of much of the monarch's authority over the church during the later part of the 11th century. Henry IV's successor, Henry V, was subsequently only able to select German higher clergy, but not Italian clergy, thus granting a significant degree of freedom to both churches.

The next powerful emperor to take the throne in Germany was Frederick I (Barbarossa, the "Red Beard") who had been duke of Swabia (southern Germany). Frederick I's rule (1152 - 1190) was the combination of two German dynasties - his father was Duke Frederick II of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, and his mother was Judith, daughter of Henry IX, from the enemy House of Welf. By some historical accounts, it was during his rule that the term 'Holy Roman Empire' became regularly used. Frederick I used Roman law to create a feudal kingdom out of Germany as opposed to the centralized monarchy that had existed previously. This ultimately led to a decline in centrally administered power, and fragmented the empire's territories.

Frederick II (monarch from 1212–1250) sacrificed some of his power in Germany in favor of control over parts of Italy. He shifted his power over the German Church to the papacy, granting free elections of bishops and abbots, and gave permanent concessions regarding legal jurisdiction and taxes to the nobility. Frederick II is regarded as one of the most enlightened rulers in German history, most especially due to his patronage of science and the arts, along with his ability to speak a handful of languages. His willingness to comply with the demands of German princes served to constrain the power of the monarchy, producing a system where German territories were independent enough to establish their own systems of justice.

Seven years after Frederick's death in 1257, territorial princes created their own electoral college of the emperor, which was formally codified by an empirical decree known as the Golden Bull of 1356. The Golden Bull of 1356 designated seven princes with the power to elect the emperor through an electoral college, and also endorsed a diffusion of the king's power into the territories ruled by princes themselves. This decree was put in place by Charles IV, undermining efforts to centralize power by the then rulers of Germany, the Habsburg Dynasty. The emperor was faced with a dissolution of control for the duration of Habsburg rule, at times placing empirical desires against the interests of the electors, princes, and towns. The Reich, the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation, continued serving as the lone force that had the ability to protect weaker states from foreign threats for the duration of the empire's rule.

The Habsburg dynasty came into power in Germany with Rudolf I being elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1273. In subsequent years, he was able to gain parts of the Czech Republic and Austria, however lost territory in Switzerland. Moving forward to the 15th century, Albert II of Habsburg (1437–39) inherited the Hungarian and Czech crowns, as well as the title of Holy Roman Emperor. It was however a later member of the Habsburg dynasty that created a power structure that lasted until World War I. By a 1477 marriage between Maximilian I and Mary of Burgundy, Burgundy and the Netherlands became Habsburg provinces; Philip, son of Maximilian (known as Philip the Handsome) married Juana de Loca the eldest daughter of Ferdinand of Aragon (Spain) and Isabella of Castile (Spain) and these lands were passed to their son Charles. In 1526 Hungary, Bohemia-Moravia, and Silesia also came under the influence of the Habsburgs. In 1556, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V separated the empire into a western (passed into Bourbon hands during the War of Spanish Succession) and an eastern part (remained under the House of Habsburg until the end of WWI).

In Roman Catholicism, it is the practice of the church to remit existing punishment resulting from the performance of a sin by granting an indulgence to the sinner. By granting indulgences, the Catholic Church is giving a spiritual reward to an individual it considers worthy of such a benefit. Indulgences are commonly granted by the church after the sinner performs acts such as prayer, Scripture reading or saying of the Rosary. In order to validate the indulgence, the sinner most likely will receive the Eucharist (representing the body of Jesus Christ) or renounce his or her sin.

The Roman Catholic Church introduced the practice of granting indulgences during the Crusades for Crusaders who did not complete their penances; this practice became more widely used by Catholic laypeople, fearing the suffering that occurred in Purgatory. During the 14th century, Pope Clement VI proclaimed the presence of a "treasury of merit," a collection of good works a pope could dispense at his discretion. The church told the laity that indulgences would not only remit their punishment, but also the punishment of any of their dead relatives still in Purgatory. The church, based on the principle that it was able to grant indulgences to sinners, began to use them as a major source of revenue by dispensing them for cash under the auspices of almsgiving by the laity.

By the early 16th century, Pope Julius II was granting indulgences to raise funds for the construction of Saint Peter's church in Rome. Near Wittenberg, in Saxony, the church was offering indulgences, partly in order to pay the debt of the territory's archbishop, the Archbishop Albrecht of Mainz, who was to receive one-half of the revenues. A professor of Scripture at the university in Wittenberg, Martin Luther, became aware of the church's practice, and, based on his study of the biblical St. Paul's Epistle to the Romans had an entirely different conclusion about the relationship between Bible, Church, and faith in God. Roman Catholic teaching, was, and remains even today, centered on the idea that the clergy, working under the authority of the pope, is the ultimate interpreter of faith and Biblical teachings, and any faith one had in God needed to be augmented by religious observance and good works. Martin Luther's conclusion in approximately 1512 was that faith without the practice of good works was consistent with the idea that, since no human could reach the standard of God, no believer could ever feel secure about their salvation, while God offers his grace, regardless of whether someone deserves it.

In October 1517, Luther, upon hearing of the sale of indulgences in Wittenberg, drafted a letter to Archbishop Albrecht, and attached to the letter his Ninety-five Theses against indulgences and his Treatise on Indulgences, setting in motion a reform movement against the almighty Catholic Church. Because of the availability of printing at the time, Luther's ideas spread across Germany relatively quickly. Luther subsequently continued his efforts to criticize the Church, while the Church, due to political relationships with German nobility, was unable to organize itself quickly enough to respond to Luther's allegations. In 1529, at the Diet of Speyer, an assembly of both Catholic and Lutheran nobility, those who considered themselves Lutherans came into opposition about the need to reform the Church. They unified around all aspects of the Diet they felt contrasted with the Word of God, and appealed to the emperor and other leaders; this protest against the emperor and the influence of the Catholic nobility and the pre-Lutheran Church had found a new name: Protestantism.

By the early 17th century, Protestantism was widely spread throughout Germany and other parts of Europe. By that time, it had even spawned a break-away movement called Calvinism, giving rise to Reformed Protestantism. Religious claims to feudal authority were causing tension among the various states within Germany and the Holy Roman Empire. Ferdinand of Styria of the Habsburgs came to the throne of Bohemia in 1617. Because Ferdinand was Catholic and Calvinists were the majority in Bohemia, there was quickly a struggle for control of the region. By 1619, Ferdinand had ascended to the throne of the Holy Roman Empire (as Emperor Ferdinand II), and was rejected by the Bohemian Calvinists. Ferdinand received support from the papacy and the Spanish and Polish kings (both Catholic), and allied with Maximilian I, duke of Bavaria and leader of the German Catholic League. At the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, Catholic forces defeated the Bohemians, and Ferdinand reclaimed authority over Bohemia.

In 1629, after Ferdinand defeated the Danish King Christian IV who was fighting on behalf of German protestants, he issued what is known as the Edict of Restitution. This edict outlawed Calvinism, restored these territories to the Catholic Church, and restricted the right of appeal to the imperial diet by Protestant princes. Because the German Protestant princes were alienated by this edict, and they were concerned about the Empire's alliance with Spain, it was Lutheran King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden who invaded Germany with the support of the King of France, Louis XIII. One of Ferdinand's key allies betrayed Germany, and Adolphus' army was successful, forcing Germany to enter into the Treaty of Prague in 1635, essentially revoking the Edict of Restitution.

Because Louis XIII was afraid that France could be attacked by the Habsburg Empire from the south (Spain), the north (Netherlands), and the east (Germany), he declared war on Spain just before the Treaty of Prague was signed. Spain, in return, invaded France and Sweden, while German armies (made up of unified Catholics and Protestants against a common enemy), invaded France. As the war raged on, France was unable to repel its enemies. By 1643, however, both Ferdinand and Louis XIII were deceased, and Ferdinand III and Louis XIV sought a peaceful resolution to this conflict. By 1648, a peace agreement called the Peace of Westphalia was finally reached, which crafted Germany into a loose alliance of states under a single diet (assembly of the nobles and clergy) and a single military. This agreement also legalized Calvinism, giving it equal status to Catholicism and Lutheranism. The conflict that had lasted from 1618-1648 is known as the Thirty Years War. It is the first time in European history that national history and national defense asserted itself over religious-based conflict, and a new constitutional framework was put in place which ensured that Germany would remain decentralized for another two centuries.

During the Thirty Years War, another nation emerged as a leading military and imperial power, which would later come into conflict with the Habsburgs of Austria, the Kingdom of Prussia. Prussia became an officially recognized kingdom in northern Germany in 1701. In 1740, Prussia, in alliance with France, challenged the law that Maria Theresa of Austria could succeed to the throne of Austria, thus challenging the power of the Habsburgs. In the conflict, Austria was supported by Great Britain and the Dutch, along with the Kingdoms of Sardinia and Saxony. After an 8 year conflict called the War of Austrian Succession concluded with the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (signed at Aachen, in modern-day Germany), Prussia prevailed against the seemingly more powerful Austrian alliance.

During the War of Austrian Succession, Austria lost a key part of its territory to Prussia, a region in modern-day Poland called Silesia. In a conflict known as both the Third Silesian War and the Seven Years War (1756-1763), Austria under Maria Theresa sought to recover Silesia from Frederick II of Prussia. Because of the struggle for colonial power in the Americas and in India, the British and French fought in those areas as well. By 1763, the Treaty of Hubertusburg ended the European conflict, while the Treaty of Paris ended the American conflict (known as the French and Indian War), and Prussia was able to retain Silesia.

After Prussia annexed part of Poland, just before the end of the 18th century, it was Napoleon after the turn of the century that posed a threat to both it and Austria. Although Prussia was briefly reduced to its size at founding after its defeat by Napoleon, its army was victorious over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815, bringing an end to Napoleonic rule over much of Europe. Because Prussia had been able to restore its lost territories and gain parts of western Germany in the process, it was able to lead in the process of unifying Germany. Under the leadership of Otto von Bismarck in the second half of the 19th century, Prussia was able to assert its dominance over Austria and France and gain control of German territory. After Napoleon III's defeat ended the Franco-Prussian War in 1871, the German Empire was officially recognized by France, and Prussian monarch King William I became its king.

Kaiser Wilhelm II, or King William II, son of Frederick William II (son of William I), rose to the throne in 1888, and, because of indelicate diplomatic relations with Russia, Britain and France, and an internal power struggle with Bismarck forcing him from office, led Germany directly into conflict. By the time Austro-Hungarian Archduke Francis Ferdinand was assassinated by a Serbian nationalist in June 1914, William aggressively sought the punishment of Serbia by Austria-Hungary, eventually embroiling all of Europe into the conflict known as World War I. Ironically, in 1918, Wilhelm II was forced to abdicate power, the Free State of Prussia was formed, and the German Empire was held solely responsible for the war in the same location where it was originally recognized as a nation years earlier, the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.

The national assembly that convened at Weimar in 1919 created a liberal democracy that was doomed just after it began. The social and political climate in Germany, as a result of a severe military defeat, and an imposed and restrictive peace, rapidly deteriorated from one of moderation and democracy to one subject to attack by extremists from either side. Taking inspiration from the Russian Revolution of 1917, German workers and soldiers, while not quite electing communists, began electing councils which would sieze military and civil power in a number of cities. Communists and anarchists took over Munich in 1918, leading to military conflict there. Because Germany had to pay war reparations and had lost much of its international economic relationships, it severely devalued the Deutschemark by printing more money, leading to an economic crisis.

As the Weimar constitutional government remained in power, it was supported by the SPD (German Social Democrats), the German Democratic Party (DDP), and the Catholic Center Party. Gustav Stresemann of the German People's Party, served as foreign minister in all of Weimar's cabinets until his death in 1929. He, much to the consternation of the Nazi and communist parties in Germany, sought to fulfill the obligations of the Versailles Treaty, and by 1926 Germany was admitted to the League of Nations.

By 1929, the world was in the midst of a full blown economic depression, and, like the electorate has a propensity to do in such crises, it became very dissatisfied with its government. A center-right coalition was assembled under Heinrich Brüning, who unfortunately was unable to slow the worsening impact of the depression. During the 1930 elections, it became clear that extremists were gaining ground. The Nazis, who before the depression had 12 seats in the Reichstag (German Parliament), saw this figure rise to 107. In 1932 Adolf Hitler ran for president but was defeated by the man who would eventually appoint him chancellor, Paul von Hindenburg.

By January 1933, after subsequent elections, Hindenburg appointed Hitler chancellor, as the Nazi party won 37% and 33% of the Reichstag in the 1932 and 1933 elections respectively. Just after the Reichstag building fire in February 1933, Hitler pushed for the Reichstag to grant him full dictatorial powers. Two key provisions to the constitution drafted at Weimar 14 years earlier were that the office of the president could dissolve the Reichstag and had, under article 48, the ability to issue emergency decrees. As a result of Hitler assuming dictatorial control of the government, democracy quickly broke down. Hitler was able to ban political parties, control the press, and incarcerate political opponents in concentration camps. In August 1934, President Hindenburg died, allowing Hitler to combine the presidency and chancellorship to became Führer ('leader' or 'guide'). This demarcated the end of the German republic, and would later propel the most powerful nations in the world into military conflict.

"Democracy and majority rule are stupid. The masses are ignorant sheep that need leading by a brilliant statesman. This divinely appointed leader is Adolf Hitler, who will rule the world with a few chosen elite. The Third Reich, or new German Empire, will last a thousand years. It will be a Nazi totalitarian state with total control of government and the lives of all citizens."

—Adolf Hitler, Mein Kampf

As the 1930s wore on, Hitler and the Nazis slowly started to undermine and infiltrate a variety of German governmental and non-governmental institutions - they installed Nazi governors to oversee every state in Germany, Hitler's government forbade strikes by labor unions in favor of the creation of the German Labor Front under Nazi rule, and Hitler installed Joseph Goebbels to infiltrate education, art, theater, newspapers, and literature in order to use them to spread Nazi ideals.

Hitler, because of his desire for total control of the entire state of Germany and all its people, sought out any dissidents through a system of surveillance and terror. This system was mostly implemented through the German police, called the Gestapo and the SS (Schutzstaffel). Members of the SS eventually became Hitler's bodyguards and they considered themselves part of a new ruling elite, swearing total obedience to him while persecuting opponents of the regime. Any who were arrested were interrogated and sent to a concentration camp for a few months or years, serving as a warning to other discontented individuals. In February 1933 the first of the concentration camps was set up to house political opponents of Nazi Germany (Communists, Socialists, Jews, priests and ministers, defeatists, speculators, and intellectuals) ultimately reaching some 300 camps.

In April 1933, the systematic persecution of Jews by Nazi Germany was underway. By taking over the bureaucracy, the Nazis were able to dismiss Jewish judges and civil servants, legally, the Reich was using what was known as the "Aryan paragraph" (bylaws of organizations intended to exclude Jews) against doctors, dentists, chemists, lawyers, solicitors, artists, and journalists. Jews were barred from tax and social benefits, military service, clubs and associations, sitting on park benches, and using public baths.

By way of the Nuremberg Laws and the Nationality Acts of September 1935 Jews were legally defined as anyone with a single Jewish grandparent. They were deprived of citizenship and designated as "members but not citizens of the state," meaning they were unable to participate in civil service, the legal profession, the Labor Front, and all official organizations. Mixed marriages between Jews and non-Jewish Germans or sexual relations between them were prohibited by law.

In fall 1938, after the murder of a German embassy secretary in Paris by a young Jew, the Nazis systematically attacked and burned about 1,000 Jewish synagogues in what came to be known as the "Night of Broken Glass" (Reichskristallnacht). Jews were barred from attending theaters, concerts, movies, or other public performances and were forced to sell their property and businesses at ridiculously low prices. In order to more easily identify them, they had to assume biblical names such as Israel and Sarah on their identity papers and were forced to wear large yellow stars. The Aryan-only desires of Nazi Germany now seemed to assume a sense of dark and heavy permanence over Germany.

Hitler's other mandate was the recovery of the power of the German Empire over Europe and, in this light, it was necessary to repudiate the draconian limitations imposed by the Treaty of Versailles. By reintroducing military conscription and reconstructing the German air force in the 1930s, Hitler accomplished just that. Hitler was able to place troops in the Rhineland and support the dictator General Franco in the Spanish civil war in 1936. By October 1936, Hitler and Mussolini formed the Rome-Berlin Axis, eventually leading to the wartime affiliation of the two nations. By 1938, German troops marched into Austria, and the country was annexed to Germany. The situation in Europe was starting to grow more and more tense.

By September, Great Britain and France allowed Hitler to occupy the Sudetenland in Czechoslovakia with no objection. Because Hitler sought additional territory, he continued to take more Czech territory in the name of protection of a persecuted German minority by a brutal Czech majority. As a reaction to Hitler's act of aggression, Great Britain and France jointly agreed to guarantee protection for Poland. On September 1, 1939, Hitler blitzed Poland and Great Britain and France had no choice but to declare war on Germany.

After a conflict that would transform the history of the 20th century in the creation of new political alignments along with new foes, and the use of nuclear technology in warfare for the first and only time, the Germans were defeated by the Allies and the Red Army in 1945. In February, the Red Army advanced on Hungary and in April on Berlin, while US troops took Leipzig and Munich also in April, causing the Germans to officially surrender on May 7 at Rheims, France. The next day, German commanders surrendered to the Red Army in Berlin.

At the Yalta Conference in February 1945, the leaders Winston Churchill of Great Britain, Franklin D. Roosevelt of the United States, and Joseph Stalin of the Soviet Union agreed that Germany would be divided into four zones of occupation following its military defeat. The three countries and the French would each control a zone, while Berlin, although it lay in the Soviet zone, would be divided into four sectors as well. Germany, because it was now at the interface between West and East, was now the primary battleground in an ideological, rather than military conflict known as the "Cold War". Because the British, French and United States were capitalist nations, those three regions came together to form th Federal Republic of Germany, a parliamentary democracy; the Soviet zone, due to its communist orientation, became the German Democratic Republic, with a communist-dominated government.

By 1948, it became clear that the Soviets sought reparations from eastern Germany, as it began to remove everything from foodstuffs to factories from the area. The western Allied powers, in addition to Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg wanted the western German zone to be eligible for Marshall Plan funds from the United States. This desire brought the three separate western zones into economic and political alignment, while also introducing a common currency called the deutschmark by May 1948. Germany, which had been the scourge of the world since the turn of the 20th century, was now partitioned and allied with all of its former enemies.

Soon after the creation of the western-oriented Federal Republic of Germany, the nation experienced what is referred to as the German Economic Miracle; foreign trade tripled between 1954 and 1964, while unemployment dropped to less than 1 percent by 1961. In 1957 Germany joined France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, and Italy in the European Economic Community (EEC). The EEC created a common market, allowing for the free movement of goods and people, and facilitated stronger economic growth in a collective sense, while eliminating taxes and tariffs in commerce between its members.

East Germany's economy and political system resembled the Soviet Union's system of centralized economic planning, reduced private ownership of property, and the collective ownership or redistribution of farmlands. The Soviets, in imposing their own system upon East Germany, created a great deal of tension with their new nation. This situation was only made more difficult because of the Soviets deconstruction of the eastern zone immediately after the war; their military's brutal treatment of German civilians; and the economic hardships created by the transition to state-centralized economic planning. By 1952 more than 700,000 East Germans had fled to the West.

By 1961, 3 million East Germans had fled into Western Germany since the late 1940s. Nikita Khrushchev, Soviet Prime Minister, sought to stop the flow of individuals to the west, under the auspices of protecting East Germans from the infiltration of Western spies and imperialists as well as the influences of Western media. To this end, starting on August 13, 1961, the Soviets began the construction of a wall dividing the city of Berlin and stretching 100 miles, and restricting access and passage via military checkpoints. The wall separated subway and train stations, families, religious congregations, and friends, dividing them for 28 years and 4 months, until it was brought down on November 9, 1989.

In January 1989, Erich Honecker, East German head of state and general secretary of the communist Party stated that the Berlin Wall would continue standing for 50 or 100 years. In contrast, a Solidarity movement was taking place in Poland which would free it from communist rule while Hungary opened its Austrian borders, allowing East Germans to escape to the West. On October 7, 1989 a festival was held marking the 40th anniversary of the East German republic, however this celebration was accompanied by demonstrations insisting on wider freedoms for the east German people. In addition, east Germans, because of radio and television, were able to monitor events taking place in West Germany, and the seemingly insuperable barrier between the nations grew weaker and weaker as a result. By November 7, after admonishment to change by then Soviet Premier Mikhail Gorbachev, the East German government resigned and by November 9 the East German leadership suddenly opened the borders to West Germany, allowing East Germans into the west for the first time in their lives.

Although the subsequent years and months were the rocky beginnings of the reunification of Germany, there were signs from both the east Germans and the Soviets that there would be minimal interference with the process on their part. Gorbachev granted Germany the right to unify, while East Germany had free elections for the first time in March 1990, with the head of state pushing the unification forward according to the terms of the West German constitution. By June, Checkpoint Charlie, the border crossing, was destroyed. In July 1990, each agreed to use the West German mark as their currency, and it was agreed by leaders from both sides that on October 3, 1990, both nations would join to form Germany.

In the first post-unification election, in December 1990, Helmut Kohl's Christian Democratic Union (CDU) won the most seats in four of the five former eastern states, while the Social Democratic Party (SPD) had been victorious in the remaining state, Brandenburg. The CDU continued to control the government until 1998 brought the SPD, under Gerhard Schröder, into power. However, its inability to gain a clear majority allowed for entry by the Red-Green coalition, an alliance between the SPD and the Green Party. The CDU regained control over the government in the elections of May 2005, resulting in the election of Germany's first female chancellor, Angela Merkel, who is also the first chancellor of reunified Germany to have come from the former eastern lands.

Germany today is unrecognizable to a man or woman who sat on the eastern side of the Berlin Wall before reunification. Because, after World War II, there was significant economic growth and a stable political environment in the west, as alliances were strengthened with the world's most powerful nation, this was able to serve as a way to absorb east Germany into an already thriving nation. It became clear that removing the wall that separated them was not only a literal act, but a figurative act as well, reuniting two nations who are strengthened as much by a unity of economy and politics as by a unity of ideology intended on doing what is best for all German people. Germany, in 2009, is the largest economy in the EU, and therefore is one of the world's most prosperous nations, clearly stronger, safer and more stable with both halves united under one flag and one government.






April 21, 2009

Freedom, Equality, Unity + Red, White & Blue = Modern Day France!

By Red Sox Steve

In approximately 600 BCE ("Before Common Era"), Greeks from the maritime city of Phocaea (pronounced "foh-see-uh") on the Aegean sea in present day Turkey established a seaport farther to the western edge of their empire, as a result of their battles with the Carthaginians in this territory. This seaport town was located east of the Rhône River's mouth; at the time, the name of the city was Massilia, but today it is known as Marseille.

The Greeks continued moving into what we know as mainland France, primarily to acquire raw materials like silver and iron through trading with Celtic tribes in the region. Archaeologists have discovered finished bronze items (a luxury good produced by the Greeks and used to trade with the Celts) 100 miles from Paris. For hundreds of years after its founding and establishment as part of the Greek trading network, Massalia's main enemy was Carthage. Massalia found an ally against the Carthaginians in Rome during the Second Punic War (218–201 BCE). Subsequent to this, in 125 BCE, Rome was able to occupy Massalia, because it faced threats from local tribes.

Rome extended its influence further into the Gallic region and created a bureaucratic center at Lugdunum (present-day Lyon). During the initial period of Roman occupation, the Romans created two main regions of Gaul, Gallia Cisalpina and Gallia Transalpina, and in 49 BCE, Roman citizenship was extended to the Gauls. By the fifth century, the Roman empire and many of its satellite states including Gaul were suffering from widespread decline. Although Germanic tribes were settling in Gaul and allying with the Romans, invaders quickly followed, dividing the region into a number of kingdoms. There was, however, one Germanic tribe who conquered much of the Gallic region, causing the Gauls to eventually adopt their conquerors name for themselves: the Franks.

In the latter part of the 5th century, the Frankish tribes started to divide between those who fought the Romans and those who fought Germanic invaders such as the Visigoths and Vandals. An emergent Frankish military commander named Childeric I ultimately came to power in service of Rome, fighting against the Visigoths in 463 and 469. Because, however, Childeric's commander, a Roman general named Aegidius, severed ties with Roman authorities in 461, it was the military under Aegidius' command that was to maintain authority in Gaul.

By 482, Childeric's son Clovis had succeeded his father and in the aftermath of further battle against Celtic and Germanic tribes, was able to control most of northern Gaul. In 507 Clovis established his court at Paris. His kingdom eventually included most of Gaul from the North Sea to the Pyrenees and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Main River and was known as the Merovingian dynasty.

Because Clovis had 4 sons, he divided the territory between them, giving way to shifting boundaries and warfare among the kingdoms. By 687, the king of Austrasia (the eastern kingdom), Pepin III, defeated Neustria and Burgundy, the western and southern kingdoms respectively. Pepin III was therefore able to unite the Frankish kingdom for the first time in over 70 years, under a new ruling era which came to be known as the Carolingian dynasty.

During the reign of Charlemagne (768-814), son of Pépin III, the Frankish kingdom was extended into Spain to repel the Moors and Italy to control rule of the Lombards. From 772 until 804 Charlemagne fought the Saxons of Saxony, who were deemed pagans by the church. Charlemagne also defeated the Avars, who controlled much of central Europe at the time. To protect his new empire, Charlemagne posted the Frankish army at its borders. The empire remained united under Charlemagne's son, Louis, but on his death it was divided among his three sons under the Treaty of Verdun in 843 into regions that now make up Germany, France, the Netherlands, and Italy.

In 978, Lothair (941–986), the Carolingian king, invaded territory lost to the Germans decades earlier, despite the fact that Lothair was a vassal of the German King and Holy Roman Emperor, Otto II. Otto thought of this as a rebellious act, and subsequently invaded France. Only two years after Lothair's initial invasion, in 980, he retracted his claim to the lost land, Lotharingia. The peace was temporary as Otto II died 3 years later. His son, Otto III, only three years old at the time, assumed the throne. Because Otto III's right to the throne was disputed, a civil war was triggered, and Lothair again invaded Lotharingia, only to die less than a year after the invasion in 985. Louis V assumed power in France, but the invasion of Lotharingia had failed; Louis V died only two years later in 987 in a hunting accident, ending the Carolingian dynasty.

Hugh Capet, cousin of Otto II, had previously aligned against Lothair and was able to ascend to the throne of France in 987, marking the start of the Capetian dynasty. The power of the Capetian dynasty, in its early stages, was diffused into the hands of what are known as the three "orders": the nobles, the bourgeosie, and the clergy, a system that would hold until the French Revolution of 1789. In addition, because of royal intermarriage, the French throne was threatened by a claim on it by the English monarchy. Because of the power the church held at this time, French pope Urban II began to preach in favor of a religiously oriented conflict that could force Islam back to the east: the Crusades.

Under King Philip II Augustus (1180–1223), royal authority and French territory expanded, especially by leading a crusade against Catharism (a Christian sect at odds with the Catholic church) in the south. This battle was continued by his son, Louis VIII, expanding the power of the monarchy to the Mediterranean. The next descendant to the French throne was Louis IX (also known as Saint Louis), who expanded royal power and ultimately participated in the Crusades. Under successive later kings, governmental power increased and the monarch came to be not merely a ruler, but a living representation of the law. By the early 14th century, Philip IV had undertaken another expansion of French territory, and sought increased revenues to maintain his power. As a result of this, he began a persecution against both French Jews and a powerful French military order known as the Templars. As the monarchy came to face more and more challenges to its authority, each of Philip's sons took turns holding the crown: Louis X, Philip V, and Charles IV. When each passed away, there was no legal heir to take over the throne; the Capetian dynasty ended in 1328 when the monarchy was passed to Philip VI of Valois.

During the 14th century in Europe, as merchants and soldiers travelled between western Europe and Asia, through the Crimean mountains, they came in contact with a skin-borne bacterium called "Yersinia pestis", also known as the bubonic plague. During the middle part of this century, it is estimated that about 50% of the population of Europe was wiped out as a result of contact with this virus. In addition, in France, agricultural production slowed down, producing numerous famines, leading to a deep economic crisis. It is at this time that England and France came into conflict over succession rights to the French throne, a conflict known as "The Hundred Years' War".

The Hundred Years War lasted from 1337-1453, with periods of intermittent peace between battle. By about 1415, the English were able to subdue the French significantly, forcing them into signing the Treaty of Troyes (ca 1415), which was a formal recognition of King Henry V of England as heir to the French throne. Just prior to this, however, a French peasant girl was born in the French village of Domrémy, who would later impact the outcome of the war: Joan of Arc (Joan d'Arc). French King Charles VII sent her to the battle at Orléans as part of a relief mission. St. Joan (she was canonized in 1920) gained much adulation due to the fact that she was able to end the siege in nine days. Later victories led to Charles VII's coronation at Reims, settling the dispute over monarchical succession. The Treaty of Étaples, signed in 1492 under the rule of Charles VIII, settled any remaining differences between France and England.

Before the 15th century was to come to an end, Charles VIII, at the request of Pope Innocent VIII and Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, sent 25,000 men into Italy, reaching Naples in February 1495. In the process, the French army laid claim to Florence (ruled by the Medici family at the time) before Charles VIII was ultimately crowned King of Naples. The following monarch, Louis XII, was able to take the throne of Milan as a result of its occupation by Italian mercenaries in service to France. The destabilization of the Italian monarchy and the conflicts in Italy led to a diffusion of artistic, philosophical and academic individuals out of Italy and into France.

We've got to, however, pass most of the French Renaissance period, bringing ourselves forward to 1651, the year that Louis XIV, son of Louis XIII, took power in France. When Louis XIV began his rule, he expanded his bureaucracy by opening up opportunities in government to the middle classes, thus ensuring that those who served him would remain under the influence of his power. He also continued a construction project begun by his father on a royal lodge in Versailles, outside of Paris. When Louis XIV took power, he continued the work based on architectural plan, and in 1682, officially moved the seat of his power from Paris to Versailles, a magnificent palace now visited by over 2 million tourists every year.

Foreign policy was much more complex, and certainly much more bellicose. Louis XIV declared war on Spain, as a result of his claim to land in the Spanish Netherlands. He also caused the French Huguenots (French believers in a form of Protestantism) to flee France after revoking a treaty which had previously granted them religious freedoms in 1685. William of Orange, who replaced King James II in England, brought it into an alliance called the "League of Augsburg" with the Dutch Netherlands, the Holy Roman Empire, and other European powers. With England now positioned to put a stop to Louis XIV's European ambitions, the War of the Grand Alliance began in 1688, ending in 1697. Louis XIV also sought to have his grandson, Philip, replace the deceased Charles II in Spain, however this was opposed by the other European powers, culminating in the "War of the Spanish Succession" in 1701. The war continued until 1713, with France winning and Philip taking the throne of Spain. In September 1715, Louis XIV died.

Louis XV, because he was only 5 when his great grandfather died, was unable to take power until 1723. Between monarchs, Philippe, duke of Orléans, ruled as regent, overseeing a period of significant destabilization of France. Previously suppressed groups such as the French "parlement" (law courts) reasserted themselves, challenging the monarch's absolute authority. By the time Louis XV came to power (Cardinal Fleury administered the government from 1726 until 1743 on behalf of his king), he had to deal with vocal opposition and found the kingdom's fiscal affairs in disarray. Furthermore, because of diplomatic struggles, France found itself on the losing end of two wars (War of the Austrian Succession and Seven Years' War) resulting in a loss of much of its colonial holdings. Financially, things continued to grow worse. Against this backdrop, Louis XV chose to harden his belief in absolutism, fully demarcating the role of the monarchy as one that would refuse to adapt to changing times.

By 1774, the year Louis XVI, grandson of Louis XV came to power, France and the monarchy were on divergent paths. The new king immediately faced a deteriorating economic situation, therefore, his appointment as comptroller general of finance was critical. For this position, he chose a man named Anne-Robert Turgot. Turgot, the son of a merchant, had originally been on course to join the clergy. However, as a result of his work at the Sorbonne, pursued his interest in finance and economics. He is best known for publishing a book entitled "Reflections on the Formation and Distribution of Wealth" in 1766. Under Louis XVI's rule, Turgot sought to implement three main reforms: 1) establishing free trade in grain within the kingdom (1774), 2) establishing the freedom to work in various industries by abolishing the guilds (1776), and 3) abolishing the royal corvée (1776), the obligation of peasants to work for free on the repair and construction of roads. Each of the three met with fierce opposition from interested parties. His edict on the free trade of grain brought the ire of speculators, and was soon revoked. His edicts on abolition of guilds and replacement of the obligation for peasants to provide free labor by a tax on all property, was opposed by all the privileged groups, courtiers, factory owners, and financiers. The Parlement appealed to Louis XVI, who subsequently asked Turgot for his resignation (1776). Turgot wrote prophetically to the king a few days before he gave up office: "Never forget, Sire, that it was weakness that put the head of Charles I (King of England, Scotland and Ireland executed in 1649) on the block."

Turgot was replaced by a Swiss banker, Jacques Necker. Not only was Necker was forced to deal with all the problems Turgot had identified, he had one additional financial obligation of the French government to consider: the war between the British and the separatists taking place across the Atlantic. Although Necker sought similar goals to Turgot, he was also roundly criticized; Necker sought to gain public confidence by publishing a complete accounting of royal and governmental finances. Unfortunately, this caused a scandal because it revealed the expenses of the court, which had remained a secret up to that point. The naive yet capricious wife of Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, had Necker recalled in 1781. It quickly became apparent that a reformist approach was not desired by the monarchy.

Although subsequent finance ministers proposed similar strategies to reform, it was the authority of the monarchy to impose taxes without the consent of parlement that came into question. Etienne-Charles de Loménie de Brienne (finance minister at the time) arrested or exiled the principal instigators, the Parlement resisted these actions and proclaimed (by a May 3, 1788 decree) the right of the Estates General (nobles, clergy, bourgeoisie on behalf of commoners) to grant financial subsidies freely. The king responded by rescinding the right of appeal from the Parlement. Opposition quickly organized nationwide and uprisings broke out. In Dauphiné in July 1788, deputies of all three orders encouraged every province to stop paying taxes until the Estates General could convene.

What happened next formed the foundation of representative government for two centuries, and dissolved the concentrated power that existed in a single man in every nation that has adopted a truly representative democracy since then. The Estates General was to be convened on May 1, 1789. Public opinion expected from the meeting a change in government. The "nationaux" or "patriotes," leading the movement sought to have the Estates General become a national assembly. Historically, a united First and Second Estate could outvote the Third Estate (commoners), despite the fact that the Third Estate represented 97% of France's population. Thus, although the Third Estate gave its assent to a convening of the Estates General, it saw this as an opportunity to gain more power as well. Despite the opposition of Parlement in defense of privilege over freedom, Necker (since reinstated by Louis XVI) persuaded his king to accept a doubling of the size of the Third Estate.

By June, the Third Estate, realizing it was in a disadvantageous position, proposed a meeting of all delegates (including the First and Second Estates) to establish a constitution. Louis XVI, upon hearing about the meeting, declared the assembly's decisions null and void and ordered the Estates to meet in three distinct chambers. The First and Second Estates followed the king's instruction while the Third Estate resisted and stayed in the meeting. The Third Estate challenged the monarchy to use force to break up the meeting, however Louis XVI decided against doing so, and gave in. Days later, he redacted his orders and instructed all the delegates to join the Third Estate. On July 9, the assembly took the name of the Constituent Assembly, and absolute rule in France was abolished.

Starting on July 14th with a citizens' invasion of the Bastille, a state run prison, up through October, tension among the populace was very high. Because of the pressure applied by outraged French citizens, the king agreed to a new flag (with red, white and blue stripes), and assembly deputies (via the newly named National Assembly) voted equal rights for all, free employment for all, equal justice, abolition of the privileges of the guilds, the provinces, the towns, and of individuals, and the abolition of feudal dues and services, such as the corvée and other remnants of feudalism. The deputies also voted in the Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen as well as a number of other constitutional articles.

On the night of June 20, 1791, dressing as a valet, Louis XVI was determined to flee France, meeting a French army at the border, and intending on using military force to intimidate the revolutionaries. The king was identified during his trip and arrested, thus completely destroying the people's confidence in their monarch. Moderate deputies brought Louis XVI back to power as a constitutional monarch months later, whereby he swore to accept and uphold the constitution. The Constituent Assembly stepped down and was replaced by the Legislative Assembly as of September 30, 1791.

As a result of the constitution of 1791, discussed above, administrative power became decentralized, tax laws became more egalitarian, the organization of the Catholic Church was modified, and political rights were now accorded to non-Catholics, Protestant and Jewish. Within the family, the right under which only the eldest son inherited from his parents was abolished and public instruction available to all citizens would be established.

The revolutionary period did not go unnoticed in Europe - monarchs all over understood this revolution to be a threat to their power as well. In April 1792, the Legislative Assembly voted for war against the king of Hungary and Bohemia, Francis II. By July, France had learned it was to be invaded by the Prussian army, which, by manifesto in August, declared itself in favor of Louis XVI and against the Legislative Assembly.

Later that month, after a bloody civil uprising, Louis XVI was suspended and imprisoned by vote of the assembly. The power structure was then changed to a larger body (Convention), subordinate to the power confided to an Executive Council. Although there was tension between the right-leaning Girondons and left-leaning Montagnards within the Convention, the body voted to sentence Louis XVI to death, and he was executed in January 1793.

From 1793 through 1794 there was serious tension and distrust among opposing members of the Convention. As much as France was suffering from within, it also had to deal problems from without. Royalists in the towns and cities surrounding France gave aid to invading coalition armies, surrendering the port and fleet at Toulon to the English. Among the Convention's differing ideologies, a powerful government was formed and given dictatorial abilities which empowered various committees to investigate and adjudicate citizens and hold nearly absolute civil and military power. Mass beheadings and drownings were carried out against anyone in violation of the Law of Suspects (enemies of liberty).

By 1795, after numerous intra-Conventional struggles had metastasized and those that fomented them were arrested and executed, the moderates began to return to power. However, there was still a royalist element that, in October 1795, sought to attack the Convention. This uprising was defeated by a 26 year old Corsican general, Napoleon Bonaparte.

When the Directory (as it was called) government had taken power in 1795, France was again embroiled in foreign conflict, however had still been unable to fully resolve the economic conflict. The separation of wealth, and mishandling of finances of this government produced forceful opposition. In the elections of 1797 the royalists came to power in direct opposition against the Director government; because there was no constitutional provision for how power should be administered in this relationship, the Directors, with the assistance of a Bonaparte lieutenant, used a coup d'etat to get back into power.

Within the Directory government a group wanted to revise the constitution, but to achieve this, a coup d'état was again needed to place a popular leader in power. This would be General Napoléon Bonaparte, who recently returned from Egypt as a conquering hero. The coup was successful when, with military assistance, Directory deputies were chased from a meeting place at Saint-Cloud in November 1799. Napoleon appointed himself "First Consul For Life", and the new constitution mentioned nothing of "liberty, equality, and fraternity".

By the early 1800s, under the rule of Bonaparte, French territory on the European continent was expanded by Napoleonic defeats in Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium and Austria. The French raised money by selling its major land holding in America for 3 cents an acre. The Louisiana Purchase doubled the size of the United States in 1803. Napoleon became emperor of the French Empire as proclaimed on May 28, 1804. On May 26, 1805, in Milan Cathedral, he was crowned king of Italy.

Napoleon was unable to extend the French Empire beyond the English Channel, however he was able to move into Vienna and then defeat the Austrian and Russian armies in the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805. Napoleon's grand plan, in allying with the Russians and conquering the Portuguese and the Spanish, was to surround the British, effectively isolating it from contact with supplies and resources, and hoping it would destroy itself from within. The British however, backed the Spanish and the Portuguese, and, in the meantime, there was no commitment made to Napoleon by the Russians. In order to threaten Alexander I of Russia, Napoleon moved part of his army into Poland in 1812. Napoleon was intent on defeating Alexander's army and moved towards Russia with 650,000 men. As the Russians retreated, the French were drawn into Russia, and by mid-September Napoleon entered Moscow; because they were harrassed by Russian soldiers and Cossacks during their withdrawal, by the time the French army left Russia, there were about 10,000 men remaining.

The world was literally closing in on Napoleon. His army was seriously demoralized by the losses suffered in Russia, Austria soundly defeated France at the Battle of Leipzig in 1813, and when Napoleon returned to France, he returned to a nation in economic, social and political turmoil. Because he was also facing pressure from the Spanish army who declared their war to be solely against Napoleon himself, he was forced to accept the Treaty of Fountainbleau and withdraw to the island of Elba with 400 men, recusing all his authority. Louis XVIII, brother of Louis XVI then became King of France.

Just a few years later, Napoleon returned to France, and Louis XVIII, eager to avoid a civil war, allowed Napoleon to return to his former seat of power. From there, he formed an army that defeated the Prussians in the Netherlands and also drove back the British. Napoleon and his soldiers continued to pester the British, leading them to a small Belgian town about 12 miles to the southeast of Brussels, called Waterloo. On Sunday June 18 1815 the French Empire was defeated by a coalition force made up primarily of Prussian and British soldiers, finally ending the First French Empire. This battle ended Napoleon's rule as emperor and his return from exile. He was exiled to the South Atlantic island of St. Helena, where he stayed until he died in 1821.

In 1830, a civil uprising established the constitutional July Monarchy, which lasted until 1848. The new regime, under King Louis-Philippe was truly parliamentary, with the commercial bourgeoisie replacing the nobility as the determinate class. The economic crisis of 1846–47 led to a political one, ushering in the Revolution of 1848 that provoked the fall of Louis-Philippe and the creation of a Second Republic by the provisional government. At this time, France also expanded into Algeria, sub-Saharan Africa, the Far East and the Pacific. The Second Republic ended in 1852 when Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte proclaimed the Second Empire. Louis-Napoléon was removed from power just after his defeat in the Franco-Prussian war (1871) bringing forth a new regime, known as the Third Republic.

During the first few years of the Third Republic, there were two candidates vying for the throne, Henri, comte de Chambord, head of the elder branch of the royal family, and Louis-Philippe, comte de Paris, head of the family's younger branch. Although a compromise was reached allowing Henri to take the throne with Louis-Philippe as his heir, Henri refused to acknowledge the red, white and blue flag of the French Revolution. In 1875 parliamentary acts finally laid the way for the Third Republic. The rule by monarchy versus rule by republic debate continued, however by 1877 it became clear the people desired a republic.

In 1905 the Third Republic introduced laws meant to separate church and state, prohibiting religious control of education. Economic development led to railroads and increased ease of travel, while improvements in education increased literacy. The Third Republic's most significant contribution to the well-being of France and the rest of the world was in its efforts to defeat an invading German army during WWI.

When Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austrian throne and his wife were assassinated in Sarajevo, Bosnia on June 28, 1914, the Austrians had all the incentive they needed to declare war on Bosnia a month later. Within weeks, the Germans supported the Austrians (each making up the "Central Powers") while the Russians, Belgians, British and French supported Bosnia (each making up the "Allies"). The German strategy was to avoid a war on two fronts, as it faces Russia to the east and France to the west. Their desire was to hold Russia back while simultaneously encircling Paris. In actuality, the western front of the war was 40 miles from Paris, stretching from the English Channel to the Swiss border. In the years that followed, losses sustained by both sides were considerable as territories and positions were gained and lost. By 1918, British and French resources were combined under French General Ferdinand Foch. Foch's strategy in battles in July and August, combined with US reinforcements, forced the Germans into a disadvantageous position of having to defend its own land against invasion. German General Erich Ludendorff managed to prevent the Allies from gaining much territory in Germany. On November 11, 1918, an armistice was signed by both sides, ending the war.

In the interwar period, conflicts abroad as well as a devastated and traumatized post-war environment caused a great deal of political turbulence. At first, in 1919, there was a nationalist zeal imbued in France as a result of the war, leading to conservative success in the 1919 elections. However, by the mid 1920s, aggressive foreign policy was pursued to such an extent seeking reparations from the Germans that a center-left party was put into power, the "Cartel des gauches". Although the October 1929 stock market crash perpetuated a worldwide depression, France still had a prosperous year in 1930. By 1932 the electorate gave the Left its greatest success since before the war as a result of the crisis. Internationally, in July 1932, Germany's inability to pay reparations and its right to rearm were both formally acknowledged.

In 1936, France had a socialist prime minister for the first time in Léon Blum. He ruled until he resigned in 1938, however he was able to pass legislation reducing the workweek to 40 hours, introducing paid vacations, and including women in the cabinet. In the years leading up to WWII, the French relied on the British for foreign policy support, especially with respect to the appeasment of Franco in Spain in 1936, and with respect to Hitler's invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1938. By late 1939, Britain and France had declared war on Germany.

Within a year, Germany was advancing on Belgium and Paris. On June 16, 1940, Premier Paul Reynaud was forced to resign handing power over France to Marshal Philippe Pétain. The next day, Pétain announced his intention to seek an armistice dividing France into four zones with the two most important being the Free Zone, with Vichy as its capital and the Occupied Zone, encompassing Paris and northern lands. While Pétain was installing headquarters at Vichy, it was WWI prisoner of war and former aide to Petain, General Charles de Gaulle that appealed to the French people from London to continue the struggle. Because the National Assembly gave full power to Petain, this ended the Third Republic and transferred political power to a severely autocratic regime, the État français with its slogan "Travail (labor), Famille (family), Patrie (country)".

As the war progressed, numerous French Jews were deported by the Germans, 650,000 French workers were sent to Germany to serve the German war effort and civil war nearly broke out between the French Resistance and the Milice, the Nazi-led Vichy police, even after the Normandy invasion (June 6, 1944). By August 1944, Paris had successfully risen against the occupying German army, while American troops moved up the Rhone valley. The Vichy power structure gave way to De Gaulle's French Committee of National Liberation, which was recognized by Allied powers as the provisional government of France.

After the liberation of Paris, De Gaulle was able to govern France with few restrictions for over a year. In a subsequent referendum, voters rejected a return to the Third Republic, while competing ideologies pressed to increase the power of different bodies of government. The Communist party favored a single-body legislature with nearly unilateral power, while the Mouvement républicain populaire (MRP) sought to increase the power of the executive branch. De Gaulle resigned from politics in 1946 because the Socialist party supported the Communists, and they proceeded to draft a constitution outlining what would become the Fourth Republic. This new constitution guaranteed gender equality, a right to work, and the right to education, health care, and social benefits.

As a result of the shifting relationship between France and Communist Russia, the left-wing of the French Parliament faced diminishing power while a party representing the center, known as the Third Force, gained the majority. It was this political party that was in power as France ushered in a new era of democratic reconstruction of the nation's economy, involving state intervention and assistance. The Third Force was unable to maintain its power, giving way to a right-of-center group made up of radicals and Republicans, and supported by the RPF. Although the RPF was originally a Gaullist movement, De Gaulle stepped down from politics in protest of their support of the right-of-center government.

As the 1950s progressed, France faced threats to its colonial holdings (with France, all comprising the "French Union"). There was tension in Tunisia, Morocco, Laos, and Vietnam where uprisings and military conflicts diminished France's influence as a colonial power. It was conflict in Algeria in the mid-1950s that nearly brought the French government to its knees. As a result of rebellious activities and terrorism, 400,000 French troops were sent to Algeria by French premier Guy Mollet in 1956, however this did not halt the rebellion. By 1958, as France was about to appoint a new premier, there were uprisings in Algiers in response to his foreign policy. In reality, the protests can also be attributed to right-wing groups representing the "colons" (French settlers in Algeria) because they were afraid they would get no support from Paris in attempting to maintain the stability of Algeria, under French rule. Because of the intractable conflict, neither the Algerians, the conspirators, or the French government were able to reach an agreement. It was soon concluded by politicians that de Gaulle was the only person who could save the republic in its current form. On June 1, 1958 the National Assembly approved him as premier, granting nearly limitless powers for six months; powers which De Gaulle used to create the Fifth Republic.

The Fifth Republic placed more authority in the executive than either the Third or Fourth Republics. The premier was named by the president, although he could be overthrown by a formal vote of censure in the National Assembly. The president had the ability to dissolve the assembly, call for new elections, and assume emergency powers in times of crisis, making the Élysée (official residence of the President of the French Republic, where his office is located) the center of power.

By the middle of the 1960s, Algeria had been granted full independence by the French government, France continued to maintain an antagonistic posture against Britain, and partly due to the nation's involvement in the European Economic Community, continued to prosper. De Gaulle, who was coming to the end of his presidential term, wanted a stronger position within NATO. Although he supported the alliance, he insisted on keeping part of the French Mediterranean Fleet out of NATO hands, and wanted NATO headquarters off of French soil. At this time, France started to develop a more extensive nuclear arsenal, exploding a test bomb for the first time in 1960, in the Sahara; De Gaulle continued with nuclear tests, and was unwilling to sign the international atomic Test Ban Treaty of 1963.

Ignoring much of the salient ideological differences between it and the communists, France sought closer relations with the USSR and Eastern Europe. France also sought to strengthen ties between it and West Germany, recognized China, and protested against US involvement in Vietnam.

In the latter half of the 1960s, there was constant turnover at the head of the government, premier Georges Pompidou (who had presided over France earlier this decade) gave way to De Gaulle, and in 1968, there were massive student and worker uprisings. Although De Gaulle initially sought reform to meet the demands of the protesters, he subsequently gained military support and retracted his promised reforms. This was met with widespread support by the right-wing and conservative groups. In April 1969, de Gaulle proposed a plan to restructure the government and decentralize the general administration; he was asking for a vote of confidence in the plan and in himself, stating that he would resign if a majority did not approve of his proposals. As a result, when less than 50% of voters approved of his plan, he resigned on April 27.

By the mid 1970s, after the election of Pompidou as president, France had begun negotiations in support of Britain's entrance into the ECM (European Common Market), and the National Assembly elections in 1973 brought to power a union of Socialists, Communists, and a faction of the Radical Party of the Left. The government's strength in the assembly was reduced, to the benefit of the Union of the Left.

The presidential election of May 10, 1981 brought Francois Mitterrand, previously a coalition leader in the National Assembly, into power. At the time, inflation and unemployment were skyrocketing. Mitterand sought to nationalize industries and the banking system, decentralize the government, and increase public expenditure. Mitterrand, with a Socialist majority in the National Assembly, raised the minimum wage and increased benefits, further economic nationalization, and abolish capital sentencing. With right-wing control of the assembly, he was forced to appoint Jacques Chirac as prime minister in the first example of "cohabitation." Mitterrand also sought to push the French integration into Europe. The Maastricht Treaty (February 1992) on the European Union increased the EU parliament's powers and sought common international and military policies as well as a common currency. It was approved in France by referendum in September of that year.

Jacques Chirac became French president in 1995. He had been a lifelong member of the conservative Gaullists since he first became part of Georges Pompidou's government in the 1960s. Although he sought domestic reforms which decreased his popularity, Chirac's involvement in international affairs has contributed to France's international appeal. He has worked to integrate France more closely into the EU, and to strengthen ties between France and Germany. Chirac also sought increased participation by France in NATO, and has created a pathway for Russia to join the alliance as a "special member". Certainly, his re-election in 2002 dovetailed with the wave of conservatism that swept across Europe, however Chirac refused to support military intervention by the US in the Middle East in 2003. Subsequent to this, Chirac has strengthened French ties with WWII adversaries, Algeria, and even the United States. In the waning years of his administration, his popularity was severely diminished as evidenced by France's refusal to ratify the EU constitution, and protests against a proposed employment law (which was subsequently struck) in 2006.

In May 2007, Nicolas Sarkozy of the conserative UMP party defeated the socialist candidate Segolene Royal in the French presidential election. More recently, Sarkozy's influence both at home and abroad has been tempered by the severity of the global economic downturn. He has taken a protectionist stance towards foreign investment in the auto parts industry in France, and fomented international tensions by aligning himself with his conservative German counterpart, Angela Merkel, against Britain and France at the recent G-20 meeting in London. Sarkozy is also seeking to improve the unemployment situation through support for business and industry, however the trade unions seek more direct support for incomes and employment by their government. Sarkozy was successful in returning France to full NATO membership, hopefully strengthening its influence over any proposed European defense initiative, and is building stronger ties between certain Middle Eastern and North African nations.

After looking over the copious amount of data I have provided here, it is easy to conclude that I have an enhanced understanding of France and the French people. My belief, however, is that after reviewing all that I have put forth here, I am only beginning to scratch the surface of my understanding of France's ever shifting role in the 21st century world we all wish to create.






April 16, 2009

Two Thousand Years of an Island: A History of The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland

By Red Sox Steve

Prior to his time as Roman emperor, Julius Caesar served as a governor of territories which bordered lands yet to be conquered by the Roman empire. This gave him the opportunity to extend Roman influence, and his own in the process. Under his rule, both the Gallic and Germanic tribes were conquered around 55 BC; he then led his armies farther north, across the ocean and onto a land occupied by people he feared were aiding the enemy Gauls: Britons. Although Caesar's initial attacks were unsuccessful, Rome eventually was able to create a military and political presence there, calling the land it occupied Britannia, which it maintained for over 400 years.

For the next 1,000 years (the "Middle Ages"), this part of the world was the site of conflict, feudalistic rule, and shifting alliances, in the constant pursuit of temporary power and elusive control. During the reign of King John, nobles at Runnymede in 1215 compelled the king to grant the Magna Carta which moved England toward a parliamentary system. 50 years later, in 1265, Simon de Montfort, earl of Leicester and leader of the barons in their opposition to Henry III, called the first Parliament, with representatives of the rural nobility and of the boroughs and towns. In the late 13th century, Edward I expanded the royal courts and reformed the legal system, diluting the power held by the throne. Different kingdoms continued to jockey for power over others, until a civil war broke out in 1455, which took 30 years to resolve. After the conflict (known as the Wars of the Roses) had died down, Henry Tudor (a/k/a Henry VII) emerged as the monarch who was to govern all of England. This era marked the beginning of what is known as the Tudor Dynasty in 1485, or the start of what other historians call Early Modern Britain and it is where our discussion continues.

In 1534, Parliament passed the Act of Supremacy which confirmed Henry VIII (descendant of Henry VII) as the head of church and state and declared the Catholic religion null and void. Henry wanted separation from the Catholic Church because he had failed to obtain papal approval for his divorce from Catherine of Aragon, the daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella. Meanwhile because of England's economic ties with the continent, Protestant ideas arrived soon after the German Martin Luther's declaration against the church in 1516. As a result, Henry's withdrawal of England from its relationship with Catholicism met with widespread approval.

After centuries of struggle, under Henry VIII much of governmental power became centralized in the monarchy. Parliament, however, in part made up of members of the nobility, continued to have some ability to control finances; Parliament alone had the right to enact new taxes, and the failure of previous monarchs to implement a financial system to fund wars gave Parliament a measure of control. In 1536, Parliament under Henry's pressure incorporated Wales into England. English law was imposed on Wales and English was made its official language. The two became known as England. Five years later, the English Parliament declared Henry VIII, “King of Ireland.”

After Henry's death and the death of his son and successor, Edward VI, Henry's daughter Mary, a Catholic, was aided by anti-Protestant sentiment in her bid for the Crown against Edward's chosen Protestant heir. Mary's repressive regime, during which hundreds of Protestants were burned at the stake, earned her the nickname Bloody Mary, and deepened the divide between Catholics and Protestants, part of which resulted from her father's establishment of the Church of England. Mary further strengthened her reestablishment of the Catholic Church in England by marrying Philip II of Spain, who was at the forefront of the Counter-Reformation, the goal of which was to eradicate Protestantism from Europe.

Queen Elizabeth I, coming to power after Mary’s death in 1558, sought to restore Protestantism by modifying some of its practices to mollify Catholics, however some similarities between Catholicism and Protestantism still remained. These remaining parts were enough to harden opposition to Catholicism among a sect of extreme Protestants, called Puritans. What happened next led us to one of the critical events in European history. Mary (another one), Queen of Scots, was a Catholic who was deposed by her own people. In leaving Scotland, she sought refuge with Elizabeth. However, because Mary was Catholic, she was imprisoned by Elizabeth and executed in 1587. In response, the pope instructed King Philip of Spain to invade England; because of the pope’s instruction, and because the English, Scottish and Irish had been aiding the Protestant Dutch in the Netherlands against Spanish rule, the Spanish Armada sailed the following year, 1588. The Spanish Armada, in attempting to attack and defeat the English, sailed back to Spain after having lost almost half its ships and control of the seas to the English and Dutch.

Ireland came under English rule during the Tudor dynasty. When Elizabeth I came to power, prior to the sailing of the Spanish Armada, she felt that Ireland without direct English rule was a threat to England. However, although she sought to establish regional councils in Ireland to moderate the tribal power in existence there, this was undermined by brutal attacks on the Irish by English explorers such as Sir Walter Raleigh. Elizabeth was threatened by the assistance the Irish had given to Spanish seamen, especially when Irish chiefs repelled an English army attempting to slaughter all Spaniards in Ulster. This defeat led to confiscation of lands and the English colonization of Ulster (Northern Ireland) and by 1590, the ruling family of Monaghan (Northern Ireland) had been removed from power by the crown. Further attempts at English colonization led to nine years of rebellion, during which much of Ulster was devastated, and the destruction of cattle and crops caused widespread famine.

After Julius Caesar had acquired Britain for the Roman Empire, Scottish tribes like the Picts posed a threat to the peace and stability of Brittania. The solution that the Romans arrived at was to construct a series of walls in the northern part of the country. The most famous of these, partly because it is still standing today, is called Hadrian's Wall, constructed in 122 AD built after a visit by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. From the time of the wall's construction Scotland remained independent from the British monarchy. During the Tudor dynasty, however, that all changed. The beginning of the unification of Scotland and England as Great Britain can be traced to the rise of James VI of Scotland to the English throne as James I in 1603. However, England and Scotland retained separate Parliaments under the united Crown. The flag of the United Kingdom still in use today was created at this time by superimposing the red cross of St. George, patron saint of England, upon the X-shaped white cross of St. Andrew, patron saint of Scotland.

What was known as "The Union of the Crowns" ended the rule of the House of Stewart in Scotland, and united England and Scotland under one king. It was slightly over 100 more years until each of the Parliaments of England and Scotland mutually agreed to pass what is known as The Acts of Union. This was a pair of Parliamentary Acts passed in 1707 by both Parliaments to put into effect the terms of the Treaty of Union that had been agreed in 1706, following negotiation between the two countries. The Acts joined the Kingdom of England and the Kingdom of Scotland (previously separate states, with separate legislatures but with the same monarch) into a single United Kingdom of Great Britain.

Ireland had been in personal union (rule by England merely to prevent Irish uprisings, a lesser degree of governance) with its first king, Henry VIII. This relationship existed between Ireland and the United Kingdom until the Act of Union (1801) was passed. Similar to the Act of Union which brought Scotland under British rule, this was a set of complementary Acts which merged the Kingdom of Great Britain and the Kingdom of Ireland to create the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. As a result, the red saltire (X-shaped cross) of St. Patrick was added to the flag of Great Britain.

By the middle of the 19th century, Ireland was a devastated land. Britain was in the midst of an industrial revolution, while Ireland had yet to develop an industrialized economy. The population was growing, and land was becoming more expensive, so agriculture was the last hope for many families to feed themselves. By 1841 the population was at 8 million, with two-thirds working in agriculture. It was common for a family to own a half-acre plot. The only thing that could be grown on a half-acre plot that could feed a family was the potato.

The unfortunate reality of potato farming in Ireland prior to that point is that the crop had been completely wiped out by disease several times before, giving way to famine and widespread poverty. In the mid 1840s, a potato virus was brought to Ireland from overseas (possibly the United States), and had devastated the crop for 4 consecutive years. At least 1 million Irish died, and another million left Ireland for America and Liverpool. The famine decreased the number of Protestants in Ireland and hastened the replacement of Gaelic, the language of the poor, with English. By 1851 the Irish population was 6.5 million, and many Irish were upset with how their government had handled the problem.

Home Rule in Ireland was essentially the legislative action that cleaved the Irish from British rule. Although Home Rule had gained political momentum over a few decades, global events interceded, preventing the Irish from achieving independence until after World War I. By the end of the war, two parliaments were envisioned in the Government of Ireland Act of 1920. The Articles of Agreement for a Treaty Between Great Britain and Ireland (the "Anglo-Irish Treaty") was signed on Dec. 6, 1921, creating the "Free Irish State". One of the main provisions of the treaty was as follows: "Northern Ireland shall not be subject to the rule of the Parliament and Government of the Free Irish State." Ireland as we know it today was free from British rule, however Northern Ireland remained under the monarchy.

Between the end of World War I and the start of World War II, Britain, like other European countries had taken a pacifist stance, and was simultaneously afflicted by the economic depression that had taken hold. As we've discussed here in our analysis of Spain and Italy, by the late 1930s, fascism was on the march in western Europe. In May of 1937, Stanley Baldwin was replaced as British Prime Minister by a former industrialist, postmaster general, and son of a statesman, Neville Chamberlain. By early 1938, Adolf Hitler had invaded Austria and positioned the German army for a move into the German-speaking region of Czechoslovakia. Britain had previously entered into treaties with European nations like Czechoslovakia, France and Poland, signifying British desire to protect such nations if attacked. Later that year, Chamberlain met with Hitler in Germany and the British PM agreed to give Hitler all that he wanted, requesting first permission to speak with French and Czech leaders. The French were unable to sway Chamberlain, and the United States was unwilling to enter the war at this point. Although Chamberlain was victorious in persuading British allies to agree to Hitler's request, Hitler occupied the entire nation of Czechoslovakia in direct repudiation of the agreement. As a result of this and other actions taken by the Germans, a declaration of war was made by Great Britain in September 1939.

Chamberlain was removed from office within a matter of months, and the statesman who took over as British Prime Minister would lead Britain through the end of the conflict: Winston Churchill. Churchill, in conjunction with Stalin, De Gaulle and Roosevelt prosecuted the Allied war effort against Germany, although diplomatic relations between the nations was sometimes unstable. After Hitler was defeated in May 1945, Churchill's party was subsequently defeated in August 1945 by the Labour Party. Churchill remained in Parliament as head of the Conservative (opposition) party, before he returned to power as Prime Minister in 1951.

After the end of the war, the Labour party had promised a series of social welfare reforms, and was attempting the nationalization of certain industries. Although they were able to push through a number of these reforms, the political momentum turned to inertia as the Conservatives were able to return to power on two separate occasions prior to 1980. The reality of Britain at this time was one of an empire in decline. It was trying to maintain multiple alliances like NATO, and by the mid 1970s, the British electorate had indicated by a 67% majority that it would like to remain a member of the recently joined European Community. The economy was in ruins and as a result of the flareup of conflict in Northern Ireland, tensions there persisted for a number of years.

In the last 20 years, the British have shifted from the Conservative party (Thacher, 1979-1990; Major, 1990-1997) to the Labour Party (Blair, 1997-2007; Brown, 2007-present). Each side has attempted to reduce the tension between Northern Ireland and Great Britain. The "Downing Street Declaration" that took place in 1993 between British Prime Minister John Major and Irish Prime Minister Albert Reynolds over the future of Northern Ireland suggested that undisclosed contacts had been maintained for some time between the Irish Republican Army (IRA), Sinn Feìn (political wing of the IRA), and the British government. The United Kingdom, under Tony Blair in 1998, and Ireland signed a peace agreement (Good Friday agreement) which led Ireland to amend language in its constitution, ultimately disclaiming Northern Ireland as its territory. In return, the United Kingdom promised to amend the Government of Ireland Act.

After the attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, Prime Minister Blair offered support for the global war on terror and specifically the March 2003 declaration of war on Iraq by the United States. His actions, however, were not without controversy: Blair acknowledged flawed intelligence as it related to Saddam Hussein's weapons of mass destruction, and also presided over the "Downing Street memo" controversy which summarized a secret July 2002 meeting among British intelligence, government, and defense leaders, at which there was a discussion about the fact that US efforts were made to deliberately falsify intelligence in order to remove Saddam Hussein from power.

Subsequent to Tony Blair's election to a third successive term (hitherto unprecedented in the Labour party) in May 2005, Britain was wracked by terrorism. Not only did a train bombing in London in July 2005 kill 52 people and injure 700, but later there was also discovery of a terrorist plot to take down 10 airplanes going from the UK to the US. As a result of Blair's questionable handling of the terrorist threat and foreign policy, he was forced to resign his position as of June 2007 and hand over the keys to 10 Downing Street to his successor and current British PM Gordon Brown.

Brown, prior to taking over for Blair, served directly under him as Chancellor of the Exchequer since 1997. In this position, Brown was responsible for economic and monetary matters, which is similar to the responsibilities held by the Minister of Finance or Secretary of the Treasury in other nations. In recent British history, the Chancellor of the Exchequer has been known as the second most powerful position in British government to the Prime Minister. The current global economic crisis is certainly a threat to the incumbent's ability to get re-elected, and with the next election only a year away (May 2010), Brown spoke directly to US Congress in early March, and clearly seeks a collaborative relationship with US President Obama through his actions at the more recent G-20 meeting.

Since World War II, Britain's role morphed from one of unquestionable empire to one that now seeks to build alliances with other global powers. Britain has had to deal with a declining influence in world affairs, domestic economic pressures, historical and constitutional challenges related to Northern Ireland, the global conflict against Islamic extremists, and more recently the global economic crisis in getting from where it was to where it is today. We will continue to pay attention as events in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland unfold, knowing that millennia of history have given the world a nation which understands the grave importance of a representative democracy and seeks to work with any nation that shows a willingness to build a more stable world.

April 09, 2009

Spain: Sprinting Towards Modernity

By Red Sox Steve


Each week, I'm taking a fresh look at a European country, trying to do what we do in all our endeavors here: provide data-driven analysis. Last week, we took a look at Italy, and I don't know about you but I learned a lot. World War II proved to be a major inflection point in the nation's 20th century history, giving the world the Italy we have today.

This week, I want to take a look at Spain. Spain is, in many ways, a very different country than it was even 40 years ago. Spain is also influenced by a religious movement that dates back centuries and is weighed down by a separatist movement that dates back millennia. Let's have a look at one, and then a look at another, before examining the Spain we know in 2009.

From about 750 until the time of the Crusades, Spain, as well as much of the world from North Africa, through Asia Minor to India and China was dominated by Islam. In the 7th century, the Muslims conquered Palestine, continued moving west, and didn't look back until Christianity forced Islam back to the east. Baghdad fell to the Mongols in 1258, which, along with many other contributing factors had contributed to the decline of Islam's widespread influence in the region.


What the spread of Islam fostered through that time, however, was the spread of modernity: Muslim scholars created the fields of optics, chemistry, and geography; a uniformity of law was spread through the region, and commerce was safely conducted from the Iberian peninsula, through northern Africa, and into central Asia. The spread of new ideas based on science rather than religion, reason rather than power, and freedom over feudalism would not be experienced again until centuries later.

The Crusades, along with changes in Islamic culture began to reduce Islam's influence in the region. By 1063, Pope Alexander II had given his blessing to Christian warriors pushing the Moors (Muslims) out of the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) and back to the east. By 1492, the last of the Muslim strongholds in Spain, Granada, had fallen, and the Kingdoms of Castile and Aragon were united to form the Kingdom of Spain.

Thousands of years ago, when the first humans had occupied continental Europe, a genetically and geographically isolated peoples occupied the land starting at the Bay of Biscay, and running east along the Pyrenees mountains. These people were known as the Basques. Looking at a map of Europe today, the Basques occupy provinces surrounding the Pyrenees mountains, in both Spain and France. They are largely maritime and agrarian, and have been attempting to maintain an independent society and form of government free of the rule of Spain and France for hundreds of years.

Basque society has been isolated from the outside world since, probably, the beginning :). Their language is Euskera, which bears no linguistic resemblance to any European languages, while their physiological disposition to Rh(neg) blood type is one that can only be genetically inherited in societies which essentially remain isolated from the outside world. These two characteristics are superficially applicable, at best, however, the Basques certainly believe that their own independence is best for them, and it is their desire for an independent nation, and the way they go about asserting it, which is a threat to the stability of Spain.


We've got to fast forward, however, to the 20th century, in order to flesh out the Spain we are living with in 2009. Alfonso XIII ruled Spain until the constitutional monarchy was supplanted by the military rule of Miguel Primo de Rivera in 1923. The government had lurched far to the right, but was bankrupted, which forced Alfonso XIII to abdicate the throne and Rivera to resign by 1931. From 1931 to 1936, Spanish rule swayed from left to right and back numerous times, ultimately giving way to the fascist dictatorship of Francisco Franco from 1936 until his death in 1975.


In 1937, while Spain was still in the midst of civil war, Franco's nationalist movement was able to conquer the Basque region. In April, Hitler's German air force bombed Guernika, a Basque city in the northern part of their region, and with the assistance of soldiers provided by Mussolini, Franco was able to take Bilbao the Basque capital, and Madrid. The after-effects of a brutal civil war and the oppressive rule of General Franco continue to plague Spain even today - many hundreds of thousands were killed, have gone missing, or were imprisoned, traumatizing generations of Spaniards. On Nov. 20, 1975, Generallisimo (caudillo, or, "strongman") Francisco Franco died, and King Juan Carlos appointed Prime Minister Adolfo Suárez to lead Spain into the democratic era which exists in Spain today.

In 1976, the first free elections since the beginning of the Franco era were held. The first democratic government was formed by the Union of the Democratic Centre (UDC), a coalition of parties from both the moderate left and right: liberals, social democrats, Christian democrats and conservatives. By 1978, a referendum was passed that approved a new constitution, decisively repealing many laws passed during the Franco regime. Suarez resigned in early 1981, and was replaced by Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo. Sotelo was, in spite of an attempted coup (partly due to Basque terrorist attacks) able to hold onto power from February 1981 until December 1982, when the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party (PSOE) led by Felipe González, came into power. The 1982 victory was overwhelming by Spanish standards - González stayed in power until 1996, providing Spain with its first steady, democratic rule in the post-Franco era.

When the UDC disintegrated after its loss in 1982, the opposition party moved farther to the right, forming the Popular Alliance (now the Popular Party, PP). One of its members, an inspector from Madrid whose father and grandfather was closely associated with General Franco, was elected to Parliament for the first time in 1982 - a 29 year old named Jose Maria Aznar. Aznar, denouncing Franco, and moving up the ranks of the PP since first holding office, was appointed head of the party in 1989. As a result of declining ability of PSOE to fend off scandal after scandal, and the momentum the PP had gained in prior elections, Aznar was elected Prime Minister in 1996, and remained in power until 2004.

The Basque movement against the Spanish government has been fierce and consistent. They have used military activities to assert their own independence and have been a constant threat to any foreign invader since the Crusades. In 1959, the Basques formed the Euzkadi Ta Azkatasuna (ETA, Basque for Basque Homeland and Freedom) which continues to carry out attacks on Spanish government officials and citizens to this day. After Franco's death, the Basques petitioned the new government for autonomy, and the first Basque parliament was elected in 1980. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, the Basques, through the ETA, have been a threat to the democratically elected government of Spain and its peoples. In 1979 a bomb was planted at the Madrid airport, killing scores of civilians; In 1980, 118 people were killed by terrorist attack; in 1981 the chief engineer of the Lemoniz nuclear power plant was kidnapped and subsequently murdered; In 1995 Jose Maria Aznar's armored car prevented him from being assassinated by an ETA bomb. The Basques, through fear and military-style attacks on civilians and political officials, threaten the stability of Spanish democracy today.


March 11, 2004: 4 trains approaching Madrid are simultaneously bombed by terrorists, killing over 200 people and injuring many others. The Aznar government, looking forward to re-election that same week, sought to blame the ETA for the bombing, capitalizing on its popular hard-line stance against the Basque movement. This proved ineffective, as the responsibility for the bombings actually lay with a group that had ties Al-Qaeda; it was also proven that the Aznar government (in seeking to align itself with the US led "war on terror") withheld information to the fact. Later that week, the incumbent Aznar was removed and succeeded by the socialist PSOE, led by José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero.

More recently, life has proven difficult for Zapatero and the PSOE. In May 2007, local council elections gave the Popular Party (PP) its first nationwide victory in seven years and ETA’s new political wing, Acción Nacionalista Vasca (ANV), won 7.4% of the Basque vote. In March 2008, the PSOE secured a majority over the PP but is still 7 seats shy of an absolute parliamentary majority. In October 2008, the Basque regional parliament sought to support a referendum on the right to self-determination, however Spain's Supreme Court ruled that such a referendum was unconstitutional in September 2008.

Spain is making a difficult transition from dictatorship to a democracy, while having to contend with groups that threaten to take the region backward. While it is clear that the Spanish people have repudiated any relationship with the global war on terror, it is difficult to measure the impact that the Basque movement has on Spain's political stability, but hard to deny there is an impact. What impresses me is that although it is one of the world's youngest democracies, it has quickly moved from a fascist dictatorship to a secular, representative democracy, while still having to contend with internal extremist movements that threaten the entire nation. Holding high expectations for Spain's role in the 21st century is justifiable, however we must recognize the extent to which these outside groups weigh down Spain's progress in concluding it has a long way to go toward's stability.








April 01, 2009

Italy: Turbulent? Yes. Authoritarian? No.

World War II was a significant event for many reasons: it marked the end of the United States' climb into the upper echelon of the world's powerful countries; the Iron Curtain came down, separating the Soviet Union and its nations from the West in the process; western Europe was in ruins - Britain had been fighting Hitler for over a decade, Germany and France were destroyed; and Italy saw a dictatorship born out of a monarchy come to an end, replaced by a parliamentary system and constitution still in place today.

It seems like there is turnover in Italy's government every few years. Because of the nature of the parliamentary system, a vote of no confidence within the two chambers of Parliament means that the serving prime minister must step down.

In 1994, Silvio Berlusconi, current Italian prime minister, first took office. A member of his coalition (Freedom Alliance) withdrew support for Berlusconi, so he was forced out early in 1995. His successor, , was forced to step down in 1996. Romano Prodi, head of the center-left l'Ulivo ("Olive Tree") party was elected prime minister while l'Ulivo moved into power. The coalition could not have accomplished this without the help of other center-left parties, namely the Democratic Party of the Left (PDS) and the Italian People's Party (PPI). Prodi stayed in power until a "no confidence" vote moved this group out of power in October 1998.

Here is the list of prime ministers holding office since 1998, and their political parties:

Massimo D'Alema (Democrats of the Left), until 2000
Giuliano Amato (Olive Tree, center-left), until 2001
Silvio Berlusconi (Forza Italia, center-right), until 2006
Romano Prodi (Democratic Party, center-left), until 2008
Silvio Berlusconi (People of Freedom, center-right), presently holds office

In a parliamentary system, presidents are responsible for the appointment of the prime minister (who must then be approved by the parliament). In Italy, presidents hold office for seven-year terms, with no term limits. The last two presidents have been Carlo Azeglio Ciampi (no party affiliation, held office from 1999 - 2006), and Giorgio Napolitano (Democrats of the Left, currently holds office until 2013). Since 1948, Italy has had 11 presidents, 24 prime ministers, and 38 separate prime ministerial terms!

Going back millennia, Italy was a collection of a large number of disparate and independent states. When Napoleon I came to power (1796-1814), he attempted to unify Italy's states into 4 distinct kingdoms, but after his defeat in 1815, Italy was again broken up, ruled by the Bourbons, Austrians and clergy. Fast forward to 1922. Italy, ruled by King Victor Emanuel III, had difficulty uniting the country, and appointed Benito Mussolini, giving him the title "Head of Government". Mussolini subsequently dismantled the parliamentary system in place at the time, and ruled Italy as a dictator until 1943. With the Allied victory during WWII, the king was forced to relinquish his power. He appointed Marshal Pietro Badoglio Prime Minister in 1943. By 1946, through a referendum, the monarchy was dissolved; a parliamentary system and constitution took its place, effective Jan. 1, 1948.